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Discussion Starter #1
Greeting fellow riders,

I really think my stator is shot, i have replaced my battery 3 times since january.
Earlier today i checked out the voltage on the battery while the engine is on.
Rev it about 4500rpm and it hardly goes 12.8V. I need to check the yellow hire as well in the morning. When you guys are talking about checking the ohm from a yellow to the engine case...what is the engine case? sorry i have no clue :doh:
Also, can someone provide all the parts( include what/where to buy the stator) i need to buy before i start the scary swap.
Do we have some detailed instructions and pictures for a stator replacement?
Any last minute advices before replacing it?

Sorry to all, i know there are tons of thread regarding this issue but there are also so many different opinion, i just don't want to get confused.

Thanks guys in advance!
:rockon:
 

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Simple Solutions
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965 Posts
engine case is the engines shell if you engine is painted you need to scrap a piece to bare metal... u need a front beval gasket a stator cover gasket a stator 4 liters of oil oil filter antifreeze also most are gonna recomend the orings on the smaller cover and screws for those however i didnt replace them on either replacement i highly recomend checking the rectifier befor u buy parts and start the tear down for its a long day to do the stator... i recomend pulling the motor for its less hassle then dealing with a suspended motor... this is also where i grease the tail end of my drive shaft too im not gonna recomend a stator for i havent found one im happy with yet...
 

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Simple Solutions
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965 Posts
i havent performd that test the first replace was diagnosed by the seller of the bike to me and i did the stator tests and found it faulty ... the second time i was in the motor i saw a bare wire so i replaced it while i was there ... do u have a clymers manual? i recomend getting it befor u tear down it will have details on it but for the stator if there is continuity between the engine and any one of the yellow wires the sator will need to be replaced... i was leaning toward the rectifier because of your readings when my stator was grounded i got no charging voltage i just had batt voltage it seems that you are recieving an inadiquit charge.... this isn't a diagnoses please dont take this as replace that part....
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
check my sig line, no pics sorry but should have most the info you need. its not as bad as it sounds, took me two days.
 

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Premium Member
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405 Posts
I've never been able to get resistance reading off an r/r that fall within the Kawi ranges. I wound up testing the diodes on the r/r, and doing the resistance and voltage tests on the stator. the following 2 links helped me out a great deal when I was diagnosing problems with my charging system.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php

The short list for the stator test is resistance in the range of .3 to .5 across any 2 yellow leads, and infinity across yellow and case. AC voltage (not DC voltage) s/b 50 to 70 VAC @ 4000RPM. (my resistance readings are a little higher consistently)

Hope this helps! Good Luck!
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
thanks guys!
Does anyone knows how to check if the R/R is good?
It seem to be easier to test the stator output: Unplug the R/R connector and start the bike. set MM on AC volts and test the three yellow wires at the plug @ 4000 rpm. Check two at a time but testing all three. Write down the voltages.

Then with engine off do a continuity test to see if a coil has grounded. Set MM for continuity black lead to ground or case and red lead on yellow wire, check all three. If you show continuity the stator is toast, if they test open then they are not grounded.
 

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Registered
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Discussion Starter #10
It seem to be easier to test the stator output: Unplug the R/R connector adn start the bike. set MM on AC volts and test the three yellow wires at the plug @ 4000 rpm. Check two at a time but testing all three. Write down the voltages.

Then with engine off do a continuity test to see if a coil has grounded. Set MM for continuity black lead to ground or case and red lead on yellow wire, check all three. If you show continuity the stator is toast, if they test open then they are not grounded.
Will do, thanks Lance
 
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