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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 93 vuclan, i am still having problems with carbs. the left side or rear carb cuts in and out when running in 5th gear around 4000 rpm ( 55-60 mph ) it clears up if i run full choke, so it is starving for fuel.stumbles if I give light throttle, responds good to hard throttle. also, the same carb backfires like a cannon on deceleration, shoots blue flame out of the pipe ( unless I have choke on ) I have coastered that side. But still backfires. I have v/h cruisers, bike ran good until i had the carbs rebuilt. i have seafoamed it 6 or 7 times, no help. i know i have babbled on, but I cannot find a vacum hose that goes to either ear? I found one on the rear carb that runs down by the battery. any advise? or does anyone know a GOOD mechanic in the Lakeland, Fl. area, or hey anyone want to buy a vulcan? :(
 

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HAWK
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Sounds like you got some crud plugging a jet.
HAve you tried to use Sea Foam? It is great stuff.
 

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I'd second Chad, 'cept it sounds like you've Seafoamed 'em to death, with no positive change. Funny how these things keep happening after someone's had his/her carbs rebuilt. Are you comfortable pullling 'em yourself? You may actually just need to hand-clean the jets.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have considered pulling them myself, i bought a haynes manual. I don't really know anything about carbs. I have taken it back to the shop that rebuilt the card several times, they don't have a clue. Is this something that a mediocre mechanic ( me ) should be able to do? and yes, I have seafoamed it to death !!
 

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I have considered pulling them myself, i bought a haynes manual. I don't really know anything about carbs. I have taken it back to the shop that rebuilt the card several times, they don't have a clue. Is this something that a mediocre mechanic ( me ) should be able to do? and yes, I have seafoamed it to death !!
"You can do it; we can help!" Absolutely, between the manual and the folks here, you can do just as well as the shop folks...certainly no worse, since the bike's not running right as it is. It really does sound like a plugged jet, but maybe a few more folks can weigh in before you start disassembling things. :hitanykey
 

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Check the boots between the carbs and cylinders. There are little nipples that stick up on both and they need to line up.
 

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Do u still have the air plenum? It makes it a little harder to see. The nipple sit in the middle and on top of the boots.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well, i'm gonna try to pull the carbs this week end. wish me luck and be prepared for a lot of questions !!!

Don, I don't mean to sound stupid, but i wasn't sure of what you where referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh boy, here we go. was on my way home yesterday, my bike started running REALLY crappy, worse than normal. stopped at a red light and she died. I hit the starter but... dead battery. the battery is about 8 months old. what next? could this be problem be associatted with the missing / cutting out in the rear carb.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Oh boy, here we go. was on my way home yesterday, my bike started running REALLY crappy, worse than normal. stopped at a red light and she died. I hit the starter but... dead battery. the battery is about 8 months old. what next? could this be problem be associatted with the missing / cutting out in the rear carb.
Do you know for sure if your headlight was working when it was running so bad?
Don't mean to alarm ya, but if not, it may be a bad stator.
Have you done a stator check lately?

Check all the battery connections first. A loose one could easily cause the battery not to get a good charge.

And yes, the air plenum is the airbox (under the gastank)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hyper,

you know, I never associated the two together, bur I noticed about 2 weeks ago, my headlight was working intermitley. I'm not sure how long this had been going on. Today, I checked the voltage at the battery, after a full charge, it was at 14.0, checked while running at 2500 rpms it was at 12.2 and dropping. I don't know how to check the stator or the voltage regulator. let me guess, a stator is expensive? My wife is gonna shoot me over this bike !!
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Here's how to check the stator:

To check the ohms between each yellow stator wire to the others....

Disconnect the 3 yellow wires going from the stator to the R/R, at the bullet connections.
(don't worry, they aren't in any order and can be reconnected in any order)

Use a digital volt meter set to ohms. you should get between .4 to .6 ohms.
check wire 1 to 2, wire 1 to 3 and wire 2 to 3.
Mine was reading .5 between two of them, but .3 on the other.


I'm not too sure on the regulator test. Some here have recently said they get strange results when trying to check it with a meter other than a Kawasaki one??

A stator from RICK'S (reportedly better than stock. It's the one I got, as have many others) will run ya $140. It's part# 21-203
Then there's several gaskets, oil, and coolant.

I had a shop do mine. I supplied all parts and materials (except coolant). Their labor was $380, which is pretty cheap.
Many have said it can run up to $600 or more (which is what I was first quoted...$550-$600)
It's so expensive because the engine needs to be pulled (or atleast tilted) to get the stator out.
The designer of this bike, I can guarantee, never worked on changing the stator!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hyoer,

Thanks for the information, i am hopefully going to check it this afternoon.

will let you know the readings

jerry
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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I should've mentioned, sometimes, if the bike isn't warmed up to operating temps, you could get good readings, but once it is warmed up, things could then show up differently.

There are a couple other stator checks, but right now I'm not positive on the proceedures.
But I do remember, when checking volts out of the stator, they are AC volts, not DC.
 

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Hyper,

you know, I never associated the two together, bur I noticed about 2 weeks ago, my headlight was working intermitley. I'm not sure how long this had been going on. Today, I checked the voltage at the battery, after a full charge, it was at 14.0, checked while running at 2500 rpms it was at 12.2 and dropping. I don't know how to check the stator or the voltage regulator. let me guess, a stator is expensive? My wife is gonna shoot me over this bike !!
I had those same readings ,I replaced the RR and the battery and all was good. Not sure which was the problem.
I have the RR if you want to try it,may be good. From my 2005.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hello all,

well, I checked the stator at the bullit plugs. 2 of them showed .5 and the 3rd just bounced all over the place. could not get a reading on it. any other tests that I can do?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok, i'm back on track, changed the r/r ( Thanks Spriddle !!!! ) she's now putting out 14.2 at the terminals. Unfortunately, still missing on rear carb.

when I removed the old r/r, the end of the r/r plug had a melted spot cleaned it up and install new one.

now, if it will just cool off enough to work outside for more that 5 mins at a time. ( central Florida )

my neighbor is well versed in dirt bikes, but has offered to assist on r&ring the carbs

wish me luck !!!
 
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