Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Definitely replace the dampers in the balancer, and you'll need a tool to remove the stator from the shaft. Recent post here by niterider gives dimensions - hard to find, although a few of us have them on hand and are willing to send them around.

Blue locktite for...? The blue I use is permanent - can't think of anything on the bike where you'd want to use that.

Bolt on stator is reverse threaded (righty loosey); use a penny to keep the gears from turning (copper doesn't do damage to the teeth).

I like to use a little gasket sealant just to be on the safe side.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,236 Posts
Present readings between alt bullets w/engine on @3k rpms (measuring Vac)

AB=51. AC=50 BC=37
@3K those voltages don't seem alarmingly low to me. I'd retest again @4 to 4.5K RPM . 40 to 70 VAC in this RPM range is acceptable.I would suspect a faulty regulator or a bad connection on the r/r connections,before pulling the stator.I had the same symptoms and it turned out to be a corroded connector on the r/r,if it is in the stock location it is highly susceptible to corrosion underneath the battery.Something else needing checked before tearing it down,JMO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Bolt on stator is reverse threaded (righty loosey); use a penny to keep the gears from turning (copper doesn't do damage to the teeth).

Hi

The stator dosen't bolt on (unless you mean to the side case), that's the rotor. And the rotor bolt is (righty tighty). The righty loosey bolt is in the balance shaft, it holds on the damper gear. :doh:
 

·
Concert connoisseur
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
read through my walkthrough in my sig line, should help you a bit, and X2 on the balance dampers!
 

·
Jack of all trades
Joined
·
2,863 Posts
you forgot the beers....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Bolt on stator is reverse threaded (righty loosey); use a penny to keep the gears from turning (copper doesn't do damage to the teeth).

Hi

The stator dosen't bolt on (unless you mean to the side case), that's the rotor. And the rotor bolt is (righty tighty). The righty loosey bolt is in the balance shaft, it holds on the damper gear. :doh:
Sorry, I was tihnking of the rotor, you're right. And although the tool extracts the rotor, there is a bolt over the rotor that's reverse threaded. :hitanykey
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
I agree with denny, those AC voltages don`t seem that low. Retest at higher rpm before tearing down the engine.

IF you do dismantle the engine, definately replace the balancer dampers.

Left side balancer is held on with a left hand thread as mentioned by others. (Righty loosey)

Rotor pulling bolt is M18 X 1.5 by 50 or 60 mm long. Somebody here recently mentioned finding a bolt with those dimensions in a bolt supply store for ~$3-4.

Case International farm dealerships keep them in stock too, if you are near one.

Cindy don`t like to contradict you, but I think your *rememberer* is on the fritz :). (apply more caffeine :))
My Blue Locktite is medium strength, removable with hand tools.
And my Red Loctite is High strength permanent. Requires heat to remove.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Sorry, I was tihnking of the rotor, you're right. And although the tool extracts the rotor, there is a bolt over the rotor that's reverse threaded. :hitanykey
Ooh I knew what you were thinking. But then, I'm smarted than the average bear. I just got done tearing a vn750 apart. I only found one righty loosey bolt in the whole cycle and it was in the left end of the counter balance shaft.

That had to be the dumbest idea ever. Even Dodge gave up on that idea when they quit putting left hand thread wheel studs on their cars and that was long before the vn750.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Cindy don`t like to contradict you, but I think your *rememberer* is on the fritz :). (apply more caffeine :))
My Blue Locktite is medium strength, removable with hand tools.
And my Red Loctite is High strength permanent. Requires heat to remove.
Medium is Red, Premanent is Blue, Beef steak when I'm hungry and Whisky when I'm dry. :blah::blah::blah:

I think I mixed my metaphors :)
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
My Blue Locktite is medium strength, removable with hand tools.
And my Red Loctite is High strength permanent. Requires heat to remove.
Medium is Red, Premanent is Blue, Beef steak when I'm hungry and Whisky when I'm dry. :blah::blah::blah:

I think I mixed my metaphors :)
Sorry, not according to this website. :)
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.
 

·
Concert connoisseur
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
might as well lube your splines while your in that deep, cant remember if I removed the rear tire or just the front on my stator change but youll already have the exhaust off and from there its only a couple more bolts for tire removal!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,778 Posts
Medium is Red, Premanent is Blue, Beef steak when I'm hungry and Whisky when I'm dry. :blah::blah::blah:

I think I mixed my metaphors :)
And your colors! In the US, blue threadlocker is medium strength.
 

·
Concert connoisseur
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
well if it makes you feel better the nuts on my exhaust were pretty rusted too but the came off much easier han I ever expected, hope you have the same luck!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
One Problem I had when I changed my stator was with the bevel gear case. The clutch lever kept getting turned around and not understanding what was going on I just spin it back in place (the wrong way) It got the pin that pushes against the clutch pushrod all out of wack.

Then after 2 hours of trying to put the gear case back on I finnaly figured out what the problem was. Put my tools away Grabbed a couple beers and un-frustraded myself and finished it the next day. 20 minuites and it was done.

Might want to consider replacing the R/R as well.
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
PS: My one main concern in all this is the removal of my exhaust... pitted, rust, very old at the manifold. Oh, they sound, and still look magnificent! But if I break the spindle that holds the nut... When I bought this bike with the aftermarkets, the PO used nuts, not the acorns.
While waiting for the rest of your parts, spray some PB Blaster (or the penetrating oil of your choice) on the exhaust system nuts and bolts now, and again every day or so to give it a good chance to soak in. :smiley_th
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top