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Discussion Starter #1
I have to ask if anyone has attempted to change the stator coil on the VN750 by cutting the frame on the left side and inserting a solid steel rod plug welded and bolted in the front and a split pipe bolted together in the rear.. I think this would allow for the removal of the cover and bolts without removing the engine. The integrety of the frame should remain intact as long as it is securely re-bolted .. just looking for an easier fix..:motorcycl
 

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I have to ask if anyone has attempted to change the stator coil on the VN750 by cutting the frame on the left side and inserting a solid steel rod plug welded and bolted in the front and a split pipe bolted together in the rear.. I think this would allow for the removal of the cover and bolts without removing the engine. The integrety of the frame should remain intact as long as it is securely re-bolted .. just looking for an easier fix..:motorcycl
I know one guy on here who modified the left side of his a few years and several stators ago with,no ill effects.He may not want me outing him on here publicly because all of the naysayers that say it can't be done and swear in their vast experience if you do it you'll die.If done right it will work.if you got the skills,have at it.Although I didn't say you could safely.

Here is my legal disclaimer.I will not guarantee the said modification not to "Rip ,Rot, Wear,Tear or other wise fail and cause some kind of misalignment of your frame or the Solar System.I also can not promise it will be the best thing you have ever Helt ,Felt or Smelt" that's the end of my disclaimer.

On a serious note I have wondered why it was perfectlly alright for Honda to build the VFR 750 this way fro the factory.But it would have been a sin for Kaw to do the same.:doh:
 

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I know some have used the ends of the right sub-frame attachments and welded them correctly. Ebay is one place to find the sub-frame, but you need the ends off the main frame too or fab something up to fit.

Also saw one pic of another job that really looked hacked.
 

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can it be done, sure! doesn't make it a great idea to hack on a frame in my opinion. go with the stator plate mod if you plan on keeping it long enough you might have to replace it one day. to just swap it out is a two day job and I'm no pro! after the start plate mod it would be like a half hour job and you keep your frames structure
 

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Giggity!
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I may be the one who Denny if referring to. I have done exactly that.
I don't have a write up on it as it is Highly fround upon & I don't suggest it as you could easily ruin the integrity of the frame.
But done right, it works.

The stator plate which was not available when I did mine is a better alternative.
 

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I may be the one who Denny if referring to. I have done exactly that.
I don't have a write up on it as it is Highly fround upon & I don't suggest it as you could easily ruin the integrity of the frame.
But done right, it works.

The stator plate which was not available when I did mine is a better alternative.
where is the "Like" button, on this site? :notworthy :)
 

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Pulling the motor is not that big of a deal!!

I bought my VN750 for $300 in November of 2012, why so cheap? The stator needed to be replaced. I had been thinking about getting an entry level bike and since I am a decent mechanic. this was a perfect fit for me. I immediately did some research which included joining this forum and found that the engine has to be pulled to change the stator. I read all the threads on here about case mods and frame mods etc, wow. pulling the motor must be hell if so many see these modifications as a better way to go....I asked questions:: Do these stators fail so often that grinding your engine case is a good idea? Is pulling the motor so hard? Based upon the answers I got, this is what I did.
I purchased a Tim Parrot stator for 70 bucks....cheap and built to last.
I downloaded a manual for the bike, which is free all over the web.
I pulled the motor, put in the stator and put the motor back in, probably 8 hours work. It can be done much quicker if ur not anal about cleaning and restoring every nut and bolt like I am. Don't let pulling the motor intimidate you, far less skill required to pull the motor than to grind ur case without ruining it......Do it once the right way!:loser1:
 

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'03 VN750 "Rosie"
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I pulled the motor, put in the stator and put the motor back in, probably 8 hours work. It can be done much quicker if ur not anal about cleaning and restoring every nut and bolt like I am. Don't let pulling the motor intimidate you, far less skill required to pull the motor than to grind ur case without ruining it......Do it once the right way!:loser1:
That's my thinking on it, too. My track record for disassembling and reassembling is much better than my track record for measuring right and cutting straight. I'll probably learn more about by mike that way, too. If anything, i might try the oil line modification. Fortunately my charging is good right now so ill just ride!
 

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im bout to pull mine for the second time to fix a nasty oil leak, so Im right there with you!
 

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well i have cut out the factory stator, waiting on some cleaner to get the metal dust out of the alternator and then its time to test fit and wait on my rewound tim parrot stator.

I found that the cutting wasnt as difficult as i was expecting, hopefully the install will be easier than expected as well
 

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jawstec
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Am in the middle of such a project .Replacement rod is 6 inches x 1.185 for kick stand with slider hole to push rod from stand area to center equally on both parts of frame. Frame has been reamed to allow rod to slide easily then drilled 1/4 and secured with 4 stainless steel bolts. Other side I have drilled out lower rad. bracket bolt to secure rod stationary, this will be installed first with 3 bolts and kickstand last. Both are ground on the ends to get max. rod length for max strength. Cuts will be plastic filled sanded and painted also large black wide sip strip will be placed over cut. HOPE THS GETS YOUR JUICES GOING TO GO OUT AND SAVE $700.00 in LABOR.
 

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Has anyone made a video of the process of replacing the stator. I'm still very confused, as the Kawasaki dealer seems to think that its as easy as removing the side cover. But every thing I read here mentions you have to almost pull the engine, or at least tilt it a bit.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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Has anyone made a video of the process of replacing the stator. I'm still very confused, as the Kawasaki dealer seems to think that its as easy as removing the side cover. But every thing I read here mentions you have to almost pull the engine, or at least tilt it a bit.
We all wish it was that easy; but it ain't. Pulling anything from the stator side of bike usually requires an engine pull. This is why many opt to have the "Tuxedo Mod" done. It then allows the stator to be replaced w/o needing to pull engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well it's a done deal .. cut the frame just below the radiator /engine mount and also cut the frame before the lower rear bend goes back up. I fixed this section so it can be removed in the event the stator needs to be replaced again.. the bike is charging fine now. and the removed section is bolted into place to allow quick stator replacement if it is needed again in the future.. thanks to all who helped with suggestions and answers..
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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