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I have a 2001 VN750, and this is my 3rd year of owning it. Every spring it is a bear to start. I maintain the battery all winter (new battery last summer) I put stableizer in the tank, and I keep it in a heated garage. Yet I always drain the battery without actually starting the bike my first time out. I put the choke all the way forward, turn on the petcoc thumb the starter and it WILL NOT START. I just run the starter until the battery is drained.
What is the secret for getting it started?
 

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I have a 2001 VN750, and this is my 3rd year of owning it. Every spring it is a bear to start. I maintain the battery all winter (new battery last summer) I put stableizer in the tank, and I keep it in a heated garage. Yet I always drain the battery without actually starting the bike my first time out. I put the choke all the way forward, turn on the petcoc thumb the starter and it WILL NOT START. I just run the starter until the battery is drained.
What is the secret for getting it started?
Put the choke forward towards the front of the bike, or pull the choke back towards you as you sit on the bike? You'll want the choke pulled back in your direction...but clarify that in case there's something else going on.
 

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I PUSH it forward, toward the headlight while I am in the seat.
I believe that would be turning the choke off which would explain the hard starting problem.

Choke should be pulled towards the rear of the bike when cold.

Check this first as very likely culprit.

Jon
 

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I put the choke all the way forward
it might help if you dont enagage the choke "all the way". i found that for best starting 3/4 choke should be set before the start button pushed and immidiatle adjusted as required when the motor picks up.
at least on my bike that is...

ah yes, to engage the choke you pull it towards you, and turn it off bu pushing forward.
 

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The other thing is you DON"T want to just crank her until the battery is dead or she starts. This will burn out the starter motor and unless you get lucky and find a used one on ebay or the like, a new one runs $400 or so. You should only crank it about 10 seconds at a time and then allow the starter to cool for about 30 seconds before trying again.
One thing you may try for spring starting is to prime the carbs. Chances are they are dry from sitting all winter and it takes awhile for the gas to fill the bowls up to the point where the bike will start. You can either us an alternate vacuum source on the petcock vacuum line to open up the petcock and allow fuel to flow to the carbs before you start, or pull the fuel lines off the petcock and pour some fuel into the lines, filling the carbs. I think you will find it much easier to start once there is fuel in the carbs after a long period of storage.
I use a small hypodermic syringe (no needle) for an alternate vaccume source on the petcock vacuum line and it seems to work just fine. I've used to to check fuel flow coming from the tank with great results.
 

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I couldn't help but notice you said you put "stabilizer" in the tank, but you didn't say it was seafoam. If you're using any other stabilizer, that might be half your problem. In fact, you might want to drain your gas tank and add fresh gas, and about a half can of seafoam, run the bike a little and let it soak to clean up all that "other" stuff that's been in there, likely gumming up some.
 

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If the bike sits for a long time (like months), leave the choke off and push start button and in the first few engine turns simultaneously pull the choke to full, it usually starts much faster this way.
 

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Benjammin'
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I recently fired my bike up after a winter of setting. But- this time was different in that I put Seafoam in it before I put her up last fall. The difference was UNREAL!!! Fired right off after just a coiuple of cranks the first time. A week later, I bet it didn't even turn over a whole crank when it fired up. I am a Seafoam fan now and probably won't leave home without it!
 

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It took me three tries to start mine this year.The first two I gave it some throttle with the choke fully engaged (all the way toward me)and it started for a few seconds and quit.The third time I didnt even touch the throttle and it started and stayed running Then I used the choke to reduce the rpm as the engine warmed.I suggest trying not to use the throttle after your first try.It was hard for me not to.It just seemed natural to give it throttle.
 

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Before you do anything, give the throttle about 3 or 4 "full twists." Then go to full choke and hit the starter. Mine fires right away.
 

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I haven't been in our carbs yet, but I had cv carbs on my kz and twisting the throttle doesn't pump any gas or anything. On our carbs I would assume the same. Why would you twist the throttle a few times? Just curious.
 

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>>>Why would you twist the throttle a few times?<<<<

Well, being a "non-mechanic" I really don't know, except that it works for me. If I leave the bike sit for quite a while it's real stubborn to start. So after trying numerous things, I found that about 3 full twists on the throttle, before touching the starter button, makes it fire right off. I don't have a clue as to why.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Why would you twist the throttle a few times? Just curious.
It's so any Gremlins in the carbs know that the fuel will be flowing soon, so they get the heck outta there, resulting in a better start ! :smiley_th LOL
 

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I've always drained the tank and ran the bike till the carbs were empty.Then in the spring just put fresh gas in with a bottle of dry gas and she's always started right off.But after hearing everyone here talk about the seefoam I think I'll try that next winter.I use the seefoam deep creep penetrating lube all the time so I know they make good stuff,just never tried there additive.
 

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I usually push back the boots and give a shot of quick start spray in the carbs to get the juices flowing after storage.
 

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HAWK
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I've always drained the tank and ran the bike till the carbs were empty.Then in the spring just put fresh gas in with a bottle of dry gas and she's always started right off.But after hearing everyone here talk about the seefoam I think I'll try that next winter.I use the seefoam deep creep penetrating lube all the time so I know they make good stuff,just never tried there additive.
I would not recomend draining the tank. Rust forms with the presents of Oxygen, if the tank is full of gas there is no Oxygen so it is imposable for rust to form.
Yes Seafoam will keep your gas clean and not jelling up or varnishing.
Put it in the gas in the fall and run the bike to get it in the carbs.
My Snow blower and lawn mower start right up after being stored.
 

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My 2Cents...I leave fuel / stabilizer in the tank all winter and usually fire the engine up every 3 weeks (if the temp isn't too low). I don't apply any choke on the first crank and she usually fires right up and I'm able to apply the choke full on before is starts to slow down. Soon as she gets the choke, it stays running until I hit the kill switch. I used to apply full choke from the get-go and had an awful time starting...this is way better.
 
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