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Axeman
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a stock 2002 VN750. The starter button wouldn't activate the starter relay, but after several tries, it started up. This lasted for one ride and then it stopped working. Also, the headlight and the displays for neutral, headlight and high beam don't come on.

After some troubleshooting, I found that when I disconnect the connector for the Brown/White wires coming out of the ignition switch, it starts right up, but without lights. I reconnected the Brown/Wht wires and then pulled the fuse for the Lights circuit and it would not start. Apparently, the Brown/White wire splits to a brown wire and also goes to the voltage regulator's voltage sensor.

I'm thinking that the voltage sensor is shutting down the system, but I don't know if its because of something else. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
 

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Axeman
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I disconnected all connectors with the brown/white wire: regulator, reserve lighting box and the junction box and I am measuring 6 ohms from the ignition switch brn/wht connector to ground. Did i miss a connection somewhere or does it look like a harness problem?
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
the said brown wire is a pita... think of it as the main artery of the bike. what it doesn't effect is slim.

I would look into faulty safety switches.
 

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Registered
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3,353 Posts
couldn't this be something as simple as a bad ignition switch or start button??

They can be opened and cleaned before you start tearing into the wire harness....that's where I would start if it were me.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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4,508 Posts
couldn't this be something as simple as a bad ignition switch or start button??

They can be opened and cleaned before you start tearing into the wire harness....that's where I would start if it were me.
Absolutely !
:smiley_th
 

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Registered
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119 Posts
If you cant hit the start button and have the engine crank, its either going to be a battery ground the main ignition switch, red wire from the ignition switch. or power from battery on the white wire to ignition switch. the kill switch on right handlebar or starter switch which is run by the red wire to the kill switch then jumps to starter switch, which then goes to starter relay. which then jumps the main battery circuit to the starter via the relay., but willing to bet you your issue is at the ignition switch
 

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Axeman
Joined
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
the said brown wire is a pita... think of it as the main artery of the bike. what it doesn't effect is slim.

I would look into faulty safety switches.
Yep, it looks as though the neutral switch is not working. I grounded the green wire connected to it and it fired right up. The only thing that seemed odd is that the headlight didn't come on until after i pressed the start button. Is that normal? I never paid attention.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
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4,508 Posts
Yep, it looks as though the neutral switch is not working. I grounded the green wire connected to it and it fired right up. The only thing that seemed odd is that the headlight didn't come on until after i pressed the start button. Is that normal? I never paid attention.
Yes, that is Normal.
AC Output from the Stator activates the headlight relay.

:smiley_th
 

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Axeman
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Great! Thanks

Does anybody know of a thread for repairing the neutral switch? Seems like its probably just a dirty or bent contact.

Perhaps changing the oil might even do the trick? It only has 9K miles on it.
 

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Sparky!!!
Joined
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8,697 Posts
to test the neutral switch, shift the bike into neutral, unplug the green wire from the trans mission (its kind of underneath the bike infront of the swing arm), set your MultiMeter to Ohms and check the resistance between switch and ground.. preferably the engine block. Meter should read zero or close to it.
 

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Axeman
Joined
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
to test the neutral switch, shift the bike into neutral, unplug the green wire from the trans mission (its kind of underneath the bike infront of the swing arm), set your MultiMeter to Ohms and check the resistance between switch and ground.. preferably the engine block. Meter should read zero or close to it.
Yep...I already tested it and it wasn't working...needed instructions on repair. I surmised that I would have to drain the oil, so I decided to do an unnecessary oil change and pull the switch. The switch reads 1 ohm, and the contact is as clean as the day it came out of the crate, so i am assuming that its not making contact inside. Upon further inspection, i found that the spring-loaded contact wasn't coming all the way out and has almost 1MM of play beyond the spring tension.

Does this sound like i need a new switch?
 
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