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Discussion Starter #1
This question may have been addressed many many times but I couldn't find a thread with it.

The stator is a rick's rebuild 6yrs old and the r/r (aftermarket and can't remember brand) is about 4yrs old. Only about 15k on the stator and less on r/r and degoated before new r/r. The battery 2yrs old is not an MF (wish I knew to get a MF before buying it) but is fully charged and tested good 12.5v+/-.

The stator test great when first starting the bike. 13.4v+/- at idle and goes to 14v+/- at 4k but after the bike is to temp or to the point of the fan coming on it tests at around 13v and bellow. I know the fan being on will decrease volts but didn't think that much. Just tell me if I am being too inquisitive. I will test my 01' tomorrow to see if I get the same results.
 

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Now what
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My stator was defective right from the factory. It was odd in that it tested ok when cold, but failed when hot. I assume you're at a stop and the bike's idling when the fan comes on. It takes my bike a half minute or so of riding after the stop to recharge the battery and get the voltage back up. Does your voltage stay low, or is just low for a while after you're back up to speed?
 

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The stator may short to ground or a winding may be partially shorted only when the stator is hot. Do the resistance measurements when it is hot.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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I had a problem where my volts seemed to vary a lot. One nite at work I had to jump the bike off to start it. The next day I cleaned my battery connections and the ground connection, now the volts are a lot higher than they had ever been.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My stator was defective right from the factory. It was odd in that it tested ok when cold, but failed when hot. I assume you're at a stop and the bike's idling when the fan comes on. It takes my bike a half minute or so of riding after the stop to recharge the battery and get the voltage back up. Does your voltage stay low, or is just low for a while after you're back up to speed?
Yes I'm setting at idle when fan kicks on. It doesn't seem to be a big problem because the battery stays charged so I may be just over thinking it. Going to clean all the connections today and tackle more problems that have been overlooked far too long.

Which leads me to the next questions. Where can I get a carb rebuild kit fairly cheap. Not going to rejet them just rebuild. Also...Should I use brass feeler gauges to set the pick-up coils?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How about a gasket kit for the carbs? Probably a dealer item if they still stock them?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok I got it figured out!

Tested the 01' (pro of having 2 identical bikes) and it tested the same as my 93'. As I see it when you 1st start the bike the battery has lost a little charge from sitting over night so the stator and r/r have to work to recharge the battery. When the battery hits full charge the stator and r/r don't have to work so hard to maintain it Hence why the voltage drops after warming up and when the fan kicks on and so does the charging system and the volts go up. Not rocket science but I feel smart now. lol

I did this test with a Shumacher battery charger that test battery charge/volts, voltage output, and alternator output.
 

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From my last thread about agm batteries i think we determined the stator works hard regardless of battery state. It just keeps putting out juice according to rpm. The R/R dumps the excess to ground, with that question of how much heat is generated in the R/R while shunting as opposed to flowing to a battery that needs it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for deflating my bubble dude. lol J/K I remember that convo. :rolleyes:
 

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Columbus, Ohio
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This might be too obvious, but have you relocated your R/R to a cooler spot?
 

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Yes I'm setting at idle when fan kicks on. It doesn't seem to be a big problem because the battery stays charged so I may be just over thinking it. Going to clean all the connections today and tackle more problems that have been overlooked far too long.

Which leads me to the next questions. Where can I get a carb rebuild kit fairly cheap. Not going to rejet them just rebuild. Also...Should I use brass feeler gauges to set the pick-up coils?
I know I have read to use a brass feeler gauge to set the the pick-up coils. I was looking for one just a couple of days ago but could only find a steel set with one brass blade of 0.010". I`m not sure where to find a brass set or a single blade of 0.018" or 0.020" to set the coils.

I don`t think there are any gaskets in the vn750 carbs.
It uses all O-rings, and you have to order them all separately too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
This might be too obvious, but have you relocated your R/R to a cooler spot?
The r/r is not relocated but it is degoated so that's not an issue. I am certain having now testing my 01' and it tested identical to my 93' that all is well in charging land. I was just being overly concerned before doing all the tests.

Hoss; Using brass feeler guages is better where the pick-up coils are magnetized and some say it is better to use brass. If you have a .010 cut it in half length wise and viola it's .020 when doubled up. lol

I think the carb work will take place this winter. Unless there is snow. Thats when my snowmobiles come out!!! Now those carbs and engines are real easy to work on. It's great having toys for all seasons though. hehe
 
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