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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings one'n'all

Having done all the work to 'Sweep' to bring up to a decent standard, another fault has reared it's ugly head.

When I stopped to cross the ferry the other day, as I was waved on I lept on the bike, turned on the ignition and pressed the starter. It turned over once, then totally died. No electrics, nothing. (not the same nothing that's on another thread at the moment).

As I have changed stator, R/R, leads, iridiums, MF battery, I'm guessing ignition swich.

Any input greatly appreciated
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
Greetings one'n'all

Having done all the work to 'Sweep' to bring up to a decent standard, another fault has reared it's ugly head.

When I stopped to cross the ferry the other day, as I was waved on I lept on the bike, turned on the ignition and pressed the starter. It turned over once, then totally died. No electrics, nothing. (not the same nothing that's on another thread at the moment).

As I have changed stator, R/R, leads, iridiums, MF battery, I'm guessing ignition swich.

Any input greatly appreciated

Check your battery to frame ground, make sure it's clean and tight. Check the main fuse, if all else fails disassemble the ignition switch and clean the contacts.
 

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Simple Solutions
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965 Posts
x2 to wut lance says
double check all connections pos and neg

im leaning towards ig switch as well ...

is the bike still there ? or did u manage to get her home?
 

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Premium Member
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hi Lance & See,

I've checked all the fuses and they seem OK. The all earth grounds were re-done whilst I had the engine out of the frame, but I'll double check them anyway. The slide on the key part of the ignition switch has been stuck open since I got it, so I'll take your advice and strip it out at the weekend.

As for getting the bike back, I was on the way to pick up a hire truck so that we (my missus) and me could move house. So I had to push it onto the ferry, push it off again on the other side before I remembered that I had breakdown cover! What they call a senior moment. 1 quick phone call to a very nice lady in a call centre in Bangladesh or somewhere, and I was picked up and taken home! Well worth a fiver a month!

Thanks once again for your help
 

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Simple Solutions
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965 Posts
Hi Lance & See,

I've checked all the fuses and they seem OK. The all earth grounds were re-done whilst I had the engine out of the frame, but I'll double check them anyway. The slide on the key part of the ignition switch has been stuck open since I got it, so I'll take your advice and strip it out at the weekend.

As for getting the bike back, I was on the way to pick up a hire truck so that we (my missus) and me could move house. So I had to push it onto the ferry, push it off again on the other side before I remembered that I had breakdown cover! What they call a senior moment. 1 quick phone call to a very nice lady in a call centre in Bangladesh or somewhere, and I was picked up and taken home! Well worth a fiver a month!

Thanks once again for your help
check grounds with a light ... and double check connections into the JBOX dont want to go there but as a last resort it could be that ...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Greetings one'n'all

Stripped the ignition switch, checked all earth grounds, junction box etc, etc. Finally tried a straight wire jump between battery positive & the starter motor, working on the principle that it would prove that at least the starter motor was OK. And got nothing. So before I started hitting it with a large metal bar I thought I'd just connect the car up to it with jump leads, and guess what! All was OK. The battery was flat!!!

So I did a continuity test on the stator and it failed!!! I only fitted the bloody thing six weeks ago!!! After all the work I've done on it I'm beginning the think that perhaps my old Triumph Sprint wasn't so bad after all.

Now where did I put that trolley jack.....................
 

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Simple Solutions
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Greetings one'n'all

Stripped the ignition switch, checked all earth grounds, junction box etc, etc. Finally tried a straight wire jump between battery positive & the starter motor, working on the principle that it would prove that at least the starter motor was OK. And got nothing. So before I started hitting it with a large metal bar I thought I'd just connect the car up to it with jump leads, and guess what! All was OK. The battery was flat!!!

So I did a continuity test on the stator and it failed!!! I only fitted the bloody thing six weeks ago!!! After all the work I've done on it I'm beginning the think that perhaps my old Triumph Sprint wasn't so bad after all.

Now where did I put that trolley jack.....................
yay im not thr only one with three stators yay ... sorry bout the luck check the RR and dont bye a cheap stator ...
 

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Frick! That sucks man.. I feel your pain... literally. I'm having the same electrical problem.

Every morning I have to charge up the battery for one hour before the bike will even consider starting. My starter will turn over A-ok on a low battery but there is not enough juice to fire the ignition coils AND make the starter turn over. So all I get is the starter turning over the engine, and no spark. freakin sucks.

Do you guys think it is the voltage regulator/rectifier that is bad?

I cleaned all the battery cable ends with a wire brush and reconnected them tightly. The battery gets killed by this bike very 6 months due to the electrical problem. So it is pointless to go buy yet another new battery until the problem is solved.


How do you test the stator on these bikes? I own a digital ohm meter... what readings should I get between the lead wires from the stator with stator unplugged ?

I also noticed the clutch switch doesn't work well on my bike. If the bike is in gear and clutch pulled in the engine won't start. It will turn the starter motor.

note; I found a new K&L brand voltage r/r from J&P cycles for $120. but i have not purchased one yet. they also sell ElectroSports brand stators for $120 for our bikes. I just wanted to pass that info along so nobody spends hundreds more at the stealership. J&P's # 1-800-397-4844
 

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That sucks bad... sorry that happend to you.

perhaps you had a bad voltage r/r or a short circuit somewhere that fried the stator? although on my old cbr a bad r/r never fried the stator. Maybe you got a faulty stator.... remove it and see if it is visibly burned ??
 

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junction box is the most gay part on our bikes. It is bad engineering to make a box that is just thrown away .. i mean all the bike really needs is an ignition box ... i just do not understand Kawi's point of making a junction box... especially one that gets fried so easy. I will never buy a kawasaki as long as i live.
 

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The Professor
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Frick! That sucks man.. I feel your pain... literally. I'm having the same electrical problem.

Every morning I have to charge up the battery for one hour before the bike will even consider starting. My starter will turn over A-ok on a low battery but there is not enough juice to fire the ignition coils AND make the starter turn over. So all I get is the starter turning over the engine, and no spark. freakin sucks.

Do you guys think it is the voltage regulator/rectifier that is bad?

I cleaned all the battery cable ends with a wire brush and reconnected them tightly. The battery gets killed by this bike very 6 months due to the electrical problem. So it is pointless to go buy yet another new battery until the problem is solved.


How do you test the stator on these bikes? I own a digital ohm meter... what readings should I get between the lead wires from the stator with stator unplugged ?

I also noticed the clutch switch doesn't work well on my bike. If the bike is in gear and clutch pulled in the engine won't start. It will turn the starter motor.

note; I found a new K&L brand voltage r/r from J&P cycles for $120. but i have not purchased one yet. they also sell ElectroSports brand stators for $120 for our bikes. I just wanted to pass that info along so nobody spends hundreds more at the stealership. J&P's # 1-800-397-4844
With the R/R unpluged test the three yellow wires, one at a time. Set MM to AC volts, black lead to ground and red lead to yellow wire. At 4000rpm you should have above 50vac.

What is your volts at the battery @ 4000rpm?

Do you have a flooded lead/acid battery of an MF AGM battery.

K&L R/R's are the same one Kawasaki uses, Electrosports are Chineese.
 

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Sorry to jump into this post, but the engine I just put together isn't charging. Stator was just rebuilt by TPE. Using the above test, I getting readings of 78/70/38 @ 4000rpm. At idle, they're 24/23/3. Did I get a bad stator from them? Is there something I could have done to screw it up? I used heatshrink on the three connectors to keep them sealed, but at the connector, I'm getting resistance readings of 0.8 - 0.9 . Taking into consideration any added resistance in the connectors, is this within specs? Prefer not to cut off the heatshrink to get to the connectors, but will if needed.

EDIT: Spoke to TPE, who thought it might be a grounded wire. I disconnected the stator wires and checked for a ground to the case, but all 3 are fine. No ground. Now maybe an electricl expert can clear this up for me. My MM doesn't have a 100 setting for ohms, but a 200, as you can see.



Don't know why. Maybe it's intended for something else. Would I cut my readings in half? That would change the resistance readings I'm getting between wires from 0.7, to a reasonable 0.35? Each of my bikes have the same .7 reading.

Another thing. The wiring diagram shows the wires from the stator going straight to the 6 pin connector at the regulator, with only the connectors in between. Then why is it that I can't get a voltage reading at the three connectors unless the wire to the pin connector is plugged in? Was hoping to eliminate the harness between the connectors and the 6 pin connector as the problem. Wouldn't you get the same result at the stator connector as you would at the pin connector? Strange. Either way, I'm still getting the same 24/23/3 reading at idle at the stator connectors. Any ideas?
 

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We all suffer the loss of our Lakewood brothers and sister. I grew up in Lakewood. I wish I could have been the one to put several rounds center mass on the killer.
 

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Then why is it that I can't get a voltage reading at the three connectors unless the wire to the pin connector is plugged in?
With the connector unplugged the stator is floating, i.e. there is no closed circuit for the current to flow. The stator AC voltage should be measured between the yellow wires.

Your multimeter is quite satisfactory. You never need to scale the shown reading, it always is in the units you have selected (V, A, mA, ohm). The 200ohm scale gives you 0.1ohm resolution, which is quite typical.

To get even remotely correct resistance reading of the stator windings, first short the test leads and note the reading. Then measure the windings and subtract the above reading from the winding readings. In any case the resistance measurement method is quite unreliable for testing the stator (except for checking shorts to ground).
 

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Using Lance328's method, I can get a reading at each of the yellow wires of the disconnected 6 pin connector. But I can't get a reading at the stator connector unless the wire to the 6 pin connector is still connected. Seems to me the wire from the stator connector to the 6 pin connector is just an extension of the stator wire. So why can't I get a reading straight from the stator wire? There are things about electricity that just aren't natural.

As far as the voltage readings go, only two of the three wires are producing over 50vac @ 4000 RPM. There are no shorts to ground and the resistance test between wires seems within specs. What else would cause the low voltage on the one wire, and would that prevent the voltage regulator from putting out any voltage?
 

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With the bullet connectors connected and the R/R connector disconnected, one of the stator phases is still connected to the headlight relay, and you do get readings against ground. Measure between the phases.
 
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