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Discussion Starter #1
I was putting my rear tire on amd I loosened the right side rear shock for more clearance. As I retightened the top, it it felt like it stripped out. Now, turning the nut either way doesn't do anything. It simply rotates. I can't tell if it is the nut or the stud that is stripped.

HELP! What do I do now?
 

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They are typically chromed dome nuts.
When there aren't enough spacers(washers) on the stud, the stud bottoms out inside the nut and they strip either the stud or the nut or both.
Probably the best thing is to clamp a pair of vise grips firmly on the nut and pull hard while turning the nut counterclockwise.

*Edit: Clamp the vise grip pliers inline(parallel) with the stud so that you can make continuous revolutions while pulling on the nut.

Hopefully the remaining threads will engage and the nut will come off.
Hopefullly it's the nut that is stripped and you can replace it.
If so, be sure there are adequate spacers and tighten it just snug but don't over tighten.

If you get the nut off, smooth up burrs on the stud with a three cornered file before putting a new nut on. Remove as little material as possible.

The new nut doesn't have to be a dome nut. You can get the appropriate metric nut at an automotive parts store or hardware.
I'm not close to my bike so I don't know right off what size mm it is.
You could take off the left nut to match one.
 

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If you can't get the nut off, you may have to slice partway through the nut with an abrasive cutoff wheel, cutting parallel with the stud on two sides. Don't cut into the stud. Then try again with the vise grip pliers. The nut will collapse enough to reengaged the threads or might even peel off. Be sure to cover the bike everywhere. The spark metal will adhere to what ever it touches on the bike.


You could buy a 'nut splitter' and try that, too.
 

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If the stud is stripped, you can also just cut off the threaded part, drill and tap the rest of the stud for a 6mm bolt. Basically the nut and washer are there to just keep the shock from slipping off the stud, which doesn't require much force, as it really can't do that unless the bottom nut is missing too.
If your not sure what I mean, after you get the nut off, try pulling the shock off the stud.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If the stud is stripped, you can also just cut off the threaded part, drill and tap the rest of the stud for a 6mm bolt. Basically the nut and washer are there to just keep the shock from slipping off the stud, which doesn't require much force, as it really can't do that unless the bottom nut is missing too.
If your not sure what I mean, after you get the nut off, try pulling the shock off the stud.;)
Thanks!
As is, the nut is still compressing the lock washer.
This is after the threads were stripped AND one flat of the nut was ground down to the threads.

I also just saw the sticky post about a broken stud.
I often access the forums from my phone, and by default, the sticky posts don't show up.
 

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I like the shaft collar idea better. I wouldn't cut the stud. It can be repaired by welding on more metal, then grinding it round, and retapping the original sized threads on it. You may not want to do that now, but leaving the stud there would make it much easier to properly repair the frame later.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
With the help of one FAR more skilled than myself, he cut off the stripped portion and welded on a new threaded portion. The weight bearing portion of the stud was left intact, minus a 1/8" (1/4" deep) alignment hole in the center.

Thanks everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, the weld broke the first time I tightened the nut! We welded it again and it broke again. So we drilled it out and tapped it for a 5/16" fine thread bolt. I asked for metric, and nearly got thrown out of the shop....so.....standard it is!

Either way, this should hold. There are two spacer washers and the original lock washer holding the top of the shock on.

Thanks everyone!
 

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Hopefully it will hold. But the stud is weaker now because it is hollow from drilling it. It could fail from fatigue cracking later on, or from hitting a really hard bump. The Vulcan 750 frame is made of chromoly steel, and has to be welded properly. Rather than further damage the frame, I would have either used a clamp on collar in place of a nut, retapped the threads for a slightly smaller size, or even used a hose clamp if it was all I could get my hands on at the time. Another option would have been to have an expert drill though a nut and the stud, and then safety wire it. The shock does not come off easily, but I wouldn't have been so quick to cut something that might not be fixable. A real expert could have built the threaded part of the stud back up to the proper diameter, and retapped original size threads on it. I have seen this done on internal engine bolts. Done right it does not fail.
 
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