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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced the r/r and no go......
The stator has 0.7 ohms leg to leg and no continuity to ground.
But checking the voltage and I get 5vac at idle and 20vac at 5k rpm.
NOW WHAT?!?!
 

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sounds like replace stator!
 

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Sorry to hear that, but I agree with Denny: Sounds like a fabulous engine pull is in your future! It's really not such an ordeal, though, and besides, you've got all kinds of support here to tackle the job. Fire away with questions - we'll all have you back up and running in no time!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
humm......looks like the biggest part of the project is getting the case to clear the frame.
Why not just modify the frame so that part of it is removable? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how much time is needed to do a stator replacement ?
and.... what is the "best" stator to use?
 

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Some people have modified the frame rail, but I haven't seen any approaches that I believed would restore the structural integrity of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
An experienced welder could put it back good as new.... of course getting a good weld with the engine in place would be a trick.
 

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X3 on the stator.

The engine tilt sin't so bad, as long as you take your time and have the tools. I did mine in about 2 hours (but I am a full time auto mechanic).

Make sure your stator is made in the US or Canada. You can find them on ebay for about $100. you will also need the gasket,and would recomend soldering the 3 leads instead of crimping them. Gives you a better connection that won't be a suseptable to corrosion.

We're here for support!!:beerchug::motorcycl
 

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Replaced the r/r and no go......
The stator has 0.7 ohms leg to leg and no continuity to ground.
But checking the voltage and I get 5vac at idle and 20vac at 5k rpm.
NOW WHAT?!?!
Boy, I dunno. The only way you'd get those symptoms is a massive short where the stator leads are crimped to the stator windings - and that's not likely without creating continuity to ground. Have you removed to ignition timing inspection cover and viewed the leads and windings on the top side of the stator? I would expect extreme discoloration and flaking of the wiring enamel to be seen there. Did you measure the stator output with three open leads? It's just suspicious that you have such low voltage with three normal legs and no shorting to ground.
 

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Sparky!!!
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actually I can replicate voltage just as he posted with out a short to ground... a break in the windings would also cause such low numbers... but yes still needs a stator either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK....perhaps a little background is in order...
About a month ago the bike left me stranded with a dead battery. I bought a new MF AGM battery and "heads up" LED voltage display. everything seemed OK...the bike wouldn't charge at idle, but I always got the green light on the display when crusing.
This 4th of July, I washed the bike real good and went for a ride. Well, that's when I noticed that the display flashed red no matter what RPM I was running. The battery died again. I tested the stator for a short to ground....nothing. I checked the resistance from leg to leg. 0.7 ohms. Then moved to the R/R and did the resistance test and got open from every pin to every other pin, no matter the arrangement of the probe leads. So I figured bad R/R. Put the new Rick's R/R in last night and no go. Funny thing is, the new R/R tests the same as the old one....open on every pin. I figured I'm doing something wrong for two R/Rs to test the same, so moved to the stator voltage test. I pulled all three yellow wires and checked the voltage between them at idle. I get around 5 volts and up to about 20 at 4000 or so RPM. One other note: When I pulled the stator wire bundle back, water poured out of the shrink tube......
 

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Sparky!!!
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wait a sec... I had this happen to me... i ended up swappin out my jb to fix another problem... which in return fixed the charging issue... sounds like you have a bad diode or two inside your jb. if you are handy with a soldering iron its a $0.99 fix and about 30 minutes of time. Also use some electrical cleaner on the stator lead connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wait a sec... I had this happen to me... i ended up swappin out my jb to fix another problem... which in return fixed the charging issue... sounds like you have a bad diode or two inside your jb. if you are handy with a soldering iron its a $0.99 fix and about 30 minutes of time. Also use some electrical cleaner on the stator lead connectors.
Yeah, but how could the JB have an effect on the voltage i'm getting leg to leg on the stator with the three yellow wires isolated from the rest of the system??
 

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Sparky!!!
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i can't hook up a jb to duplicate the problem due to a completely modded electrical system. Have you done the tests per the Kawasaki Service manual for both the stator and the R/R? also I have noticed that the Kawasaki R/R trouble shooting chart is wrong.. well not wrong, but hard to fallow.

on the R/R, A1,A2, and A3 should read infinite through all of them.
from Battery (white Wire) going to any of the other terminal should read infinite
From Monitor (brown wire) to any other terminal should read 10kOhms to infinite
From Ground (Black Yellow wire) to battery should read .2-4 kOhm
From Ground to Monitor should read 1-5kOhm
From Ground to A1,A2,A3 0.2-0.6 kOhm

***From= negative (-) test lead on the MM; to = positive (+) test lead on the MM*** this is very critical to get correct readings... if done backwards you will always read O.L.


Now back to your last question about the stator numbers.. I don't have an explanation. so if you still feel like you have a problem with the stator, then buy a new one and replace it... (which is what I would do any ways) I was throwing the JB out there because I have had several of them with bad diodes give false charge. with the stock replacement R/R the R/R only works when the Monitor wire tells it to. test to see if you are getting 12 V at terminal M (brown wire) with the bike running at 5000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I checked the stator and R/R again:
I don't see in the manual or clymer a voltage output test for the stator. It does pass the resistance and short test tho.......
STATOR: 10VAC @ idle up to a max of 20VAC on two legs.
5VAC @ idle on third pair up to 10VAC.

R/R: (new Rick's)
(X to Y means black[com] lead on pin X and red[ohms] lead on pin Y; digital meter set to 20k range)
(the lowest ohm scale on my meter is 200 and at that setting all pins read inf between each other)
B to M = inf
B to g = 36K
B to A1 = 123k
B to A2 = 119k
B to A3 = 126K
M to all = inf
G to B = 36k
G to M = inf
G to A1 = 191k
G to A2 = 187k
G to A3 = 194k
A1 to B = 186k
A2 to B = 181k
A3 to B = 183k
A1 to G = 118k
A2 to G = 114k
A3 to G = 116k
 

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Sparky!!!
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the clymer and Kawa Service manual do not show a VAC Stator test... it is one we came up with because we found that if a stator passes the Kawa test it doesn't mean it is good. The VAC test is a more accurate test than testing the resistance of the stator leads. now with that being said... It does look as though your stator findings are very low.


Your tests for the R/R aren't great

B to M is a good reading.. right where it is supposed to be... the rest of your B to Y readings should have also been inf

M was a good reading

G to B was good you got .36

G to A1,A2, A3 was a little low, but within tollerance

A1,A2,A3 to all was also a little week, but again, with in tollerance.

My conclusion from your tests is that your Stator isn't giving enough voltage for the Rectifier to convert VAC to VDC... Give Tim @ TPE a shout out... he might have a few other tests to help confirm it is your stator... but after you reposted your resaults I am 99% sure that your stator headed south.
 

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Water in your stator wires isn't a particularly good sign, either...

Dariv, if it's not the R/R and you want to reverse the deal, shoot me a pm. You can use the money for your stator. :)
 

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I checked the stator and R/R again:
I don't see in the manual or clymer a voltage output test for the stator. It does pass the resistance and short test tho.......
STATOR: 10VAC @ idle up to a max of 20VAC on two legs.
5VAC @ idle on third pair up to 10VAC.

R/R: (new Rick's)
(X to Y means black[com] lead on pin X and red[ohms] lead on pin Y; digital meter set to 20k range)
(the lowest ohm scale on my meter is 200 and at that setting all pins read inf between each other)
B to M = inf
B to g = 36K
B to A1 = 123k
B to A2 = 119k
B to A3 = 126K
M to all = inf
G to B = 36k
G to M = inf
G to A1 = 191k
G to A2 = 187k
G to A3 = 194k
A1 to B = 186k
A2 to B = 181k
A3 to B = 183k
A1 to G = 118k
A2 to G = 114k
A3 to G = 116k
why do you think it is called an alternator?It is supposed to put out ac voltage.WE didn't pull that figure out of thin air I think it is in one of the manuals Factory or Haynes,Experience is what has taught us where to check and what for.If you have a problem with your stator,may as well admit it and start to work removing it going back and retesting with other methods which have proven inconclusive is not going to help.Time for troubleshooting is past,now it is time for repair.every one has given you good solid advice,and here is some more do not buy one of the cheap made in chinese replacements ,IE Electrosports ,Ricks stator etc.One member put one in and it lasted less than 200 miles and he had to replace it again,buy oem or get a QUALITY rewound one from TPE.If you keep asking questions and not working on solving your problem you will never get it fixed,I don't mean to sound harsh ,But as John Wavne said "we're burning daylight",If the members on here tell you something with a general consensus of the same problem ,odds are they are right,pull the stator already!It is bad.
 
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