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Discussion Starter #1
I own two of the Vulcan 750s. One is a 1993 and the other is a 1999. The 1999 battery is not charging. I also have swapped the JB on both bikes, swapped both R/Rs and swapped batteries. The 1999 is still not charging the battery and the volt meter shows no rise in voltage to the battery when the rpms go up. I have charged both batteries with my battery tender before running any tests. I have pulled all the fuses (except the main 30 Amp fuse) and the voltage still does not rise with increased rpms. I have tried moving the blue wire in the JB box and same results, no voltage increase. I have also replaced the ignition switch on the 1999.
Stator(s) is putting out up to 65 volts AC on both bikes (disconnected from the R/R) and no shorts or grounds or opens. Stator(s) seems to be fine. Both R/Rs seems to be good. The 1993 Vulcan is charging great and no problems with it. I would think just swapping out parts on the good charging 1993 to the 1999 would help locate the bad item !
I have cleaned all terminals (pins) and such for all the connectors and all looks good. No burned wires and no burned connectors or connections.All battery connections have been cleaned and all possible grounds cleaned.
I have read many many of the trouble shooting pointers given here on the forum and done all the trouble shooting that can be done. Im at a loss here guys. Chime in with your ideas !
 

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I own two of the Vulcan 750s. One is a 1993 and the other is a 1999. The 1999 battery is not charging. I also have swapped the JB on both bikes, swapped both R/Rs and swapped batteries. The 1999 is still not charging the battery and the volt meter shows no rise in voltage to the battery when the rpms go up. I have charged both batteries with my battery tender before running any tests. I have pulled all the fuses (except the main 30 Amp fuse) and the voltage still does not rise with increased rpms. I have tried moving the blue wire in the JB box and same results, no voltage increase. I have also replaced the ignition switch on the 1999.
Stator(s) is putting out up to 65 volts AC on both bikes (disconnected from the R/R) and no shorts or grounds or opens. Stator(s) seems to be fine. Both R/Rs seems to be good. The 1993 Vulcan is charging great and no problems with it. I would think just swapping out parts on the good charging 1993 to the 1999 would help locate the bad item !
I have cleaned all terminals (pins) and such for all the connectors and all looks good. No burned wires and no burned connectors or connections.All battery connections have been cleaned and all possible grounds cleaned.
I have read many many of the trouble shooting pointers given here on the forum and done all the trouble shooting that can be done. Im at a loss here guys. Chime in with your ideas !
Unless I'm missing something here, it has to be R/R related. Your stator is putting out good voltage. If it were me I would replace the wires from the stator bullet connectors to the R/R. I assume you're getting the readings from the bullet connectors. If I still didn't get around 13 volts to the battery I would replace the wires from the R/R to the battery, wiring them directly to the battery. If you still don't get 13 volts then it has to be the R/R. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks JM2001 i will give your idea a try.
Thanks Slimvulcanrider i will give your idea a try also.
Updates as i proceed with this troubleshooting :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Checked all engine grounds, nice and clean and tight. Engine ground cables seems to be in great shape. Cut the output wire on the R/R (white wire) and checked for R/R output voltages. As rpms increase so does the R/R voltage output. I saw up to about 25 volts output on the wire. Hooked cut R/R output wire directly to the (+) battery terminal. No change in battery charging or a higher voltage. This was also done with the 3 ten amp fuses removed from the JB. Reinstalled the 3 fuses. Still no charging!
NOTE: Also checked the amperage being pushed to the battery + terminal and it was around 1.8 to 2 amps. Have a good Fluke digital meter so im sure the readings are correct.
 

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You have tested both stators, all connections and swapped r/r, right. I would swap batteries. It sounds like the only thing left.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep swapped batteries also :) Same results :) Both stators and R/Rs are working.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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your in waco? if ya can get the bike to me we can figure it out one way or another im in celina tx north of frisco give me a call if its an option
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks NewRidder9944,
I will continue to solve the electrical problems and let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
STATOR WAS AT FAULT.

Did the Tuxedo Mod and all is well now. All the problems came to be the Stator. Even though it checked out ok with all the recommended tests and was still putting out about 55 to 60 VAC. I did am amperage test on all three yellow wire leads and the stator was not pushing any current, hence the Tuxedo Mod. Installed the ElectroSport Stator and new ElectroSport R/R.
Currently getting 14.8 VDC to the battery so all is good. I wish to think all that chimed in on my problems with the 750. Also installed a small Led Digital 12V meter. Thanks guys.
NOTE: The Tuxedo Mod leaves a bit to be desired in the fact that to much sealer has to be used around the stator cover. I solved this problem my cutting gaskets to fit the cover and things are grand again !
 

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What did you use for the gasket? I gotta reseal mine. I would prefer some kinda gasket as apposed to all that rtv.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just went down to AutoZone and got a roll of their (Blue) gasket material and cut out two (2) new gaskets and double sealed them with RTV, worked for me :)
 

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when I did my stator mod I shaved the inside of the outer cover where the three screw holes sit against the new mod plate. there is a lot of meat there and used covers are cheap if you go to far. the stator mod plate is about 1/16 of an inch thick I believe, and thats alot of gasket to make up. I shaved my plate a little at a time trying to shave all three screw holders evenly. I kept shaving and trying out fit until it was close, keeping an eye on the thickness left on the cover so as not to shave to much. I used my drummel and it worked great. I applied a thin bead of rtv on the cover when done and it sealed great.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey Outlaw,
I can see where your mod works too! I may try that next time i put a stator into the #2 750 of mine. Thanks for the chime in ! This forum is the best !!
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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now that you have a stock stator laying around send it in to tpe i havent heard much good about the electrosport stators it could fail on you sooner than you want
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Goona see how the new stator works out. Have read here that some 750 owners have only gotten 400 miles out of a startor and then had to change it out again. If it does go out atleast the MOD is done to the bike so no big deal next time around.
TPE ? Not fam with that.
 

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when I did my stator mod I shaved the inside of the outer cover where the three screw holes sit against the new mod plate.
Ditto. I also shaved the inside cover screw hole towers, which is appropriate if the cut-out spacer piece (when mounted to the plate) is being held too far toward the outer cover. Assuming one does the tuxedo mod with the inner cover removed, the easiest way to tell if the inner cover towers need grinding is to look at how things line up on the inside of the inner cover. In my case, the spacer was about a sixteenth of an inch away from being level with the inner cover from which it was cut. WARNING: if you try this, it's absolutely essential you remove the same amount of metal from each tower -- else, you risk buggering the alignment of the stator relative to the rotating magnet assembly: very bad juju.
 
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