Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Trying to lube the splines. Fergy's video won't load, the pics some have posted give an error message. Really need to see what I need to do as oposed to what I've done so far.

At the point of breaking stuff to make stuff work.

Help!!!!


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Shaft isn't releasing from the final drive. Also not sure if I need to take the bevel gear case off or not.

If that's not enough, went to the Honda dealer to get the grease just in case I did get it to come apart. They're out.

I need to start this day all over again.
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
not sure if I need to take the bevel gear case off or not.
Bevel gear doesn`t need to come off.


Shaft isn't releasing from the final drive.
There are 4 bolts holding driveshaft tube onto the final drive. The one at the lower back side is halfway hidden, and could be missed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Got all four off. It's like the coupler is frozen the shaft.

I think what's really got me pissed now is 4 dealers around here and none have any Honda or other brand of 60 Moly grease.

Makes me really wonder what they'd used if I took it to them to do. So it's gonna be Monday evening at best if I can find the proper grease.

Got a house full of kids visiting too. My nerves are shot. I've seen way too many people riding today. At this point I think alcohol is the answer.

Thanks for the replies, I'll check back again.
 

·
Sparky!!!
Joined
·
8,697 Posts
go check NAPA and see if they have some molly grease... I know ours here has some. Secondly, it sound like your shaft is stuck to the bevel gear, take a hammer and try to lightly tap the shaft off...you might need to clamp on a pair of vice grips to tap on.
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
A local independant auto and motorcycle mechanic, who has been a rider for ~40 years, suggests using *constant velocity joint* lube. I can`t find a % of moly content though. I checked on prices a year or so ago, and you can buy little plastic bags of the lube w/o actually buying a cv joint or boot. As I recall, the smallest bag could be had for as little as $5, and there is enough to do several spline lube jobs.

Link with some generic spline lube info.
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Shaft.html

Quote from above link. Bolding and highlighting are mine.
The drive splines get surprisingly hot. Additionally, there's a lot of pressure on the splines and a lot of back and forth sliding motion. Any liquid type of grease will quickly be squeezed out of the splines, and leave you with no protection. The first time you remove your rear tire, you will likely find that the factory grease has dried out completely and solidified into something which does not even remotely resemble a lubricant. Actually, if it's a good Moly grease, it's still doing its job in this form, but it's not a pretty sight.

Honda specifies a spline grease which is 60% molybdenum disulfide ("moly"). Moly is a dry lubricant which bonds to the metal surfaces, offering lubrication properties even when the parts have squeezed everything liquid out. A lot of greases now say "Moly" on the container, but you must be careful about this. Ford and Caterpillar specify moly greases for particular applications, but the requirement is for 3% moly, not even close to the 60% requirement of Honda. It's not enough to buy a moly grease, what you really want is basically dry moly in a grease-like carrier which makes it easier to apply.

These days, most BMW shops seem to be using the Honda moly paste on drive splines. I have no idea what Kawasaki, Yamaha, or Suzuki dealers are doing, but if it's anything like what most Honda dealers are doing, it's simply not acceptable. My informal survey of Honda shops, backed up by observations from several other riders, has convinced me that essentially none of them use Moly-60. They use the cheapest brake and drive shaft grease they can buy. If you let a dealer or shop change your rear tire, be certain they are using Moly-60 paste or Krytox, or you're going to be needing new drive splines in about 50,000 miles. Guaranteed. I recommend you remove and replace your own wheels, leaving the spline cleaning and lubrication up to you. If you want nothing to do with this, then I recommend you have a talk with your favorite mechanic before tires come up, and buy your own tube of lubricant if necessary.

Moly greases with 60% + molybdenum disulfide content:
Honda Moly 60 paste, $9 for 3oz, pn 08734-0001 at your Honda dealer, or $8 from Kim Leong, STOC 3073, California Sport Touring.


LocTite Moly paste, 65% molybdenum disulfide. $20 for an 8oz tube from Enco, part #505-1197, 800-873-3626


TS-70 Moly Paste, 4 oz. ctg. $14 from TSMoly. (800) 508-5545



An alternative to moly is the new poly-flourinated lubricants made by DuPont called Krytox Teflon Bearing Grease.
These chemicals are simply magic. They have almost no known solvents, are chemically inert, and don't burn at any temperature, even in a pure oxygen atmosphere. This is pretty clearly the only grease to use. See this article. Nascar mechanics have found that Krytox grease can reduce the temperature of spline joints on drive shafts by 150°. Also, this stuff lasts forever. It is, unfortunately, quite expensive.
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
Got all four off. It's like the coupler is frozen the shaft.
go check NAPA and see if they have some molly grease... I know ours here has some. Secondly, it sound like your shaft is stuck to the bevel gear, take a hammer and try to lightly tap the shaft off...you might need to clamp on a pair of vice grips to tap on.
slim, it sounded to me like he can`t separate the final drive from the drive shaft, not the bevel gear splines. Those don`t have much back and forth movement and don`t pump the grease out like the rear splines do.

But your mention of the bevel gear is a good reminder to pry back the boot and spray some white lithium grease on those splines and the u-joint too.:smiley_th
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
Got this from a 2 year old post:
Got my moly 60 paste in the mail today! This is the cheapest place I found on the web and they had fast shipping too!

Moly 60 Paste from California Sport Touring, Inc.
http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CST&Product_Code=23500&Category_Code=

Ordered it on 6/23 and received it today 6/26, just three days from Cali to Kentucky.

8.98 for the 3oz tube and 5.70 for shipping. Gonna pick the o-ring up the parts store tomorrow and plan on doing the spline lube sometime in the next week!
The o-ring needed for the pinion gear is Kawi p/n 92055.
I think someone here found a cheaper replacement at the hardware store.

Should be my last post on this thread now.:blah::blah::blah:

EDIT: Re-reading this old thread and realized I posted only 92055 which is the prefix for all Kawi O-ring part numbers.
The complete number is 92055-1044 for the final drive pinion splines o-ring. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the replies. :)

Worst part is working two jobs. Really cuts down on free time to work on this.

I did wind up taking off the entire swing arm, final drive still attached to the drive shaft. Had taken a rubber mallet to the drive assembly. Not actually hitting it as hard as I'd like too, I thing that piece is still good. Been spraying wd-40 on it while it's been hanging upright hoping it runs down into the coupler. I think that's where the problem is with that.

Also spun the drive on the bevel case (bike in nuetral) and could here a small clunk when I started to spin it. Really think that was my initial problem.

As my luck would have it, there was a person that had a bike for sale here on craigslist for 500 bucks, but needed carb work. Figured I could take the bevel case assemebly on back, swing arm included and get mine running. Then maybe get my old drive line apart, and fix the carbs on the donor bike and get it running enough to sell. But I just checked and it's not listed anymore.

Looks like ebay and I are going to become good friends. But not till I can get the final drive and shaft apart to see what all I need.

I'll try to keep my progress (hopefully) posted, but again two jobs are just killing me for free time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Got this from a 2 year old post:


The o-ring needed for the pinion gear is Kawi p/n 92055.
I think someone here found a cheaper replacement at the hardware store.

Should be my last post on this thread now.:blah::blah::blah:
Funny thing about orings. When I rebuilt my starter, I got an oring from a Delta faucet repair kit from home depot. I'll have to check but that may be the same part number. If so, I have extra.

Would highly recommend to anyone if it's possible to take the old oring for any part to a hardware store before ordering it from a dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Looking at the positives of all this, I am glad I took off the swing arm. They were getting rusty and while one came out easily, the other didn't. Don't know that I'd take it off again, but it will be in a lot better shape.

Did a quick ebay check and I can find everything but the final drive for about 150 bucks shipped.

Also saw a complete assembly for a 1500 for 100 bucks shipped. :rolleyes:

Anyone know if a chrome swingarm cover from a 1500 will fit out bikes? Thought about making an offer on that part alone. Might as well make it look good while I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts

·
Sparky!!!
Joined
·
8,697 Posts
Looking at the positives of all this, I am glad I took off the swing arm. They were getting rusty and while one came out easily, the other didn't. Don't know that I'd take it off again, but it will be in a lot better shape.

Did a quick ebay check and I can find everything but the final drive for about 150 bucks shipped.

Also saw a complete assembly for a 1500 for 100 bucks shipped. :rolleyes:

Anyone know if a chrome swingarm cover from a 1500 will fit out bikes? Thought about making an offer on that part alone. Might as well make it look good while I can.
it might work, I don't know with out seeing what you are talking about... the little chrome disk, the drive shaft cover, or a chrome piece that goes over the whole swing arm.

If you are looking for a shaft cover, one can be made very easily with chrome or ss exhaust tubing for realativly cheap... just get a piece of tubing 1 size bigger than that needed to slip over the drive shaft part of the swing arm, cut a strip out of the back side of the tubing, and place tubing over the drive shaft. Secure it as shown in the pics to fallow.

as a side not on this little project... you might want to find some thin rubber (like an old inner tube), or use RTV to make a vibration dampener to go between the cover and the swing arm, (especially by the clamp areas).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Scooter, did you try and contact Fergy to ask about the link being unavailable? I too am contemplating the spline lube and am now sore at myself for not grabbing the information when I first came across it a couple of months back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
it might work, I don't know with out seeing what you are talking about... the little chrome disk, the drive shaft cover, or a chrome piece that goes over the whole swing arm.
Typing too fast at work.

The chrome pieces that actually go into the swing arm bearings. Had to take care of the wifes new car (oil change) last night, so no chance to work on it. Maybe tonight I'll get to.

I did some pricing on ebay just in case. I can get a swingarm, bevel case and driveshaft for about 150 bucks. But if the final drive won't come off, that's about 175 bucks more.

As much of a pain in the butt as this has been, I'd still say it's a good bike. First time I've pulled apart the back end of a street bike, and it wasn't really that hard. Minor stuff, but I think that's just my luck on anything.


Gandalv, it's really not that hard. I think I just have the exception to the rule. My advice would be to have the grease first. :doh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Hadn't contacted Fergy, but did read quite a few other posts to get an idea of what to expect. Unfortunately, none of them ran into this so I wasn't sure if I missed something. Had the coupler released itself from the final drive, it would have been just like the write ups have been.

It's a lot easier to laugh about it now. But I think I may have taught a few kids some words they wouldn't have otherwise known.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Made a little progress this evening. Got the drive shaft off the coupler. It appears to be in fine shape. So at this point I can scratch the swing arm and drive shaft off the need list. Getting the coupler off the final drive is the next problem. I am correct that it does come off, right? Doused it pretty good with more wd-40 and we'll see what tomorrow evening brings.
 
1 - 20 of 59 Posts
Top