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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen conflicting information and that is why I am asking in a new thread.

So far I have tested the 3 yellow leads (from the connector on the junction box) between each other and each one to ground.

All three show OL when tested to ground, so I believe that is good.

The also all show roughly 0.6-0.8 ohms against each other. This is where my question lies. I've seen a post where lance said up to 2.0 ohms is ok, but other people and the manual say specifically between 0.34-0.52

which is correct. I will do more testing, but my battery is charging.

One further note. The bike actually quit on me when pulling into my parking spot today. I guess I barely made it home. I also had to push start it to leave work.

I will perform VAC tests and report back, until then any advice/suggestions would be great.

Thanks
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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The also all show roughly 0.6-0.8 ohms against each other. This is where my question lies. I've seen a post where lance said up to 2.0 ohms is ok, but other people and the manual say specifically between 0.34-0.52
I recall that post of lance`s too. I think he said the important thing was that the resistance readings be equal, or nearly so, between the three combination sets of yellow wires.

I think if you get VAC readings in the 50-70 range, you may be ok as the 0.6-0.8 ohm readings are well under lance`s 2 ohm range limit, and only slightly above Kaw specs.

I wonder if the problem could be the reg/rec instead of the stator.
 

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I have a sears digital multimeter, and have been using Fluke multimeters at work for 20 years or more. With my sears meter when shorting the leads together before testing I only get about .6 ohms, about the same with the flukes. when reading a good length of wire if its 3 ohms or less I usually call it good. I dont know how long a stator wire is but if its 3 ohms or so between wires I would call it good. I think in the manual the kawasaki dealer is using some other kind of meter, so ive heard. I agree with olhoss, check the voltage if its good I think your ok
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I have a sears digital multimeter, and have been using Fluke multimeters at work for 20 years or more. With my sears meter when shorting the leads together before testing I only get about .6 ohms, about the same with the flukes. when reading a good length of wire if its 3 ohms or less I usually call it good. I dont know how long a stator wire is but if its 3 ohms or so between wires I would call it good. I think in the manual the kawasaki dealer is using some other kind of meter, so ive heard. I agree with olhoss, check the voltage if its good I think your ok
It is the IC igniter unit that requires the "Kaw special tool" for testing. I think someone here with electronics training speculated in a post a few weeks ago that the "special tool" was an analog gauge with a resistor in the circuit. I do not understand how all this works, I just recall reading something along those lines.

I think any ohm meter is fine for checking all other electrical components on the bike.:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, my multimeter automatically zeros itself when I touch the leads together.

As for the VAC test, my battery was fully discharged so its gonna take an overnight on the tender.

I think/hope that the problem is either the R/R or possibly a short somewhere int he system draining the battery.

I only suspect a short because I just did some wiring, however, I am not sure if that explains the bike dying at the tail end of a 20 mile ride at highway speeds when the battery should have been charging. Also I should have lowered the total load by switching to LEDs so I can't imagine it is a over-draw issue either.

I guess I better start thinking MOSFET.
 

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It is the IC igniter unit that requires the "Kaw special tool" for testing. I think someone here with electronics training speculated in a post a few weeks ago that the "special tool" was an analog gauge with a resistor in the circuit. I do not understand how all this works, I just recall reading something along those lines.

I think any ohm meter is fine for checking all other electrical components on the bike.:smiley_th
Any ohm meter is fine for checking the stator windings and wiring harness resistance. Testing the R/R should be done with an "analog meter" (that is what Kawasaki's "hand tester" is) on the Rx100 scale in order to get the same results they specify in the table.

I believe that your readings of 0.6 ohm for stator winding resistance is OK even if a little over spec. It is hard to get accurate readings at very low resistance. Check the accuracy specifications of your meter.
 

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I think if you could roll start it, your stator is doing something. Not charging the battery, your R/R isn't doing something. That was my wake up, before going through all the meter stuff. And check for burnt connections, I had those, too.
 

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Wareagle1970
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Also, would recommend you get a volt meter for your bike.
 

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Also, would recommend you get a volt meter for your bike.
Amen, but I wouldn't recommend the red LED digital one.
It looks great and is affordable but is very hard to read on a sunny day.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, I've been putting off all the electrical mods till this winter. Guess I didn't make it.

Gonna pick up a voltmeter today
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, just ran some more tests.

First off, I may have done the VAC test wrong. I took the connector off the R/R and tried reading VAC across the yellow wires with engine running and got very jumpy/weird readings. between 8 & 16. Maybe I did it wrong, gonna try that again.

I also tested the DC current across the battery with R/R plugged back in and engine running.

Idle = 12.6V
2K RPM - 12.6-12.8V
5K-5.5K RPM = 12.6-13.0V

I think my R/R is shot. But I am not sure about the stator. Any advice?
 

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Wouldn't run it too much with a bad R/R plugged in.
Looking with hindsight, I believe my R/R went first and dragged my stator down later. Battery not charging well at first but I could roll start it. Then I couldn't roll start it but it would run if I charged the battery on the tender ( how I got it home from where it died ).
Had I known what I know now, I might have been able to save the stator before it fried by replacing the R/R and cleaning up the connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I retract that last post.

I disconnected bullet connections and ran all these tests there to eliminate any wiring issues or JB issues as I have seen referenced somewhere.

Engine Off:
Continuity between all three leads ~0.5-0.7 ohms = OK
Continuity between each lead and frame = OL = infinity = OK

Engine On
VAC between leads:

A-B; 1100 RPM = 18V; 4000 RPM = 50V; 5000 RPM = 70V = OK
A-C; 1100 RPM = 12V; 5000 RPM = 45V; 6000 RPM = 50V = ????
B-C; 1100 RPM = 12V; 5000 RPM = 45V; 6000 RPM = 50V = ????

Reconnect Leads:
Voltage (DC) at Battery:

Engine off = 12.8V
Engine On
1100 RPM = 12.6V
3000 RPM = 12.8V
5000 RPM = 13.0V
6000 RPM = 13.0V


From this I suspect possibly a bad stator? If so R/R test is inconclusive until Stator is replaced.

If Stator is deemed ok, then R/R is bad.
 

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Premium Member
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I retract that last post.

I disconnected bullet connections and ran all these tests there to eliminate any wiring issues or JB issues as I have seen referenced somewhere.

Engine Off:
Continuity between all three leads ~0.5-0.7 ohms = OK
Continuity between each lead and frame = OL = infinity = OK

Engine On
VAC between leads:

A-B; 1100 RPM = 18V; 4000 RPM = 50V; 5000 RPM = 70V = OK
A-C; 1100 RPM = 12V; 5000 RPM = 45V; 6000 RPM = 50V = ????
B-C; 1100 RPM = 12V; 5000 RPM = 45V; 6000 RPM = 50V = ????

Reconnect Leads:
Voltage (DC) at Battery:

Engine off = 12.8V
Engine On
1100 RPM = 12.6V
3000 RPM = 12.8V
5000 RPM = 13.0V
6000 RPM = 13.0V


From this I suspect possibly a bad stator? If so R/R test is inconclusive until Stator is replaced.

If Stator is deemed ok, then R/R is bad.
why do you think the stator is bad?all those readings indicate a normal stator,seems like your regulator output is low,I say you need a new R/R although you have me baffled with the 18 v abd 12vand 12v readings what is that and where did you measure it?The difference in ac voltages is nothing to worry about

Edit ;never mind I see now that was at idle,but i still think your stator is fine
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, thanks guys for all the input. I guess its time to order a new R/R.

Hope they come quick
 

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Mine looked something like yours.. I changed out the R/R and so far so good. I used one from a 05-06 CBR600 I was told it was MOSFET and I got it on the cheap.. It wasn't plug and play but very close to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, so I need some more advice. I replaced the R/R today with a MOSFET from Jack.

I installed as many here have suggested, cut three yellow wires from connector coming out of junction box, crimped and soldered into connector and plugged into R/R.

Battery wires go direct to the battery, with the 30amp fuse inline on the positive side.

When I hooked it all back together I still only got 12.6V at idle and 13.0V at 5K RPM

Could this be a bad battery, or is it bad wiring at the stator bullet connectors?

Should I just replace wiring all the way from stator case to the junction box with new (AWG?? 12, 14, 16, 18 etc...) wire. Any suggestions as to next move.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ARGH!!!

Bad battery the whole time.

I wired up the whole thing and tested VDC without leads connected to battery

had 15.5V at idle

connected to battery it was 12.6
 

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