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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey y'all. It's been a while!

I put my bike up early last year. I had some problems with the headlight flaking out once in a while, then often, then.... no headlight..... then the bike wasn't charging. CRAP!

Looking on here, it looks like the headlight is fired off one leg of the stator. That makes sense according to what happened to me, but I don't see it in the schematics. I'll assume that's correct.

The REAL problem: I checked the VR according to my Clymer manual. BAD.
I checked the stator, OPEN!? I pulled the cover off the side of the engine, it looks like the wiring totally melted down :( It's real bad man. The yellow wires burned to a crisp, and the copper wound on the stator burned open in places.

I can purchase a stator and VR.... I've been saving money for it a couple months now, but I sure don't want to pop my new parts. I can't figure out why they went out in the first place. I'm also assuming the new stator and VR will fix my headlight too.

Any suggestions what would cause a melt down? Any on how to make sure I don't smoke the new parts if I can't find a problem?

I'm also trying to find a way to replace the stator without pulling the motor, but I haven't found that yet.

This sucks man!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, I had recently replaced the battery with a new sealed battery before the blowout.... Other than that, just been ridin' her. She's stock through and through.
 

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Oh, I had recently replaced the battery with a new sealed battery before the blowout.... Other than that, just been ridin' her. She's stock through and through.
just do a thorough inspection of your wiring to make sure you have no,shorts or grounded wiring,The stator and r/r are probably the weakest part of an otherwise great motorcycle so this is not an unusual situation.
 

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Welcome back spiral 72.

The no-engine-pull stator replacement engine case modification:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16839

(If the bike is 15 years old or more, and you are getting any unusual engine vibration or rubber chunks on the oil drain screen when you drop the oil, your balancer dampers are deteriorating, and need to be replaced.
Might be wise to pull the engine for this service when you do the stator.)

This is the stator you want:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/moto...2187937QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Read this thread about the Shindegen r/r. After reading it and the links in the posts #3 and #6, I think it may be the answer to the problems we have had with Ma Kaw`s OEM unit.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17593

The scribed link describes this r/r running cooler and charging the system with 14.1 volts at idle. It is what I would buy now, based on the info here.:smiley_th

Our OEM r/r doesn`t start charging until about 2500 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the information. I'll go through the bike a couple more times before I install the new parts.

I wish I'd have thought to ask y'all before I ordered. Hopefully what I got was ok.

stator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-motorsport-electric-stator?mg=7594&t=1&td=1

regulator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-motorsport-electric-rectifier-regulator

I'm pretty sure my stator can't be rebuilt. It really is toast, as in melted, burned and in pieces. The link you give me mentions a MOSFET regulator. I wish I'd have known that was an option (again, I didn't ask :( ). Are they good enough to return the one I bought and pay the restocking fee??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm seriously considering following your suggestion to pull the motor. Honestly I don't know how I'm gonna get it out, but I'll consult the Clymer manual for that too.
 

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Caught my stator just as it was starting to discolor and it was showing to be grounded out (no charging output) and the 3 connections in silicone boots behind the side cover were getting extremely hot, melting the silicone covers. My opinon, the regulator goes out, causes the stator to overheat, causing a meltdown. My regulator was fried also.
 

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^x2 ~ I share your opinion Chuck. I do think that the R/R can fail to chassis ground out, and overheat the stator. There are some who place fuses in line with the stator wires to insure against this happening. Many here will disagree, and I was once talked out of installing fuses. I will once again place it on my task list. Thanks for the input.
 

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Thank you for the information. I'll go through the bike a couple more times before I install the new parts.

I wish I'd have thought to ask y'all before I ordered. Hopefully what I got was ok.

stator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-motorsport-electric-stator?mg=7594&t=1&td=1

regulator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-motorsport-electric-rectifier-regulator

I'm pretty sure my stator can't be rebuilt. It really is toast, as in melted, burned and in pieces. The link you give me mentions a MOSFET regulator. I wish I'd have known that was an option (again, I didn't ask :( ). Are they good enough to return the one I bought and pay the restocking fee??
Disclaimer: I have a fair bit of experience working on my cars and trucks, but VERY little actually, physically working on this bike. I have read through the Clymer manual and highlighted many procedures in it, as well as spending most of my time for the past 33 months on this board while healing from an accident. I read and retain large amounts of info, or can find it again when needed. That said, I am not a mechanic or particularly electrically talented.

So with regards to the stator from Rick. Reportedly he used to sell good quality gear, but now most of the electrical parts that he and the other suppliers sell is cheap crap from China. There are two local sources for me to get a stator rewound that have been recommended to me by 2 local experienced bike mechanics who are members of the local bike forum. I have not checked what the shops would charge to rebuild a stator for the vn750. If they were too high priced I would order one from Tim Parrott without hesitation and pay the core charge, if mine was defective as you say yours is.

As I said in the previous post, after reading ALL THE INFO in the links on the Mosfet r/r, they seem to eliminate the three most common concerns about the OEM unit.
1.- The mosfet r/r only gets warm, not hot, even when located near the exhaust.
2.- It charges with a steady voltage of 14.x volts from idle speed (1100rpm) to redline. The OEM r/r doesn`t begin charging until 2500 rpm.
3.- These two traits seem to protect the stator from early failure.

Now you are leaning toward pulling the engine for the stator replacement and check for any other problems at the same time. You may be looking at either or both of the low quality Chinese stator and r/r failing again again in the next few months or year. This is not as costly to remedy now with TS7`s case mod to replace the stator the second time. (Use TPE`s stator this time!!) The r/r is easy to get at and not a big deal (except for the wasted $100) to replace with the mosfet, if the one you have coming now fails.

STUDY the info on the ebay site for the TPE stator and the mosfet r/r and see if you agree with me.

Your money, your time, your decision. Sorry for the long :blah:
 

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I'm seriously considering following your suggestion to pull the motor. Honestly I don't know how I'm gonna get it out, but I'll consult the Clymer manual for that too.
hey if your at the point of getting the stator out.. your 90% done pulling it all the way out...a floor jack will help with this.. once your clear of the shifter and disconected from the drive shaft... poof your out...dont count ont he floor jack to hold it up though.. once out of the frame your on un easy ground..a helper is the way to go..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How much does the complete engine weigh?? A buddy said I can just lift it out by hand, but it looks a lot more heavy to me than that! I understand it's an aluminum block, but more than about 120# and I don't think it's wise.
 

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How much does the complete engine weigh?? A buddy said I can just lift it out by hand, but it looks a lot more heavy to me than that! I understand it's an aluminum block, but more than about 120# and I don't think it's wise.
There was a thread just a few weeks ago where someone asked the same question. We came to the conclusion that it was probably about #100 with the oil and coolant drained, so your estimate of #120 is in the ballpark.
 

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stator replacement walkthrough in my sig line and some helpful tricks on dropping the motor, X2 on checking the balance dampners while you are in there and have it out!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Very cool. Thank you all for the information and advice.

Fuses inline with the stator sounds like a good idea. I just wonder what happens when only one fuse blows? It soulds like something I'll need to research, and what size fuses too.

I was hoping my parts would be here for this weekend, however..... they ain't
 

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Very cool. Thank you all for the information and advice.

Fuses inline with the stator sounds like a good idea. I just wonder what happens when only one fuse blows? It soulds like something I'll need to research, and what size fuses too.

I was hoping my parts would be here for this weekend, however..... they ain't
if I order parts I try to forget about them until that big brown truck pulls in the driveway, otherwise I drive myself nuts thinking about them, although it is fun to track if ups gives you the tracking number!
 

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Very cool. Thank you all for the information and advice.

Fuses inline with the stator sounds like a good idea. I just wonder what happens when only one fuse blows? It soulds like something I'll need to research, and what size fuses too.

I was hoping my parts would be here for this weekend, however..... they ain't
the current on the remaining two goes up along with the heat and thereby shortening stator life .The factory r/r works by shunting the excess voltage to ground after the battery reaches a voltage level that is determined by the voltage the R/r sees on the wire going directly to battery +.

The alternator on your bike does not work like a car alternator ,they are regulated by turning on power to the field windings in the alternator establishing a magnetic field for the rotor to turn in and induce a voltage that is sent to the battery.Most motorcycles (there are exceptions) have a permanent magnet rotor that turns around the stationary rotor( stator) that always makes voltage when the rotor is turning fast enough o induce a voltage and the voltage will climb according to rpm ,unless regulated by an out side source,.I.E. a R/R.

There are two or three types of regulators out there with the shunt type being most common on bikes .there is a series type ,which is usually the one used with an automotive application ,and then we have the new MOSFET regulators,which several on here have used and I have heard good things about,without going into specifics on the inner workings of the heavy dury transistors in these regulators,they do one thing really well ,keep heat buildup to a minimum thereby increasing stator life,The shunt type is becoming less and less common on new bikes because of it's tendency to heat up ,which is a natural occurrence because extra energy is shunted to ground and the unused energy is burned off in the form of heat,which is trasnsferred to the air by the fins on the r/r.

In my opinion changing to the new type regulator ,is the single mot important modification you can make on a VN750 to improve reliability,especially along with an AGM type battery.

While some may choose to fuse therir stator ,my opinion on that ,and it is an opinion ,others may differ but thats Ok and it's their motorcycle.I would rather clean and remove the bullet connectors and solder the connections together and insulate them separately in order to have a good solid connection rather than a high resistance connection that builds heat in the stator wires,if the bad connection is on the side of the connector on the fuse that is not protected the wire will still heat up ,add too the fact that you now have 6 connectors instead of 3 and you double your chances of having a bad connection.As for the argument that you have to cut the wires to change the regulator or pull the engine, what's the big deal soldering three little wires if you are already out big labor anyway.

My advice is go with the mosfet regulator whether or not you use fuses.there are several kits out there on ebay reasonably priced and if you want to know how much better they work I think a couple of members on here have already used them and have ad good luck with them,I believe vulcanjoe was one. sorry for being so lengthy but I didn't just want to say "I wouldn't fuse mine" without explanation,Denny
 

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the current on the remaining two goes up along with the heat and thereby shortening stator life .The factory r/r works by shunting the excess voltage to ground after the battery reaches a voltage level that is determined by the voltage the R/r sees on the wire going directly to battery +.

The alternator on your bike does not work like a car alternator ,they are regulated by turning on power to the field windings in the alternator establishing a magnetic field for the rotor to turn in and induce a voltage that is sent to the battery.Most motorcycles (there are exceptions) have a permanent magnet rotor that turns around the stationary rotor( stator) (EDIT TYPO: Denny, I think you mean *stationary stator windings*) that always makes voltage when the rotor is turning fast enough o induce a voltage and the voltage will climb according to rpm ,unless regulated by an out side source,.I.E. a R/R.

There are two or three types of regulators out there with the shunt type being most common on bikes .there is a series type ,which is usually the one used with an automotive application ,and then we have the new MOSFET regulators,which several on here have used and I have heard good things about,without going into specifics on the inner workings of the heavy dury transistors in these regulators,they do one thing really well ,keep heat buildup to a minimum thereby increasing stator life,The shunt type is becoming less and less common on new bikes because of it's tendency to heat up ,which is a natural occurrence because extra energy is shunted to ground and the unused energy is burned off in the form of heat,which is trasnsferred to the air by the fins on the r/r.

In my opinion changing to the new type regulator ,is the single mot important modification you can make on a VN750 to improve reliability,especially along with an AGM type battery.

While some may choose to fuse therir stator ,my opinion on that ,and it is an opinion ,others may differ but thats Ok and it's their motorcycle.I would rather clean and remove the bullet connectors and solder the connections together and insulate them separately in order to have a good solid connection rather than a high resistance connection that builds heat in the stator wires,if the bad connection is on the side of the connector on the fuse that is not protected the wire will still heat up ,add too the fact that you now have 6 connectors instead of 3 and you double your chances of having a bad connection.As for the argument that you have to cut the wires to change the regulator or pull the engine, what's the big deal soldering three little wires if you are already out big labor anyway.

My advice is go with the mosfet regulator whether or not you use fuses.there are several kits out there on ebay reasonably priced and if you want to know how much better they work I think a couple of members on here have already used them and have ad good luck with them,I believe vulcanjoe was one. sorry for being so lengthy but I didn't just want to say "I wouldn't fuse mine" without explanation,Denny
Denny, thanks for this explaination that even I can understand. Forgive me please, for editing your post in the quote above. I hope I got it right and make it more correct.

I had considered fusing my stator wires too, when I first joined this board. I later read an arguement against it based on the same reasoning you use, and decided not to do it. I posted links to ebay earlier in this thread for a mosfet r/r with all the wiring needed in the kit. That should simplify the installation for any of us who are not experienced in electrical installations.
 

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Denny, thanks for this explaination that even I can understand. Forgive me please, for editing your post in the quote above. I hope I got it right and make it more correct.

I had considered fusing my stator wires too, when I first joined this board. I later read an arguement against it based on the same reasoning you use, and decided not to do it. I posted links to ebay earlier in this thread for a mosfet r/r with all the wiring needed in the kit. That should simplify the installation for any of us who are not experienced in electrical installations.
I have no problem with you editing my post,you really just clarified what I was saying ,because to have stationary rotor is physically impossible. Your's was a more accurate description but ,and I may be wrong, I think the word stator is a combination of stationary and rotor,I believe someone smarter than me, did as you did and thought nobody will understand the concept of a stationery rotor and came up with the word stator.JMHO

As an aside,mosfet is an Acronym for Metal Oxide Semi-ferrous Field Effect Transistor ,if I remember correctly,look it up on wikipedia ,I may be wrong, but it will explain in detail how they work
 

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I have no problem with you editing my post,you really just clarified what I was saying ,because to have stationary rotor is physically impossible. Your's was a more accurate description but ,and I may be wrong, I think the word stator is a combination of stationary and rotor,I believe someone smarter than me, did as you did and thought nobody will understand the concept of a stationery rotor and came up with the word stator.JMHO

As an aside,mosfet is an Acronym for Metal Oxide Semi-ferrous Field Effect Transistor ,if I remember correctly,look it up on wikipedia ,I may be wrong, but it will explain in detail how they work
You have me thinking now that perhaps it is the combination of the stationary windings and the bowl shaped permanent magnetic rotor that is properly called the "Stator". Up to now I have been calling the just the stationary winding portion the stator, and thinking of the complete unit as an alternator, but not always clearly differentiating between the 2 definitions, even in my own mind.:confused:

I will see what Wiki has to say about mosfet later.
 

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I, myself, really wanted to order a new windshield being as the bugs are out in full force here at home. After reading reviews here and on other sites about the MOSFET r/r, I just ordered one myself. Done the stator replacement with a Rick's high output (and a cheaper r/r) a month ago and just really don't want to go through that again no time s,,,, EVER! really.:beerchug:
 
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