Dunno how many amps we have. do know this though. We dont have a fuel pump, and we also run a 3 phase system IIRC. I've tried to find an upgrade for our stator system, and there doesnt seem to really be one. Also most stators fail b/c of the oil that is used to cool them (crankcase oil) so the unburnt fuels and carbon breaks down the insulation creating a short.MikeyMike said:
Stator question
Is it true that we have 32amp stator systems? This was emailed to me from a good friend of mine.....
"most 32 amp systems only deliver 7 amps with a 6o watt headlight, taillight, and two running lights ur using about 9 amps and an alt that puts out 7 amps at idle is already under a 2 amp draw. this will go to 4 amps with the brake light on. not a heavy draw on a 16 amp attery but add lets say a constant 9 amp draw for a fuel pump and this brings the draw up to about 13 amps this is a big draw on a 16 amp battery and will lead to poor battery life and unreliable starting a three phase system will cure this problem...moving up to a 40 amp or 50 amp system will get rid of the problem"
Is this true about our bikes? Could this be wwhy so many stators are destroyed so quickly?
"most 32 amp systems only deliver 7 amps with a 6o watt headlight, taillight, and two running lights ur using about 9 amps and an alt that puts out 7 amps at idle is already under a 2 amp draw. this will go to 4 amps with the brake light on. not a heavy draw on a 16 amp attery but add lets say a constant 9 amp draw for a fuel pump and this brings the draw up to about 13 amps this is a big draw on a 16 amp battery and will lead to poor battery life and unreliable starting a three phase system will cure this problem...moving up to a 40 amp or 50 amp system will get rid of the problem"
Is this true about our bikes? Could this be wwhy so many stators are destroyed so quickly?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Well, if anyone feels like wrenchin' a little in SouthEastern PA, give me a shout!
Not just from the contaminants in the oil breaking down the insulation. Also the heat from the current in the small stator heats up the insulation and breaks it down.
Best bet is to find some way to keep the oil cool. Also keep the coolant cool. In other words, do not let the fan start up to keep the engine cool. If that fan starts, it's worse than the fuel pump we don't have. As long as it's running, it's cooling the coolant in the radiator but it's also heating up the wiring in the stator due to the increased current being produced to run the fan.
Best bet is to find some way to keep the oil cool. Also keep the coolant cool. In other words, do not let the fan start up to keep the engine cool. If that fan starts, it's worse than the fuel pump we don't have. As long as it's running, it's cooling the coolant in the radiator but it's also heating up the wiring in the stator due to the increased current being produced to run the fan.
Hi:
There is a cool modification from another vn750.com post:
> The thing that makes it a biatch for a lot of motorcycles, not just
> the
> vn750, is the fact that you have to pull or tilt the motor to get at the
> stator to replace it. Darn stupid engineering in my book. At any rate ,
> you can buy the modified stator cover from www.tocmanufacturing.com , so
> when you replace your stator, you'll only have to pull the engine once.
> The next time it will be a 30 minute job to replace the stator.
There is a cool modification from another vn750.com post:
> The thing that makes it a biatch for a lot of motorcycles, not just
> the
> vn750, is the fact that you have to pull or tilt the motor to get at the
> stator to replace it. Darn stupid engineering in my book. At any rate ,
> you can buy the modified stator cover from www.tocmanufacturing.com , so
> when you replace your stator, you'll only have to pull the engine once.
> The next time it will be a 30 minute job to replace the stator.
poor engineering!
Yes! I completely agree about the poor engineering.
I spent 3 days pulling my engine (by myself) and putting it back together again. The whole time I raved (to myself) about Kawasaki's poor engineering!
Good design on the bike. But the engineering sucks at many places--stator being a prime example.
And in my case, the assembly was pure bad stuff! I understand the assembly is done here in Sacramento (or nearby someplace). Seriously bad assembly. I had to replace cross-threaded bolts, plug in vacuum hoses, re-attach handle-grips, put rubber boots in place, etc.
Probably a good thing the stator went bad so that I could see all the faulty assembly stuff.
Yes! I completely agree about the poor engineering.
I spent 3 days pulling my engine (by myself) and putting it back together again. The whole time I raved (to myself) about Kawasaki's poor engineering!
Good design on the bike. But the engineering sucks at many places--stator being a prime example.
And in my case, the assembly was pure bad stuff! I understand the assembly is done here in Sacramento (or nearby someplace). Seriously bad assembly. I had to replace cross-threaded bolts, plug in vacuum hoses, re-attach handle-grips, put rubber boots in place, etc.
Probably a good thing the stator went bad so that I could see all the faulty assembly stuff.
I think to TOC mod may also let the stator overheat. When moved there is, in my opinion a greater chance of stator failure due to overheating. it will be easier to change out but you may have to do it more often....
my .02 worth
Stan
my .02 worth
Stan
Electrosport makes a replacement stator for our bikes that according to the folks on the VROC site is much much better than the OEM stator with higher power output even at idle. Part number ESG-050. Price 119.00
http://www.electrosport.com/shopping_stators/prod_esg050.html
http://www.electrosport.com/shopping_stators/prod_esg050.html
Hi - Newbie here, with an electrical problem that might fit this line of descriptions. I was up in Gettysburg yesterday just to see what Bike Week was all about, and got caught up in a long, slow line of traffic on my '92 750. Dogged along for about 15 minutes in first gear, with the temp gauge rising, but never redlining. And at some point,"something" kicked in and the gauge dropped some again. After a bit, my riding partners and I decided to pull into a parking lot and take a break from sitting; got in the turn lane to go left and sat some more. When I finally opened the throttle to make the turn, the bike died. Tried to re-start, and nothing. At all. Still had lights and stuff, but no clicks, no nothing.
Checked radiator fluid; ok. After about 30 minutes, tried starting the bike - nothing, just the relay clicks. Jump-started the battery and kept the rpms above 2800 (good lesson learned there), but when I went to open the throttle, the bike died again and wouldn't restart (no relay clicks this time). Voltmeter showed the battery a little low (11.50 or so), so I tried letting it charge up longer. Same deal - open throttle, stop engine. Jumped it one more time and pulled the pos terminal off the battery and the bike died. Another helpful biker said that that was an indication of a bad voltage regulator...but then he said maybe it was the stator.
At present, I've got the battery on a charger, but after 17 hours, the light on the charger is indicating "red" (meaning I'm not back up to 12 v).
ANyone have an idea as to what may have happened to my bike? I had ridden it over 80 miles on Friday without any trouble; and it was 54 miles up the The Berg, no trouble...until I got caught up in traffic.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I bought a voltmeter/ohmmeter, so I'm ready to test any and everything...
Thanks!
Cindy Robins
Checked radiator fluid; ok. After about 30 minutes, tried starting the bike - nothing, just the relay clicks. Jump-started the battery and kept the rpms above 2800 (good lesson learned there), but when I went to open the throttle, the bike died again and wouldn't restart (no relay clicks this time). Voltmeter showed the battery a little low (11.50 or so), so I tried letting it charge up longer. Same deal - open throttle, stop engine. Jumped it one more time and pulled the pos terminal off the battery and the bike died. Another helpful biker said that that was an indication of a bad voltage regulator...but then he said maybe it was the stator.
At present, I've got the battery on a charger, but after 17 hours, the light on the charger is indicating "red" (meaning I'm not back up to 12 v).
ANyone have an idea as to what may have happened to my bike? I had ridden it over 80 miles on Friday without any trouble; and it was 54 miles up the The Berg, no trouble...until I got caught up in traffic.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I bought a voltmeter/ohmmeter, so I'm ready to test any and everything...
Thanks!
Cindy Robins
Sounds to me like you lost your battery!! I lost a cell on mine and what a nightmare ride home!! Batteries that lose a cell will not take a charge...and bike will run like S**T, if at all. check that out first.... if you can afford it.. get the MF battery that they rave about here, I have not done that yet as my battery is still good... knock on wood!! 
if that does not fix it then check out the rest of the charging system.
if that does not fix it then check out the rest of the charging system.
Stator problem/bad battery cell
Sorry, I tried to post this before and wasn't sure where it ended up:
How do I determine if I have a bad cell (other than by elimination (e.g., won't recharge))? And is that something I can fix ("just add water..."), or do I just need to go out and buy a new battery and be done with it?
Thanks!
Sorry, I tried to post this before and wasn't sure where it ended up:
How do I determine if I have a bad cell (other than by elimination (e.g., won't recharge))? And is that something I can fix ("just add water..."), or do I just need to go out and buy a new battery and be done with it?
Thanks!
I tihnk my reply ended up somewhere else...sorry. How do I know if I have a bad cell (other than the no-charge thing)? And is it something fixable (just add water?), or should I just go biy a new battery?95VN750 said:Sounds to me like you lost your battery!! I lost a cell on mine and what a nightmare ride home!! Batteries that lose a cell will not take a charge...and bike will run like S**T, if at all. check that out first.... if you can afford it.. get the MF battery that they rave about here, I have not done that yet as my battery is still good... knock on wood!!
Thanks!
IF you really want to check it out cell by cell they do make testers that look like a very small squeeze tube that has little balls it it... thay float in the tube in accordance with the state of charge in that cell. or you can take it out to any of many parts stores that can test it for you, many will stll be open on Sunday. besides.. if you can not get it to take a charge... then what chance does the stator have of putting a charge on it. Personaly I'd just go get another one..
Fixed! Thanks!
Thanks for your help! CHecked the battery cells,and sure enough, one was low. Filled it, and the battery was fully charged within about 3 hours. The big question was: would the bike run once I got it started? Didn't take it far (driveway to the garage; twice for good measure), but that's a whole lot farther than I made it yesterday!
Thanks so much - someone recently wrote a post about "look for the simple things first." Definitely wise advice!
Cindy
Thanks for your help! CHecked the battery cells,and sure enough, one was low. Filled it, and the battery was fully charged within about 3 hours. The big question was: would the bike run once I got it started? Didn't take it far (driveway to the garage; twice for good measure), but that's a whole lot farther than I made it yesterday!
Thanks so much - someone recently wrote a post about "look for the simple things first." Definitely wise advice!
Cindy
Even if the stator and r/r are dead, you won't have any problems riding the bike with a charged battery. 95VN750 is correct - get a new battery like those mentioned in the first thread here in the Electrical section - do that before doing anything else. See if it will start and run with the new battery.
THEN, get the repair manual, and look up the electrical section about the r/r. Use your voltmeter and ohm out the r/r as per the table in the manual. A busted r/r will ruin a stator pretty darn quick, but a busted stator won't ruin a r/r. You may have to replace it, and it may have taken the stator out already. If it's OK, then check the resistances on the stator. Report back your findings.
THEN, get the repair manual, and look up the electrical section about the r/r. Use your voltmeter and ohm out the r/r as per the table in the manual. A busted r/r will ruin a stator pretty darn quick, but a busted stator won't ruin a r/r. You may have to replace it, and it may have taken the stator out already. If it's OK, then check the resistances on the stator. Report back your findings.
Got the full Elextrosport package and cannot say I'm too impressed. Not much better then OEM but a hell of a lot cheaper...Sky Rider said:Electrosport makes a replacement stator for our bikes that according to the folks on the VROC site is much much better than the OEM stator with higher power output even at idle. Part number ESG-050. Price 119.00
http://www.electrosport.com/shopping_stators/prod_esg050.html
My understanding is that the stators don't last as long.
If I were you I would go and get the best sealed battery
you could get.
I had thoes forty dollar batterys over the past five years
and nothing but problems with them so the last one when
it was going dead after a few cranks I took it to the dealer
so the tech come's out with his meter and checks the
system and shows me its only putting 12.3 v @3500rpm
says the stator is bad well ok out the door I go.
Well I went and bought a eighty dollar sealed battery
and it never started better I checked the voltage with the new
battery and @ 3500rpm it now reads 14.5v I have it four months
now and it starts on one or two cranks every time never started
this good in five years its worth the money......
you could get.
I had thoes forty dollar batterys over the past five years
and nothing but problems with them so the last one when
it was going dead after a few cranks I took it to the dealer
so the tech come's out with his meter and checks the
system and shows me its only putting 12.3 v @3500rpm
says the stator is bad well ok out the door I go.
Well I went and bought a eighty dollar sealed battery
and it never started better I checked the voltage with the new
battery and @ 3500rpm it now reads 14.5v I have it four months
now and it starts on one or two cranks every time never started
this good in five years its worth the money......
Also note, the VN750 will NOT run without being connected to a battery. The fact it died when you lifted the positive terminal off of the battery is NORMAL.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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