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I am trying to work the bugs out of my used vn750 that I just bought and I took it out for a quick run and shifted from third to first when I came to a stop and it went into neutral and it won't come out. I realize after reading this forum that I should down shift through all the gears before stopping but I need some advice on how to get it back into first gear, hopefully without having to dig to deep.Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jack
 

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Hi, Jack - Welcome! I know other folks will chime in to help out, but I'm guessing the problem is something simple, like a clutch cable in need of adjustment. The adjusting barrel is right up there by the pivot on the clutch lever - roll the barrel out (away from the lever) to take up slack; roll it in towards the lever to let a little out.
 

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thanks for the input. that was the first thing I tried. I adjusted it quite aways out and it did not seem to have any effect. Thanks again for the input though I'll take any advice.
 

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Looks like i better start digging in. The pawl is where i was going but it is good to know that it is a common occurance. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks guys
 

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Great job..
 

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Wtf?

Well ... I think I have become the latest victim of the pawl spring failure. :(
I was 3/4 of the way through a planned ride Saturday (beautiful day), when I was approaching a stop sign and geared down. I can not recal if I released the clutch between gears or not. I geared down to what should have been first, the bike was in neutral. I never got it to go in gear again. I had to call the wife, and have her bring the truck to load in onto and bring it home. Very frustrating.

Is there any improvement made by anyone on this assembly, or when I get it back together, am I always going to be wondering where I might get STRANDED next?

~~C8> Ratt :mad:
 

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I may have missed some, but most I've seen have been '92-'95 models with 20-25,000 miles on them. It seems a reasonable assumption therefore that this is the first replacement for them. With any luck, a replacement spring should hopefully be good for another 15 years/20,000 miles.
 

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O.k., so I opened up the cover with the oil sight glass in it, and took a look at the change lever spring. The spring was fine. It was compressed, and the pawl seemed to be stuck in a retracted position. The pawl retracts from the drum as the gear changer is returning to its normal position. The spring returns the pawl to the forward position so that it can engage the drum again. Problem is, I kinda wish it (the spring) had been broken. At least if it was broken, I could replace it with a new one, and figure on another 8K miles before breaking again. Then, I could just change it every three years or so. As it is now, I never know when the pawl is going to get stuck. bummer.

~~C8>
.
 

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Faulty does not necessarily mean broken. I have made that assumption a couple of times only to have wiser heads slap some sense into me...

Since your symptoms point to pawl spring problems documented by other riders, it would be the first place to start. It might set you back a few bucks, but even if it's not the problem, you won't have to worry about it going out in the near future.
 

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I agree with hrh. If you replace it now that you know, it will prob last longer. I thought I saw that this area was one of the things addresses in newer years. May be wrong. I know the tie rod was so maybe that's what I'm remembering. Plus if the pawl contact surface is worn it could be getting hung up. Were you able to get a good look at it? Good luck
 

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Faulty does not necessarily mean broken. I have made that assumption a couple of times only to have wiser heads slap some sense into me...

Since your symptoms point to pawl spring problems documented by other riders, it would be the first place to start. It might set you back a few bucks, but even if it's not the problem, you won't have to worry about it going out in the near future.
Yea, I'm definately going to get a new one. I have a long history of needing an occassional slap. I'm going to take heed this time. :loser1:

Mine was not broken. It was just not as springy as the new one.
Point taken.

I agree with hrh. If you replace it now that you know, it will prob last longer. I thought I saw that this area was one of the things addresses in newer years. May be wrong. I know the tie rod was so maybe that's what I'm remembering. Plus if the pawl contact surface is worn it could be getting hung up. Were you able to get a good look at it? Good luck
Yea, I think the '91 was the first year with the fatter tie rod.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bike rack, so I was doing the work on the floor. I could see that the spring was still in the proper location, but it was compressed and the pawl was retracted from the drum. I took a screw driver and pushed forward in the pawl until it snapped back to the forward position. I was surprised by the force required. I think the pawl assembly may be loose enough for the pawl to get in to a bind but not sure. It will just have to wait for an engine pull to get full attention I suppose.

Thanks for all the input guys. I would not have known exactly where to look if not for this forum. $15 bucks of greatful well spent as supporter (even though I could read it for free). :smiley_th
 

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Part number

What was the Part number for the spring so make sure to order the right piece i just recently had the same problem
 
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