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Old Twistie Sticks Rider
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One other question. I had a difficult time reinstalling the left side shock. All of a sudden the shock was too short!?
FR, I can't understand that left side shock shortening, it has a spring that should have kept it extended...
Does it have a bit of air pressure...??? Could it have something broken that could have someway made a one way valve and created a vaccum...???
I'm kinda interested in an answer to this also, sorry I couldn't give you an answer, just more questions...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
 
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I had some problems with that two. It wasn't majorly shorter but enough to make things a little difficult. Like soon as one was one it changed things enough. I think ended up putting them on at the same time, I just held one shock in each hand and sat down on the floor behind the bike and put them on simulatiniously
 

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Gents, the splines are not that hard to do, the rear wheel will come off in 15 minutes, need a long nose snap ring pliers, some brake cleaner and and some new grease, i use blue wheel bearing grease myself.
The book is way off on wheel removal, i think i drop the passengerside muffler with a couple of 10 mm bolts and the shock at the top, remove brake cable and hub bolt, and thats pretty much it. Dis assemble the shaft for service. I do mine every other tire, about 20,000 miles.
They charge about $200.00 in most shops for that.
I do it in my shop in a hour or so with tire change, use a press to break the bead and some tire irons with rim protectors.
I agree though, if you dont have place to do it, it is very awkward.
 

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so when I did my splines I didn't remove the snap ring. is that gonna be a prob? when I did mine the main spline actually had decent amount of lube in there and no rust. especially considering that the bike is 2000.
 

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I cant rember totally, getting ready to do mine again in a few weeks at 30,000 miles, i think the snap ring needs to come out where the two work together for lubrication, i removed mine the first time but not the second, you might want to next time, might save a lock up and some exstra money in repairs.
 

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so when I did my splines I didn't remove the snap ring. is that gonna be a prob? when I did mine the main spline actually had decent amount of lube in there and no rust. especially considering that the bike is 2000.
It should only be a problem on the part that didn't get lubed.
 

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The snap ring is up inside the coupler and keeps it attached to the drive shaft, and does not need to be removed unless you are replacing the coupling on the end of the drive shaft. This is a non-moving connection and wouldn't need to be lubed other than what might get in there just from squeezing moly into the coupling on a standard spline lube. If you look at the writeup you will see that I put a new coupler on the drive shaft because of the nearly worn off teeth inside.

I know that last time I did the spline lube on my bike I didn't loosen the right exhaust bolts but I have cruisers on the bike now and maybe they hang differently. I don't remember why or if I actually needed to loosen the exhaust bolts but it is in my writeup and might have been a carry over from the write up I followed when I shot that one. Seems like if you put a 2x12 under the bike and stand it on that, you get enough clearance without needing to loosen the exhaust bolts. There were a few writeups before mine, but just without photos. I like photos...
 

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yeah. I seem to remember that from your write up and that's why I didn't bother with the coupling. cuz the teeth were good and there wasn't any rust on the main area of the coupling.
 

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At Least I Can Spell!
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Happy to report my splines are lubed with plenty-o-moly 60.
Taking my time, reading Fergy's sweet instructions I printed and took to the garage, it was a 2 hour job. The teeth were dry but there was no rust and no damage.

Excellent! :smiley_th

No smashed fingers, no screaming obscenities, a real money saving event with 100% success. Hardest part (other than getting my hands clean) was getting the the wheel to line up to the drive when putting it back on, but that was it!

This was followed by capping the reed valves with the 5/8" rubber caps from Advance Auto (thanks Cliff!). I'll tweak the mixture and that outa do it! :)
 

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Hardest part (other than getting my hands clean) was getting the the wheel to line up to the drive when putting it back on, but that was it!
Ditto on the line up. Wally Mart sells latex gloves by the box. I use 'em to keep hands clean when doing mechanic stuff.
 

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Old Twistie Sticks Rider
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Wally Mart sells latex gloves by the box. I use 'em to keep hands clean when doing mechanic stuff.
Ha,ha, its bad to get old, CRS again, I even had a box in the garage and didn't think of them, and that moly does leave things real messy and hard to clean off too...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
 
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