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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
here is about everything I used to replace my stator and parts needed. and please feel free to add any tips or tricks you might have found for our members who might have to go through this in the future. you will see me adding to this a little at a time in case my computer acs up I wont have to type it all over.

for those that think this is an overwhelming job, its not near as bad as it looks. I too though oh my god but had it done in about 16 hours total working in an 8 x 10 metal shed.

parts from cheapcycleparts
bevel gear case gasket x 1 - 11009-1510
gasket generator cover x 1 - 11009-1474
o-ring outer dynamo cover bolts x 3 - 92055-109
o-ring outer cover x 1 - 92055-1319
exhaust crush gaskets x 2 - 11009-1476

parts from autozone and honda
permatex high tack gasket sealer, permatex blue thread lock, permatex red thread lock, small tube dielectric grease, moly 60 for the splines (available at honda dealer) stator (purchased mine @ ricks electromotorsports). 4 quarts oil, filter, gallon antifreeze (suitable for aluminum engines)
Total cost about $230.00



tools needed, metric set of wrenches and sockets, bottle jack (front of engine), scissor jack (rear of engine) or if you have a small floor jack it would probably work great but it has to fit under engine with room to lower it. razor blade or gasket remover. masking tape and sharpie for marking hoses connections and bolts for bevel gear and generator cover. And most important www.vn750.com for asking questions and anything you might come across.

the walkthrough with everything I removed to get it done, hopefully I remember everything but if I think of something I forgot I will edit and add it later.

preferably with a warm engine (not hot) drain the oil and antifreeze as if you were changing them, remove oil filter.
remove seat
remove battery and full charge it
remove ears
remove tank, 3 bolts and 3 fuel lines
coolant housing
coolant reservoir on right side of bike (just unbolt it and hang it out of the way on rear of bike)
radiator 4 bolts, a ground and the fan connection
exhaust both sides
shift lever
oil line tab on left side of generator cover I just bent at a 90 degree angle instead of removing it
carburetor boots, one on each carb, about 3 inch diameter
I think there is 2 or 3 radiator hoses on top of the engine you will need to unhook for the engine to drop
remove bevel gear, draw a diagram of the gear numbering every bolt clockwise. and number each as you remove. them with masking tape, be careful not to tip the gear upside down or the spring and the clutch gear will fall out. clean any gasket material stuck to it off.
both jacks you will want a piece of 1/4 -1/2 inch x 3 x 4 for the top of it between the motor, place bottle jack with board in the front behind the starter, scissor jack towards the rear of the motor
remove motor mounts (3 of them) and mark where each one goes
remove front crossbar bolts then remove the frame on the right side of bike and swing out of the way (no need to remove brake components) the front cross bar should drop right out of the way then. remember or take pics of the way your wires ran before doing this.
remove generator outer cover and then loosen generator cover bolts

now the fun begins, work the rear scissor jack up and down a little to break motor free. as you lower the engine be sure to keep a close eye on the shift shaft and make sure it doesn't hit the frame. as you are lowering turn your handlebars to the left and this should start the motor front swinging out of the bike in the front to the right side. you will need about 2 inches of clearance between the frame and the generator cover for the cover to slide off the shift shaft. if you raise the rear jack high till the bike starts to wobble on the centerstand a little this will let you pivot the whole bike counterclockwise a little and make it easier to get the clearance you need without prying on the engine as much. once you have enough clearance you are on the home stretch. remove the cover from shift shaft then
remove the stator from the cover again noting how the wires are ran.

now reverse the whole process

I used the gasket sealer all around and between the two rubber grommets on the stator wire and I think its the pickup coil wires to prevent leaking.
a couple tips though. before adding your gasket sealer and gasket to the generator cover, do a quick test run on exactly how you will put it back in, once you have enough clearance, add the gasket and sealer and put it back on.

installing bevel gear first use your moly 60 to lube it up real good. no need for gasket sealer here as there is nothing to leak, then install it but the spring will make it feel like it wont fit towards the front of it, in the owners manual there is a bolt tightening sequence, be sure to follow it and tighten bolts evenly and it should go on smoothly.

I owe a lot of credit to someone that did a write up on this as well as I followed a lot of his notes, I'll figure out who you are shortly and give you credit, between our write ups hopefully we can save some members a whole lot of guess work.

thanks, "JM1515" for your stator replacement notes.

hopefully this link works, its to a shoppingcart at cheap cycle parts with all the gaskets and orings needed.
http://www.onlinemicrofiche.com/cheapcycleparts/shoppingcart/CheckOut/Viewcart.asp
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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It sounds like a good write up wib, with a lot of helpful tips. Good work.

edit May 5, 2010.

Quote from wib714 above:

"installing bevel gear first use your moly 60 to lube it up real good. no need for gasket sealer here as there is nothing to leak, then install it but the spring will make it feel like it wont fit towards the front of it, in the owners manual there is a bolt tightening sequence, be sure to follow it and tighten bolts evenly and it should go on smoothly."
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Many of us do not have an owners manual, but the Clymer service manual shows a picture with 7 bolts holding the front bevel gear to the engine. They are to be tightened in a criss-cross pattern, similar to lug nuts on a wheel. Torque spec is only 8.5 ft-lbs, or 102 inch-pounds if you have a 1/4" drive torque wrench.

Common practice is to tighten in 2-3 steps, ie. finger tight , then tighten to spec in 1 or 2 steps in a criss-cross pattern.
 

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can u give part numbers u used for cheapcycles? i tried lookin and i cant finad ANY gaskets for my bike on there and ill be doing this very soon
 

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Discussion Starter #4
can u give part numbers u used for cheapcycles? i tried lookin and i cant finad ANY gaskets for my bike on there and ill be doing this very soon
I'll get all the part numbers when I get home tonight. just wished I had pics to include with the write up but was afraid I'd ruin my new camera!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
added a link at the bottom of my post that will take you to a shopping cart at cheapcycleparts.com with all the gaskets and orings needed to do the job already loaded in it, just complete the cart and fill out your address and shipping info!
 

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that dont work...no parts in it, i dont have the cookies that are on UR computer haha (cookies not meant as a joke)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
there in my post now.
 

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Awesome!!! Thanks a ton wib!!!!
 

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Hey Wib - Know it's been a little bit since you replaced your stator. Any leaks? Any other ideas that come to mind to make the procedure less daunting? Thinking about doing mine myself now vice having a stealership do it. Have a week coming up that might have enough spare time in it to get this done. Thanks for your help so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no leaks yet, but haven't ridden it too much at all, was just able to get my permit for this year today so I only went about 40 miles so far. I'll let you know as I'm about to put mass miles on her. 132 miles a day to work.
as for tips. take your time, mark everything unless you have a great memory especially the generator cover bolts and holes and bevel gear bolts and holes. have everything you need before you tear her down so when you get the stator in it will all be fresh in your head for reassembly. and once you get her all back together let your gasket sealers cure 24 hours before filling with fluid!
 

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added a link at the bottom of my post that will take you to a shopping cart at cheapcycleparts.com with all the gaskets and orings needed to do the job already loaded in it, just complete the cart and fill out your address and shipping info!
I tried the link but just get an empty basket.:confused:

Here are a couple of more ideas for keeping all the little parts in order and together when dis-assembling the bike. Plastic egg trays or flats that hold 30 eggs work great for keeping small parts in order. Likewise any old muffin tins, cookie sheets and cake or bread pans are good for keeping stuff together.

If you have different length bolts holding a particular piece on, take a piece of cardboard ( like a cereal box), and trace or draw an outline of the piece, and poke holes in it to correspond to the position of the bolts. As the bolts come off the bike, push them in the matching position on the cardboard. It saves fiddling with tape and pen numbering for every bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I tried the link but just get an empty basket.:confused:

Here are a couple of more ideas for keeping all the little parts in order and together when dis-assembling the bike. Plastic egg trays or flats that hold 30 eggs work great for keeping small parts in order. Likewise any old muffin tins, cookie sheets and cake or bread pans are good for keeping stuff together.

If you have different length bolts holding a particular piece on, take a piece of cardboard ( like a cereal box), and trace or draw an outline of the piece, and poke holes in it to correspond to the position of the bolts. As the bolts come off the bike, push them in the matching position on the cardboard. It saves fiddling with tape and pen numbering for every bolt.
I tried to take the work out of the shopping cart for someone in the future but apparently it only works with my computer so I reedited my post with all the part numbers from cheapcycleparts.
and as for your cardboard trick, where were you two weeks ago with that? I'll remember it for the future though, good tip, thanks!
 

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Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.
 

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Replace Alternator / Stator Without Removing Engine
A simple mod for my 1990 VN750 / Vulcan 750 A6 using a Dremel rotary tool and about $20- in supplies from Walmart and Home Depot can be viewed at
youtube. Search Vulcan 750 Stator.
Link to youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN-JEBCnhDI

Hey Tux7, what diameter is that steel plate that needs to be fabricated?
Is yours made of galvanized steel? What gauge?

After taking another look at the link, it looks like I can get a close approximation by measuring just outside the diameter described by the 3 cover screw heads.

Edit: Answer to above questions. 5 1/4" diameter, 16 gauge steel plate
 

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Discussion Starter #19
awesome job man, welcome to the forums. you are definately starting out right!
 

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Thank you for posting the link. Good to hear that you're on the mend, Hoss.
In response to Darrel's 2008 conversation , please stuff oily rags into the ports to reduce metal dust getting into the case while cutting. I followed with an oil and filter change.
Merry Christmas to all.
Tux...

I'm in the middle of the process and have an interesting situation. After cutting the inside case, I'm getting a resistance like almost a spring loaded feeling and am unable to pull the stator. I've cut the the stator wires and have moved the p/u coil wires... Am I hanging up on something. The service manual shows no spring behind the stator? I've got a '01 750... HELP!!!
 
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