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Discussion Starter #1
Seem to be having a charging problem, I thought it may be weak battery, replaced with hp, mf battery and have had trouble twice starting it. Doesn't seem to be charging. How do you test the stator.And if anyone could be so kind and kind of give me a step by step process I know where the stator is just not specifics on testing it .Oh by the way it is an 86 750.Thanks in advance.
 

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Lenny, the easiest way to check the stator is to test the resistance across the leads. The stator is located behind the left side cover of your engine - if you find the three yellow wires that come from that side of the engine and hook into the wiring harness, those are the ones you'll check. First, make sure the bike is warmed up a little before you test it, 'cause conductivity, heat, etc., etc. make a difference. Take your multimeter and set it to resistance - test each lead by putting the pos multimeter wire on one lead, the negative on another. You should have .3-.5 ohms on each wire that you test. If those test out okay, then you might be looking at the regulator - that's easier to test dynamically (get the bike running - when you're up to about 3500 rpm, your battery (using the same multimeter - red to pos terminal, black to neg terminal) should show 13.5 - 14.5 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
tested stator and r/r

TEsted stator I got arounf .10 resistance. when I checked the r/r i ran the bike up to 3500 rpm and there was almost no change in the voltage. Any help?
 

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Be sure to test from each yellow lead to engine case. This is spot where most stators fail, a short to the core which is tired to the engine case.

If you do not read infinite resistance from each yellow to the case, good bye stator. Do it cold and hot.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
when you say test each yellow to the case do you mean"positive on wire negative to case"? also should the bike be running when I test? Thanks for the help and patience
 

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No, test with bike off. You are looking to see if the wires have shorted to the ground. Set the meter on ohms. You are looking for no contact to ground. No reading means good.

negative on case and red on the wire is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Replaced the r/r, still having the charging problem. So I guess the next step would be the stator. Is there anything else it could possibly be? ANYONE?
 

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Did you test the 3 yellow wires like you were instructed? If you didn't, you need to or you run the risk of frying the R/R if you haven't already.
There are 2 places to do this. You can do it from the RR connector disconnected from the R/R, or you can do it before the R/R at the bullet connectors. The 3 wires come from the stator and go up to the R/R. The bullet connectors can be found just above the swing arm before the wires go behind the left side cover. Pull these apart, (it doesn't matter what order they back together in) and check their resistance to ground. This is with the bike off. Anything other than infinite or OL indicates a short and either a failing or failed stator. Remember to check it cold, then start and warm up the bike, and check it again when the engine is hot. Heat can cause the insulation on the stator windings to crack open and cause the short. It's only noticeable when the stator gets hot due to expansion but it will prevent the battery from charging.
 

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One other thing I would highly recommend. GET A MANUAL!! Kawasaki has one for the bike and it can be downloaded free at TOC Manufacturing's website though if you are on dialup, forget it as it's 119megs. Clymer's makes a good manual for the bike as well and it can be found for about $25 at various places on line.
 
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