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Discussion Starter #1
Okay I did the stator mod I transfer a little bit volts came in at 13. 26. I let the bikes sit for a few days then I tested it again running the bike, and the stator stopped charging. I tested for ground with the stator and the stator is now grounded what the f###! With the bike off my alms are at. [email protected] the ohlm meter is on 200 ohms settin... Some insight as to why my stator failed again would be helpful for the record it is also a brand new regulator rectifier
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I transfer a little bit is a typo
 

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1986 VN750
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What brand stator did you use, and what brand/type of rectifier?

Low oil can cause premature stator failure as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I used low budget brands for both... Oil level was normal
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I should also mention that some smoke came off one of the yellow leads going to the rr not sure if it was the onespliced for the headlight relay or not
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes bike was on center stand
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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if you had one of the yellow wires smoke it means that it was getting to hot due to a bad connection and that will lead to a stator grounding out and becoming faulty

on a side note the cheapest stator I found is the electrosport stator at close to 100 bucks and its a piece of crap however the tim parrot rewound stators are 86 bucks and seem to do fine in our bikes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hope that's all it was... I think the stator was an electrosport... The rr is also
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like ill be sending my old Stator in
 

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Concert connoisseur
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if you had one of the yellow wires smoke it means that it was getting to hot due to a bad connection and that will lead to a stator grounding out and becoming faulty

on a side note the cheapest stator I found is the electrosport stator at close to 100 bucks and its a piece of crap however the tim parrot rewound stators are 86 bucks and seem to do fine in our bikes
I bought one from ricks and it now has around 26000 miles on it which is more than my original lasted at 22500, I dont get the 14.6 out of it more like 13.6 - 14.0 but so far so good! if I had the time and knowledge then I would have went with tpe though!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hindsight s 20/20...i would have too
 

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1986 VN750
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I bought one from ricks and it now has around 26000 miles on it which is more than my original lasted at 22500, I dont get the 14.6 out of it more like 13.6 - 14.0 but so far so good! if I had the time and knowledge then I would have went with tpe though!
Definitely the exception, not the rule, but glad you have had so many trouble free miles.

I don't ride my VN distance much, but I have about 5k on my TPE Rewind w/o issue.
 

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Definitely the exception, not the rule, but glad you have had so many trouble free miles.

I don't ride my VN distance much, but I have about 5k on my TPE Rewind w/o issue.
mine was all miles for work pretty much, 100 miles round trip a day for two years and 140 miles a day for a year, those were rain or shine miles down to about 30-40 degrees in the mornings. then the bike developed an oil leak which is when I tore it down a year and a half ago and just got it back together a few weeks ago. luckily when it went out i took over the store 12 miles from my house and have been there since but looking forward to riding next year, thought about tagging it this year but the 12 deer I seen on the way to work this morning made me think, it can wait til spring. I did do the stator mod while I fixed the oil leak so if this ricks stator gives out I can do a quick change!
 

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Giggity!
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What stator mod did your do? If I'm reading this right it failed replacement?
Have you removed to now bad stator yet you inspect it?
I'm just curious if it was struck by the rotor. I've done that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What stator mod did your do? If I'm reading this right it failed replacement?
Have you removed to now bad stator yet you inspect it?
I'm just curious if it was struck by the rotor. I've done that one.
Haven't pulled the failed stator..I did the tuxedo mod ...bought the gc_extreme..only tests I've done are the ones with the vooltmeter...with the vooltmeter set at the 200Holm setting I was getting .7 resistance inbetween the the 3 yellow leads, and I was getting 11.9 volts between the leads and the positive on the battery(therefore grounded)... so do you think my rotors outta wack or is the mounting plate not centered properly?..could a faulty headlight relay cause the stator to fry?..cause I checked the splice from the one lead and it was blackened. I'm reely hoping that that's what it is and not the other two. Possibilities.
 

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Giggity!
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I have no experience with the tux mod personally. I just know things are a presice fit & I was suggesting a possability. As for your testing the leads. The voltage coming off the stator is AC current, not DC. You should receive check that. Also, it doesn't sound good that the lead going to the headlight relay showed signs of being to hot.
 

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Well the check i did ( meter set to volts)red lead to the positive on the battery black lead to the one of the yellow wires.. The engine was off.. From what I know it should be reading 0. But it showed 11+ volts
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I i know its ac voltage coming from the stator
 

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Well the check i did ( meter set to volts)red lead to the positive on the battery black lead to the one of the yellow wires.. The engine was off.. From what I know it should be reading 0. But it showed 11+ volts
That is not how you test the stator.

When testing the stator, you should not touch the battery. The stator should be disconnected from the R/R (3 yellow wires). You then take the red/black leads from your multimeter and test from yellow wire to yellow wire, with it set to AC. You should see 0v when off, 20-30v on idle, and 50+ when the RPMs go up. You also need to check grounding between the yellow leads and the frame. If the stator is grounding, it has failed.
 
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