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Discussion Starter #1
So the stator was replaced. It was TOAST! Drove the bike home after my mechanic gave the battery a full charge and when I parked it in the garage, I plugged in the charger...and it took 5 HOURS. Obviously the battery is also done. Got a new one. Is there anything else I should check first? The r/r is fine (need to move it still, perhaps this weekend)
 

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Start it up and check your voltage at the battery, when you rev it up it should go up past 14 volts.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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Sounds like either a bad stator replacement job or you either just needed a rectifier or have a bad ground wire, I'm voting for instead needing to replace the rectifier and the mechanic. He should have tested your battery charging before returning the bike to you.
 

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Did u tap into the original stator wires or go directly to the R/R with the new stator wires? Does your headlight still come on?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
headlight is on. I bought a new battery, charged it fully before putting it in. Left it sitting fully charged for 24 hours and hooked up the battery tender again this morning and the battery seems to have lost some charge.. it is flashing green which means 80+% charge. Obviously I am losing a charge in a short somewhere. Scratch that..it was flashing for maybe 8 7 minutes and is fully green, so, maybe I am not losing a charge after all. will take it for a spin today and see how it is when I get back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I drilled out the r/r an think I may have found my problem. The wires coming from the harness are in rough shape and a couple of the connections seem to be quite corroded. Replace the harness before relocating?


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So I drilled out the r/r an think I may have found my problem. The wires coming from the harness are in rough shape and a couple of the connections seem to be quite corroded. Replace the harness before relocating?


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You can still relocate with present/in need of replacement wires/contacts.

Personally, I would repair wires/connectors in "rough shape" with new...
A complete harness replacement will become a huge job, and a used harness may not be in much better condition than your existing harness.
jmo

:smiley_th
 

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My wording was wrong. It is just the wires leading to the connector clip that goes into the r/r


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Cut a few inches before the problem spots, solder new wires in, heat shrink. For the ends to the r/r i used Tyco female blade connectors and they fit almost perfect they were aliitle wide and cracked the harness connector shell on the r/r. I just taped the shell up and then taped the it all together to create a sealed connection
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Would I be better off following the wires (all 6 of them) and replacing them with a thicker gauge wire? Since one was cracked, maybe more are along the way
 

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Would I be better off following the wires (all 6 of them) and replacing them with a thicker gauge wire? Since one was cracked, maybe more are along the way
I used a lower gauge b/c that's what I had lying around but it is unnecessary. The bad spot is most likely from a specific area it was touching, check for corrosion when u cut and back track as needed. No need to split the wire harness.
I also wrapped the wires with electrical tape, split loom and more electrical tape.

Good luck
Stephen
 
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