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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Last week my vn700 started messing about, so did all the usual tests & that’s when I found I’m not getting enough voltage from RR unit, so I did all the stator tests first which it passed so put it down to a faulty RR unit.
I replaced the RR unit with a shindegen FH020AA kit (not a cheap Chinese knock off) after fitting the voltage was so much better averaging 14.5-15v while cruising.
After a week maybe a 100miles it started messing about again, checked the wiring and the positive wire to the battery was completely melted, I used a larger gauge wire for the positive & negative from the RR unit and now the RR unit is toast.
I know what you guys are going to say, but I need to reassure myself there isn’t an alternative.
Am I right in thinking that the stator is what caused the RR unit to go bad or just unlucky with a bad RR unit, I haven’t had a chance to retest the stator windings yet but that is my next step, what do you guys think 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi the wires from the stator all good soldered connections directly on to the wires.
 

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Ok, I guess that’s the cleanest type of connection but it’s a bitch for troubleshooting. If the stator is putting out the proper VAC, and passing all tests like you stated then yes, the R/R is probably screwy, does it have any kind of warranty? I’m guessing that if any thing down the line from the R/R that was shorted would not fry it and/or blow a fuse. It’s not unheard of to just get a “bad one” with any electrical parts.
 

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May be a short in the Junction Box? The melted battery cable seems odd. It wasn't previously melted, like a long cranking or high amp draw situation?

I'm curious how you tested the r/r? My understanding was that standard tests for the stock r/r, wouldn't apply to a MOSFET.
 

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Sorry you're having troubles. Where was the wire melted? Coming right off of the R/R? That wire SHOULD be going through the main 30 amp fuse between the R/R and the battery, preventing wire melting like this. I'd definitely check the stator leads again for a short, but the R/R is the likely culprit here.

I'd wager that the R/R is hooked directly to the battery, bypassing the fuse (possibly due to an owner getting tired of constantly tripping the fuse? Same thing with upping the gauge of the wire ... works for a little while, but doesn't address the root problem, and something eventually blows up.), and when a short happened somewhere in the system the battery dumped a lot of amperage through the circuit, melted the wires, and fried the R/R (unless it was already fried because the original short was an internal component).
 

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Which battery cable is melted? To the starter or from the r/r?

If the r/r kit was installed correctly, it should have it's own 30a maxifuse or a circuit breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi all, thank you for your reply’s,
I will do more investigations at the weekend.
The RR units output was wired directly to the battery bypassing original wiring, which was what I read in the mosfet guide on here. The positive wire from the RR unit to the battery was melted, the kit didn’t come with a fuse so missed that part of the installation guide, will fit a fuse when I get the problem sorted.
The situation at the moment is the RR unit isn’t charging the Battery, hence I was wandering if it was just a bad RR unit or if the Stator caused the RR unit to blow, will do more tests and get back to you.
Thanks all.
 

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It does sound like the r/r has shorted out. If the stator checks out good, you'll know.

Another test you might try if the stator is good... Remove the r/r positive from the battery, and see what voltage you get on that wire while disconnected from the batt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It does sound like the r/r has shorted out. If the stator checks out good, you'll know.

Another test you might try if the stator is good... Remove the r/r positive from the battery, and see what voltage you get on that wire while disconnected from the batt.
Thank you for your help.
The company that supplied the RR unit are supplying a replacement, but still need to check the stator before fitting the new one.
 
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