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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this volt meter\usb charger waterproof deal. It has a switch on the back and comes within inline fuse. Cool. it was like $9 shipped months back.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Charger-Voltmeter-Switch-JARDLI/dp/B01K9JI1CK/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1491093529&sr=8-19&keywords=voltmeter+usb

So...I obviously could connect straight to battery with the on\off switch BUT I am wondering if any of the accessory wiring would give true battery voltage so I could forgo using the switch. I understand connecting to the headlight just gives a lower than true voltage.

There's a bunch of threads of the subject - I just don't understand if any of the wires or relay would have actual voltage or if the difference you just remember is a constant difference or changes based on load, hi-beam etc.,

When it comes to wiring - I'm a little dumb. I think I need a 'connect it the purple' wire type direction.
 

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Retired USAF (IYAAYAS)
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Good timing on your thread as I also want to know the same basic info for a voltage meter I have still coming (no fuse or switch). Additionally, I will be wiring up an adapter that the GPS will utilize as per the old sticky thread that ASBRAND made a few years back. But I want to do that and the voltage meter at the same time (not same place). I'm not concerned about the adapter part of the project but where to power the voltage meter is a question that I, too, still have after reading the myriad of thread entries saying here or there. A more-electrically minded person, or two, will hopefully answer our mutual question.
 

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I can't offer a lot on the accessory wire or the headlight bucket wire, I've never tested those. But those wires have to be close to battery voltage or they would be almost useless for anything but a light.

Have mine connected to the battery and I still see fluctuations with turn signals, high/low beam, etc. It's the same in almost any vehicle.

100% accuracy on voltage isn't so important as long as you can see that it's charging. For instance, you wouldn't want to leave home for a 100 mile trip if you see the voltage is lower than when the bike wasn't running. Or, you're riding along and see the voltage has dropped into a discharge reading, then you know it's time to head home instead of doing that extra 50 miles. Either wire (acc. or bucket) should be close enough to monitor the charging, unless we start a stator output contest. :)

I'd say hook it up where you want to, you can always change it if not happy. I like going to the battery, but if you want it switched by the key, one of the other two are the options you have. That inline fuse makes it nice for a direct battery connection.

One problem with switching through the key, you can't charge a phone or use a device without having the key on. You can probably charge phones for days before the battery would be dead.

Find your favorite hot wire, positive goes there. The ground can go anywhere there is a ground, a bolt almost anywhere will be grounded, unless it's threaded into plastic. Any additional switching, just needs one wire to pass though the switch, and that can be a hot or ground. Mine is switched on the ground side, it just makes one less wire that can get shorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
thats helpful - thanks!

according to KM in post below, the accessory leads are actually live and not tied to ignition switch which I didn't realize. I assumed accessory leads were like headlight with less load.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/162727-post65.html
 

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thats helpful - thanks!
You're quite welcome.

If someone could clarify......

Isn't one of the wire locations hot all the time? The headlight bucket or the accessory wire under the right side cover?
 

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Yes, both are hot all the time. I've tested mine recently. I am adding a bunch of LEDs, volt meter and USB port as soon as it gets warm enough for long enough, around here.

If you want it to turn on and off with the ignition then all you need is a SPST relay switch. They are cheap and easy to use.
 

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Perhaps I am missing the point on a simple concept. When you open the physical headlight bucket/housing, (which I haven't done yet to see) there is one set of wiring going to the headlight, (which is being referred to as the headlight bucket) and one other set of wiring referred to as the accessary wires (not talking about any wiring under the right side cover). Is this correct? I can see how the accessary wires can be hot all the time but the headlight too? The headlight is controlled by the ignition switch is it not?
 

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I think I missed that the discussion above was speaking of both ACCESSORY sets as being live all the time. If that's the case I understand that. The headlight is switched by the ignition key. I was getting confused.
 
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Perhaps I am missing the point on a simple concept. When you open the physical headlight bucket/housing, (which I haven't done yet to see) there is one set of wiring going to the headlight, (which is being referred to as the headlight bucket) and one other set of wiring referred to as the accessary wires (not talking about any wiring under the right side cover). Is this correct? I can see how the accessary wires can be hot all the time but the headlight too? The headlight is controlled by the ignition switch is it not?
If the headlight hasn't had the blue wire mod, it only gets power after the engine starts.

If the blue wire mod is done, the headlight gets power as soon as the key is turned on.
 

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No such blue wire mod here. Gidaeon, are your questions answered? Mine are.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All set. I went with direct to battery for now (existing cig lighter already routed in place).
 

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If your voltmeter is connected direct to the battery...

1. It won't be fused unless you install an inline fuse yourself.

2. If you don't have a switch to turn it off, it will drain your battery. The one I used only used 0.05ma ...which isn't enough to drain your battery unless you don't run the bike for 8 weeks. Back lit voltmeters use more power.

3. If you do install a switch...the odds of you forgetting to turn it off may be an issue.

4. Many wire their voltmeter to the front running lights...these turn of with the ignition switch and save the money and time needed to wire in a relay. You can of course wire direct to the battery but trigger the relay off the running lights.

5. I do suggest using a fuse if you're not using a fused circuit.
 

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gidaen's meter came with a fuse and a switch built in.
 

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Has anyone seen this?

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Charger-Voltmeter-Universal-Motorcycle/dp/B01M4OKBSB/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504052726&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=motorcycle+analog+voltmeter#Ask

Looks pretty sweet and saves a step when adding usb and voltmeter. I saw one version where someone wired a usb port where the neck reflector used to be. That could work cool for this if it's deep enough. (I think it's deeper on the left side of the bike that the right side.)

Thoughts? Concerns?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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looks cool

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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4. Many wire their voltmeter to the front running lights...these turn of with the ignition switch and save the money and time needed to wire in a relay. You can of course wire direct to the battery but trigger the relay off the running lights.
Finally getting around to this project. I like your idea wiring the USB/voltmeter through the running lights to have it turn off with the ignition. I see on the wiring diagram that the signals have blue, gray, and black/yellow wires. Any idea which one is the running lights?
 

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Your Blue wire at the front turn signals has voltage when the ignition is on. Black/Yellow is the ground.


Thanks! I rewired the whole rear end, but it worked on the first try, so no need to go get a voltmeter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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