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Discussion Starter #1
First off, is there a secret to searching these forums? Usually surrounding things in quotes works to search for an exact phrase, but here I always get each term. So "steering lock" gives me everything with steering and lock.. Anyways.

The problem: I recently discovered the steering lock feature but when I push in the ignition and turn right the flipping rear (red) running light comes on. This cannot be correct. Whats going on here? Also, is there a trick to unlocking the steering lock? Its stuck or something. :(
 

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I was stumped by this at first also. You are using the accessory position of the ignition switch. If you turn the key all the way to left the it will lock the bars with no lights lit up. Not sure why Kaw thought this was a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was stumped by this at first also. You are using the accessory position of the ignition switch. If you turn the key all the way to left the it will lock the bars with no lights lit up. Not sure why Kaw thought this was a good idea.
Haha, wow I feel like a moron. Might my key being a copy of a copy of a copy have something to do with why I cant get it to unlock?
 

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You have the key in park position. The tailight is supposed to be on. Turn the handlebars to the left as far as they will go, push the key in and turn it counterclockwise to the lock position, which is past the park position.
Jim
 

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....... Not sure why Kaw thought this was a good idea.
Because some time you might want to pull off the road...at night ....and turn the motor off....and want cars to see you.

They call this the "parking" position...your headlight goes off but the other lights stay on....and do warn not to leave the bike like this for any extended period....as it will drain the battery.

KM
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any trick to unlock it? Ignition will not turn counterclockwise (from the park position).
 

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Put the bike on the center stand. Turn handlebars all the way to the left. Try key. If it doesn't turn, turn the handlebars inward a little. Keep moving the bars until it unlocks. Works on my bike.
Jim
 

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A problem with the key being a copy of a copy of a copy is a distinct possibility. With the keys that came with my truck, the run, start, off, and lock positions were pretty reliable, if a little fussy, but I could only get it into accessory about 10% of the time. Went to a dealership and had them cut a (Fortunately un-chipped) key from the VIN and it works just the way it's supposed to.

I'm sure it was your first reaction, but just in case, try the following while attempting to turn the key back and forth: Pushing the key into the ignition, pulling on it out just a hair, pushing the head to each side, jiggling the key back and forth, anything that might get the pins to line up just enough differently. A little 3-in-1 oil or similar into the cylinder might not hurt either.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Anyone have an idea of which part of the key operates the locking portion of the ignition? Its still stuck in park and ive done every jiggle and shake possible. I was told by 3 dealers here that a key cannot be cut from the VIN. They priced me a new lock set at like $200 bones =O. Ill hotwire it before I pay that much.
 

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I have a bit of trouble with my key once in a while, mostly when the steering is locked too. Sometimes, I gotta press the key so that the cylinder itself goes down a bit... not sure if I'm making it clear, but just try pushing down on the key and you'll see what I mean, it actually goes down with the cylinder. Anyway, sometimes I gotta push it down, sometimes I also gotta jiggle it while pushing down.

When it's not in the lock position I don't have to push down, I just twist it.
 

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The dealers are full of it! If you can remove the ignition, the key code (letter followed by four numbers on mine) is on it. With that and the correct blank, a good locksmith should be able to cut you a new "original" key. Write down the key code where you can find it and have several copies made of the original. Keep the original in a safe place, and use the copies.
 

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The dealers are full of it! If you can remove the ignition, the key code (letter followed by four numbers on mine) is on it. With that and the correct blank, a good locksmith should be able to cut you a new "original" key. Write down the key code where you can find it and have several copies made of the original. Keep the original in a safe place, and use the copies.
Another suggestion-- It is much easier to remove a helmet lock. You should find the key code on the bottom of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
While trying to drill out the helmet lock bolt (its stripped), the drill bit broke and the broken end rammed through my thumbnail right at the cuticle. It went in about .5". So much pain right now :(.
 

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While trying to drill out the helmet lock bolt (its stripped), the drill bit broke and the broken end rammed through my thumbnail right at the cuticle. It went in about .5". So much pain right now :(.
Sorry about your misfortune. Hope you feel better. How about the lock on the other side?
Jim
 

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It would appear your dealer is out of line. Part number is 27005-5052, retail is $92.85, Ron Ayers has it for $75.21 plus shipping.

You might be able to find someone who had the opposite failure. The electronic part of the switch comes off with two screws, but Kawasaki only sells the entire assembly, so those who fail the electronic part of the switch and choose to replace it, if they don't want a mis-matched set of keys, can retrofit the old lock cylinder on the new electronics and be left with an oddball lock cylinder and key taking up space.

If you can find someone who can make a factory-style key for it somehow, of course, that would be the gold standard.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update (one handed while soaking in epsom salt). I got the ignition lock apart and indeed my key is screwed up. One of the areas is overcut. I am going to get a couple blanks from ace hardware ($2.50 ea!) and I think I can cut my own key using the ignition. Ill post how well this works. The ignition should be master right?
 

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Yeah, ignition should be the master. I haven't independently verified it, but someone once said the others don't use all the pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update for completeness:

Instead of mucking with making a key I just took out the wafer that was causing me trouble. When rebuilding the lock I used sonic weld (epoxy/steel putty) to fill the holes where the dowel pins went. The only way I could figure getting those out was to drill them, which is where my drilled finger mishap occured. :) The fork locks work really well now.

Thanks for all the posts and advice.
 
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