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Dirt to road
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Discussion Starter #1
About a year ago my stator burned up so i replaced it and did the tuxedo mod, below is a picture of when i did it last july.

After i replaced it i rode it a total of about 4k miles from july to October and then this may till july. I started having performance issues on my way back home on a 2 hour road trip. When i stopped to get gas and it didnt want to start back up. Instantly i thought it was the stator but i just replaced it, so i tested it and the stator was grounding to the frame. After pulling off the cover and tux mod i found this.

Some nasty grooves, metal flakes in the drain plug filter and my stator was chewed up. What might have caused this? It ran fine for awhile and then something happened. Any ideas? Something shifting? Also do yall think ill have to change out the rotor?... i have a stator replacement already but i obviously dont wanna throw it in there if something is shifted. One of my pickup pulser coils wire got ripped out somehow

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
Did you feel vibration get worse over time? Wondering if balance dampers failed and allowed an abnormal amount of movement of the rotor, allowing it contact the stator.

Could also be an incorrectly made/aligned stator mod plate.
 

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Dirt to road
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Discussion Starter #5
Did you feel vibration get worse over time? Wondering if balance dampers failed and allowed an abnormal amount of movement of the rotor, allowing it contact the stator.

Could also be an incorrectly made/aligned stator mod plate.
Nothin outta the ordinary. I mean riding in michigan is like riding through a mine field cause the roads are terrible. But nope, didnt feel any weird vibrations. All the bolts were tight as could be so nothing was lose. It worked fine for 4k miles, im dumbfounded atm. Do you think ill need a new roter?

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Have seen a couple of wobbly rotors on here. Spin the crank and watch the rotor.

Other than that, the stator shifting on the tux plate. Did you unbolt the stator and plate and check those bolts?

Is that all metal on the screen or is there rubber mixed in?
 

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Dirt to road
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Discussion Starter #7
Have seen a couple of wobbly rotors on here. Spin the crank and watch the rotor.

Other than that, the stator shifting on the tux plate. Did you unbolt the stator and plate and check those bolts?

Is that all metal on the screen or is there rubber mixed in?
Ill check for wobble. It was metal and gasket marker. Its flakes from when i cut it for the mod.. i think.

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Did you remove the motor and pull the side case when you did the stator mod?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I remember last year there was a thread on here about whether or not it was a good idea to do a tuxedo mod without dropping the engine to pull the sidecase.with all the shavings that are created...can't be good for the inside of a motor with all those tight clearances...
 
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Those are nasty grooves. Are the metal filings steel (use a magnet)? The inside of the rotor seems to appear to be worn more on one side, as opposed to evenly around the whole thing. Is that true? If so I would suspect the tuxedo plate is not drilled properly or perhaps the bearing behind the rotor is failing. Since aluminum is softer than steel I would not expect shavings to have caused that kind of damage. But I would not do the mod without removing the case either. Ther are only so many places steel can come from in these engines.
 

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Not sure why, I know it's possible to warp them by prying/hammering or not using the correct puller. Other than that, defect warping due to heat?

Be sure to re-check everything when you get another rotor.

Did you rotate the crank with the rotor removed yet? Make sure the crank snout isn't weebly. (not too likely)

Ebay or here for the rotor? I'd hate to price a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
New rotor is $500... not really sure if its worth it. I bought the bike a year ago for 1300 but i would never make my money back.

I have not bought any parts yet but i decided that its almost the end of riding season so im parking it and started to take the engine out, i decided to aleast look at what might be the issue. Being a college student that has no money im not to enthusiastic about this. Any advice? Lol

I pulled most of the stuff off the bike today but not sure whats next, also when i removed the coolant drain plug at the bottom of the case nothing came out? But there was plenty of coolant when i took everything else off. Why did nothing come out? Is that a sign my engine could have over heated?

Also if anyone is parting out a bike i want your stator rotor!

If anyone has a step by step engine removal process i would appreciate it.

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Any year will work. All years interchange for most parts, except earlier years used a square master cylinder, later years have a round one.
 

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If you rode 4k miles with that metal in your engine the rotor is the least of your worries. When you cut the bike off it all floats around on bottom and shifts, then shoots through the oil lines through everything. I'd bet there is more going on than just what you see. There needs to be some REAL inspection of this engine.
 

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if anyone is parting out a bike i want your stator rotor!

If anyone has a step by step engine removal process i would appreciate it.
Just had to do this over the past couple months. I figure if you did the tuxedo mod yourself, you know how to take out the engine. But if you were one of those who half-assed the job and kept motor in, there's multiple ways you can go about this, and the way I choose allowed me to catch up on alot of much need lubing maintenance on the drive shaft.

First step of course was to remove the seat, gas tank, exhaust pipes, rear foot pegs, radiator, shocks, rear wheel and swingarm(easy to pull out, but one son of a bitch to reinstall).
The parts that stump you is gonna be removing the singarm plugs and getting the necessary clearance to roate the engine for the shifter spindle to clear the frame

The trick to the swing arm plugs is to find a bolt that fits in the outlet, and pry it out with a claw hammer using the frame as leverage.

Now behind dismounting the engine, of course you you remove the three primary mounting bolts and front frame/engine brace along with the right side subframe.

Using this method you won't have to remove the gear box, which is one most gasket you don't need to purchase. This also gives you the opportunity to to replace the inevitable rear tire and sufficiently lube up all connection between the drive shaft, which seems to be a real problem straight from the factory. I made the mistake of possibly using too little red high temp moly grease by lucas, but I'm due for a tire replacement soon anyways, so I'll get away with for now.

Using an automotive hydraulic jack, push upwards from the front underside of the engine but before the starter, and using prybars or soft gripped hammers, if you care for your frame's finish, to push the engine upwards in a forward direction(easier without the surge tank of course, and actually lift the frame of the bike to the left because at this point it's lighter and less delicate than the engine, then pro the rear portion of the engine up with a stack of bricks and a2x4 on top to keep the pretty finish.

This is of course much easier and sometimes seems almost impossible without a spare set of hands(just don't let them think they know what they're doing and take the lead), but I was able to reassemble and do most of the work myself.

The electronic re-connections in the end is what did me in and made my replacement a somewhat failure to be worked on. I also didn't write anything down as I was doing it and reassembled from memory and wound up with alot of spare washers :frown2:
 

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O P did you ever figure out why this happened?

My stator mod did the exact same thing.

I have engine out and am currently replacing all parts with oem and starting over.

no idea why my rotor was gouged!

plate, housing, and stator were bolted tightly together

custom gasket made

plate was bought and machined from gcecustom or whatever his name was, I forgot.

followed all instructions.

the only difference is I didn't have metal shaving in my screen at all. and I changed the oil 2 or three times immediately after the procedure.

not that it matters at this point, but if you ever figure it out let me know what happened. This mod seems like a great idea.
 

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Tuxedo Mod

I have some input in this subject. I also performed the Tuxedo Mod ...and I screwed up and tried to cut the casing while on the bike. It made a horrible mess inside the engine...I have been removing metal shavings and dust for months. The Tuxedo Mod is a great thing... but I suggest removing the engine (or at least tilting the engine) to allow access to the side cover bolts. Then you can remove the side cover and perform the tuxedo mod. This would also be a great time to replace the damaged damaged stator magneto. These things are easily available on EBay and relatively cheap.

As far as the mod itself. I had to do mine twice because of the same issue you just had with yours. I will tell you this: Using BLUE LOCKTITE on the screws and bolts connecting to the stator. Don't over torque the screws but snug them up nicely. let the Locktite dry and cure thoroughly (a full day) before adding any type of oil to the crankcase. Your patience will be worth it. Nothing will vibrate loose and shift.
 
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