Where you said it would idle and rev fine but lose power when you let the clutch out. Were you able to get moving? That sounds like the kickstand switch if you couldn't get moving.Hey guys, hope this isn’t too long, but I’m going to drop in my notes from the past couple days. Currently the bike is a little outside of town and I’ve been troubleshooting an unknown issue. I’m running out of ideas, so hopefully this makes sense to someone.
Rode fine in twisties. Pulled into highway speeds, first time over third, and engine started overheating and losing power.
Then it would idle and rev fine but would return to no power after clutch lever let out.
A day later it will crank but rarely turn over. Spark plugs say the front cylinder is rich, rear looks okay. This should be because I degoated before this ride and the rear pipe is a lot shorter.
Spark plugs were wet when checked, engine flooded from starting all day. Oil res smells like gas.
I figured a roadside fix for the rich condition would be to chop the front pipe at the same length, so I did that instead of rejetting.
Next day will fire after oil change and cleaned plugs but very rough idle, max 15 sec.
Plugs have a little carbon buildup, but they’re the same and dry
(This is the bikes first big ride in months and first ride since degoat)
(earshave with uni filters, 40/42 no shims, riding at 5000ft plus)
Gas in the vacuum hose means a bad diaphragm in the petcock. It will leak gas into the throat of the carb, then gas will run into the cylinder and fill up the crankcase with gas., even when not running.I couldn't get moving, I thought it was maybe a failed kickstand switch but I think I was able to rule that out. Its definitely flooding, I'll check the vacuum line. If it has fuel in it what would that mean?
No, there shouldn't be any gas in the vacuum port. Though I'm not sure that's causing the running problem.Got the bike trailered back. vacuum line didn't have gas flowing through it or anything (petcock was left in off position if that matters). the side connected to the petcock was dry, but the carb side had some gas around it, and the brass fitting on the carb was wet too. cant remember if thats normal or not.
Much of the time, gentle tapping on the sides of the carb can free a stuck float.tried to start it the other day, no gas in vaccuum, but it floods really easily. stuck float makes sense, I'll try later this week, might pull them just to be sure
If your battery is weak, that could be the problem.I think there was a stuck float, after some tapping it doesn't flood anymore. It still doesn't start, holding open the throttle I can get a single pop. I'm getting spark but it might be weak, I'm not sure what to compare it to. I tried to swap out to some ngks but they didn't look any stronger. its been really nice weather recently so this is getting aggravating.
A lean mixture can also cause popping, is the choke working?AGM, had it on the tender, it was reading full charge
You've got pod filters right? Maybe give it a shot of gas or starting fluid into the intakes. After priming open the throttle about halfway and see if it fires up. Had to do that the first time I started mine.choke definitely has an effect, but it doesnt seem to help. I took some plug pics, but I didn't feel like it was super lean View attachment 55687 View attachment 55686
darker one is front cylinder, lighter is rear. I've been brushing them off a lot lately, any buildup is just from start attempts.
That's one of the way batteries fail, they'll charge up and have the volts but no amps, no capacity.Battery might be an issue now. After it was showing full charge I hooked it up and only got a click (just one). Grounds and connections feel pretty solid. I don't have a multimeter at the moment so not completely sure if its the solenoid or battery. I did take the battery out and put it back on the tender, it seems really strange that it is full charge then after trying to fire for a few seconds it shows as less than 80% charged.
Why would it drain so fast? Do I need to get a multimeter to check other options or just replace the battery? Its fairly new so that would kinda suck.
Rapid clicking is most likely a loose connection or the new battery is junk.Got the load test done a bit ago and the battery failed. (any reasons for this/how would I avoid it in the future, as its a relativley new battery) Anyway, a new one got hooked up and the sound changed from a single click to a rapid clicking. I figured it might be the solenoid, so I ordered a replacement. Got here today, installed it and the same rapid clicking. Guess that wasnt it, but now I have a spare...
got no clue what I'm looking at, where are problem areas to look? I've been trying to find some examples of this clicking.
Oops, I think I asked you that before, I've got the same battery from the same place on my ATV. It's still good though.DieHard, getting them at advance auto.
I'll check all that, get it load tested and if its done I can use the warranty
I read that AGMs carry a higher voltage. Last month mine still had 13.1 and my tender died a few years ago.When I ride it’s normally between 13.5 to 14.5 unless the fan kicks on. Ever since I had the new OEM stator put in my idle voltage readings have been stronger. It’s about 3 1/2 yrs since it was installed so I’m not too worried there. I’m just trying to decide if it’s worth taking this battery back. Like I said the bike started right up, I’ve read that AGM standing voltage can be a tick lower that LA batteries so I never thought about it much with the last battery, but this one has read even a little bit lower
If you supplied power from the car battery to the starter it should have cranked. So I would be thinking the starter is probably bad.glad to hear it mmart, everything still ok?
I took mine to advanced too, had a similar situation except mine didn't have enough juice to power the load test machine, thought this was odd since it showed full charge on the tender then I tried one start (just a click) before going to the store.
They charged it up for me and said it passed a load test. Took it home, same click, so decided to try something Jerry suggested in another thread. Hooked up some jumper cables to a car battery (kept the car off) and tried the jump start, no dice. Then did his suggestion, grounded on the engine and tapped the red to the starter. According to him it should turn over if the battery is bad. It didn't, just some sparks and pops. So that makes me think somethings up with the starter.
I guess I'll try to clean the connection there, theres a lot of oil around it from draining the filter a while ago, but does my logic make sense? Could it be the starter?
ok, it would have cranked with the bike ignition off right?
I'll order a rebuild kit and get going
Yes, if the ground on the car battery is connected to the bike and you touch the positive cable to the starter terminal, it should crank.ok, it would have cranked with the bike ignition off right?
I'll order a rebuild kit and get going
Getting me stumped now. Two good starters and can't make either one crank the engine.I am getting a click unsure from jb or solenoid.
jumping the solenoid does nothing.
I would have to look to be exact, but there should be another cable from a bolt on the engine to the frame.could be that, since the starter grounds through the engine. battery ground just cleaned and good. where is the engine ground?
