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Discussion Starter #1
Hope someone out there knows the answer.

Here's the problem.

The bike left me broke down on the side of the road with no warning. Once I got it home I discovered that 2 of the yellow wires from the stator where fused together before the RR and that the connector to the RR was melted and full of corrosion. (New MF battery on the way). The current battery is fully charged and holding at 12.50.

I replaced the wiring (all 12 guage)from the stator and cutout the bad connector and wired it direct to the RR (my RR has about a 5 inch pigtail on it).Don't thing it is original.

Bike shows 13.56 volts at the battery when running and about 12.60 when hot and the fans running. During the testing I noticed that the wiring from the RR (newly relocated during all of the re-wiring) became very hot. First starting with the white wire and then the 3 yellow wires going to the stator. I believe this is what started all of the problems.

I performed the stator test located at

http://vn750.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-625.html

and passed except that the voltages where all not identical.

One was 13.50
Two was 10.50
Third was about 3.80

I don't think this is normal. But the bike is still charging at 13.50 during idle. My concern is why is the wiring at the RR getting so hot. I have looked for any shorts and open connections and found none.

Is my stator gone or going or is this just the design of the electrical system?

I don't have any think extra hooked up to cause this amount of heat to the electrical system.

I am not sure on how to test the RR.

Thanks to all who has any ideas.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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6,141 Posts
The R&R does get mighty hot while the bike is running. When you rewire it, it's best not to have the wires bundled up together. Be sure to leave room between them. That way, if something does happen, they wont short each other out.
As far as the voltage readings, I can't be of much help there.
Maybe one of our resident EE's can give some input there.
 

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Once Banned
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I can't tell without looking at the chart. But, I can tell you to get a new r/r SOON. The melting wire insulation is due to the regulator "shorting out" - and soon it will take the stator with it. The stator is a passive device - it's just a bunch of copper that sits there doing nothing, until the ends of the wires are hooked to a load. Then current starts to flow. As the load approaches a short, more current flows. Because of the thin wires coming from the stator, there is too much resistance for a lot of current, and the result is heat, which melts the insulation.

So, GET A NEW R/R!

Or else you'll end up like me, except you found this site first, whereas I found it after a new stator.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks cegodsey,

I agree will the replacement of the RR, but could the shorted RR cause the uneven voltages from stator or is the stator also fried?

Also where can I get an RR with a pigtail on it since my connector has been fried (melted, toast, a big plastic glob). Currently I have bypassed the connector and would need an RR with some sort of pigtail to connect my wiring to.

Again thanks to all.
 

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HAWK
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You said there was corosion on the wires, that would be a place to create heat. There is resistance due to the corosion. Also don't tape the wires together, move the R/R to a cooler place. That was one of the way stators go is do the wires shorting out. I hope you got it soon enough, if your readings are in spec then you should be ok.
 

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jobrien said:
Thanks cegodsey,

I agree will the replacement of the RR, but could the shorted RR cause the uneven voltages from stator or is the stator also fried?

Also where can I get an RR with a pigtail on it since my connector has been fried (melted, toast, a big plastic glob). Currently I have bypassed the connector and would need an RR with some sort of pigtail to connect my wiring to.

Again thanks to all.
Like Chad said, hope you got it in time. What you might do for grits and shins, is yank the stator wires from the r/r and check the voltages between the yellow wires, with the engine running. You may need an extra set of hands to do this. Rev the engine, and check the voltages at different rpms. If at high rpms you are getting around 60V (AC), then you are OK.

As to the pigtail - I have seen a warner-jorgensen r/r that had a pigtail coming from it. As to where you get such a beast, ?? You might take the melted end down to an electric supply shop and see if they got something like it. I wish I had made a bookmark of the internet page I found that had about every connector end that you would ever want - so I know you can get such a beast.
 

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stator testing hot

not good,
here is what the Clymer manual for VN750 1985-2002 says

check wiring first (like you did)

stator testing

warm the bike to operating temperature (some readings change with temperature)
turn the bike off
disconnect the three yellow stator wires
*use an ohmmetter on Rx1 (low resistance)
+measure between each of the stator wires wire 1 to 2 then 2 to 3 and 3 to 1
+get the 3 readings they should be between 0.34 to 0.52 ohms if open the stator or internal connection is bad
+measure from ground to each of the three stator leads
+get 3 readings open circuit if shorted or low resistance then stator or internal wiring shorted.

Rog
 

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from the readings you supplied

the three readings you supplied shows one leg low and you will probably find one leg shorted to ground. Sometimes these shorts are intermittent and wire movement affects them. Might even be pinched in a cover by the stator.
That one cover with 3 screws is an inspection cover for the stator (left side of bike , follow wires to case).

rog
 

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Once Banned
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If I had followed the link, I would have seen it said what I just said. Duh. I assume that your voltages were at idle. Yeah, you already have some stator damage. Make sure when you get the r/r that you get a volt gauge so you won't get stranded somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all,

The voltages where taken with the engine warm. and from before they enter the RR after I had removed and corrected any bad wiring and connectors that I found.

I have not traced the stator wiring all the way back to the stator , just what could be found under and around the side cover//RR area. I have removed the bad connectors and wiring and will wait until my new RR arrives to see what happens next.

I believe that stator my be damaged but I don't think it is dead yet. Could a damaged stator kill the new RR?

I have found another RR with a pigtail from www.electrosport.com.

thanks again all.
 

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Once Banned
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Nope, a damaged stator won't hurt the r/r. But like I said, make sure you have some sort of voltage gauge on the bike in case the rest of the stator goes out.
 

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From the voltage reading you are getting it may seem like the stator is bad... you should try checking the stator voltages with the R/R disconected, if the R/R is shorted then that would explain why it's getting so hot and you're getting so different voltage readings form the stator wires. You should be able to run the engine for a few minutes with the R/R disconected without any problems and see what voltages you are reading form the stator wires. They should be somewhat higher of your original readings (no load) but they should be more or less even across the three wires. If this is true then most likely one of the three phases in the R/R is shorted and should be replaced before it ruins the stator.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The voltages were taken with the bad R/R removed from the bike and laying in my neighbors sink hole. Sometimes a little anger does help.

Now for the latest update. I have installed a new R/R, new MF battery and volt meter (thanks to all for the ideas). I am getting about 13.9 volts at the battery when running anything above 30 mph. I am getting 12.7 when setting at a light (drops to 12.4 - 12.2 with the fans running on hot day). I have found no other wiring issues going to the stator, so if it is shorted or crimped somewhere on the one low leg that is low, it is inside the engine on the one conductor that can't be seen by removing the side cover to the engine. The one low leg is not grounded to anything I can find with a fluke MM.

Now for the one issue still left. It appears now that my tach will start to jump around (not steady with engine RPM) after about 30 mins of riding. The voltages stay the same and performance does NOT appear to be affected. The bike did this before but adding water to the old battery would cure it for a couple weeks.

I am open to any ideas now with a MF battery and no water to add. Could somebody post or tell me where to get the wiring diagram for a 91 vulcan ( cegodsey ).

I believe the stator my be hurt but not dead but don't believe it could be causing the tach problems now.

Again much thanks to everyone.
 

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Growling at the World...
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jobrien said:
Thanks cegodsey,

I agree will the replacement of the RR, but could the shorted RR cause the uneven voltages from stator or is the stator also fried?

Also where can I get an RR with a pigtail on it since my connector has been fried (melted, toast, a big plastic glob). Currently I have bypassed the connector and would need an RR with some sort of pigtail to connect my wiring to.

Again thanks to all.
Replace the RR first and then measure the voltage. The stator produces AC current in the range of 50VAC to 70VAC depending on the RPM's of the rotor going around the stator. The RR knocks off the negative wave on the AC current making it DC current and then regulates it to around 14.7VDC

Electrex at one time made RR's with pigtails for the VN750, but doesn't make them anymore. I have a few pigtails, but they WILL NOT lock into the stator. I'm not even sure I trust them for the VN750 regulator.
 

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Um, i would say ronayers.com, but it appears that they have taken off the kawasaki service manual. I've got the copy of the service manual and accompanying microfiche, but it's 112 MB so I can't email it to anyone. lemme see if yahoo has it.
 

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Damn yahoo. I can't find anything on that site. I guess you'll have to buy a shop manual.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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The wire diagrams at Y! are HERE.
If you're not a member there, you'll have to join before you can get to the files.
 
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