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Discussion Starter #1
I want to rewind my stator and only found general wiring procedure for 3 phase stators on the net. Does anyone have a step by step procedure with pictures that I can follow? I am not sure if it matters what direction each pole gets wound but would appreciate anyone's insight into this process. I plan to use 18 gauge enamaled magnetic wire with 200 centigrade degree temperature tolerance. I am aware this is considered cheap wire but it's worth a try. Hopefully my mosfet regulator will help keep it from frying.
 

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Dr. Vulcanstein
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I have not done this myself, gloryrider has a thread on this that isn't very old that you can search and read through. I don't suggest cheaping out on the wire though, all that time and work to end up where you are now again won't be fun, jmo.
 

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Super Moderator
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I agree with slim and jada on this one..

while I have not rewound a stator, I have had my fair share of winding of various electrical components..

the ONLY reason I would do it is to say I did...

and to be honest, without the proper winding machinery, I would expect lots of failures during the process (broken insulation, mis-counts on the poles, ect.) not to mention keeping proper tension is a real pain in the south bound end of a north bound mule...

There is more to think of than just the temp rating of the insulation as well.. it has to be capable of withstanding the harsh environment of hot oil, as well as vibration.
 

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Check out the link in my signature... it's not easy to do, but definitely a learning experience!

There's pictures of the tension rig I made which helps a ton!

Oh, and DON'T use heat shrink for the insulation... it doesn't hold up to the temperature!

Feel free to give me a call if you have any other specific questions I can help with! :)

-- Matt
678-577-7606
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i appreciate the feedback. I already have concluded that nearly all the after market stators have a very good chance of failure in shorter time than I desire, but have been using rick's stator until i rewind my own. This stator is not keeping up with demand at idle but seems to keep the system charged and the bike running well. I doubt this stator will hold up and and expecting failure at some not to distant point in time, hence my strong desire to try this. I will post my results.
 

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Sparky!!!
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TPE is the only stator to use... Tim's stators are at least 20% more efficient than stock, and have warranty. Combined this with a 50Amp MOFSET R/R and you will have more than enough juice to power anything you want.
I am the kind of guy who likes to do every thing my self, and rebuild anything that can be rebuilt.. But there is one thing on our bike I wont rebuild myself.. thats the Stator... There is a lot more going into rewinding a stator than just putting wire onto a spindle. Unless you have the proper tooling getting a good outcome is a slim to nill chance. I have a buddy who professionally rebuilds electrical motors and alternators and even huge AC Generators.. but he wont touch a power sport stator because he doesn't have the proper equipment to guarantee the final product.
 

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slim, you type too fast... LOL

ok...

1st off, its pretty well understood that TPE's stators are the best out there. worth the $ and time it takes to get one.

2nd. our stock charging system will NOT really begin producing enough power to charge the battery until probably around 2k rpm. this is normal. Aftermarket parts (TPE stator, and most importantly MOSFET R/R) can allow the system to charge at lower rpms.

of course, this all gets thrown out the window if you have a lot of aftermarket electrical load on it. it was marginally spec'ed at the factory, and there is only so much you can do to improve its output significantly
 

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Sparky!!!
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slim, you type too fast... LOL

ok...

1st off, its pretty well understood that TPE's stators are the best out there. worth the $ and time it takes to get one.

2nd. our stock charging system will NOT really begin producing enough power to charge the battery until probably around 2k rpm. this is normal. Aftermarket parts (TPE stator, and most importantly MOSFET R/R) can allow the system to charge at lower rpms.

of course, this all gets thrown out the window if you have a lot of aftermarket electrical load on it. it was marginally spec'ed at the factory, and there is only so much you can do to improve its output significantly
If you use the 50 Amp MOFSET R/R you should get a full 14.5 Volts at idle, and no change all the way through the rpm range.
As for the second part Teddy Bear...again if you go with the largest R/R you can find you could run any aftermarket accessory you could think of short of a pair of aircraft landing lights or a competition car audio system
 

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I agree slim.

stock specs on the charging system is

24A output at 8k rpm, 14V output.

Due to space and size limitations, you can only put so much wire onto the stator.

The stator is what is our limiting factor in the charging circuit. we can improve it some, but there is only so much we can do to it.

I wont get into the state of the actual wiring used in the harness
 

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Sparky!!!
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I agree slim.

stock specs on the charging system is

24A output at 8k rpm, 14V output.

Due to space and size limitations, you can only put so much wire onto the stator.

The stator is what is our limiting factor in the charging circuit. we can improve it some, but there is only so much we can do to it.

I wont get into the state of the actual wiring used in the harness
Well ok, you got me there, but since I made my own wiring harness, and had Tim wind me a HO Stator, i know I am pushing 50 amps out of my MOFSET R/R.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finished the primary winding of the stator today and will try to solder the leads up next week and then onto the insulating. Rick's stator is working perfectly so I have no plans to remove it until it shows signs of failing. Maybe it will never fail...wishful thinking.
The slight discharge at idle of Rick's stator is really not affecting performance so its a non issue for me.
 
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