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Discussion Starter #1
95' VN750 American
So recently posted about some wiring questions about the IC's but was able to figure them out. But, currently all i have left is to Add oil after replacing a gasket, install carbeurator, install fuel tank, finish assembly of last cooling system hoses and fill cooling system, and air system. Other than that i have rewired and connected everything up including a new wiring harness which i have inspected for any nicks/exposed wires.
I have been checking for a few days turning the key over to test my new lights or even have the speedometer light up. But nothing, even when i take the turn signal switch to left/right the audible click from the relay isn't heard
ive checked the battery and its at a steady 13vdc and i have a maintainer that is keeping it charged.
Request any ideas im kind of stumped at the moment to what is wrong
i mean maybe the oil pressure switch is causing it to short straight to ground but i do not know.
If anyone would like me to take any test point with my multimeter or gather any data im willing too.
im mostly looking for ideas what i could be doing wrong or if someone has an idea of what would cause it to be completely dead electric
 

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The following is what I would do to start-

W/key off, check for power at the main fuse. If yes-

Check for power on the W (white) wire at the ignition switch, key off. If yes-

Pull a R wire off one ign coil and check for power, or power at Y/R on the starter relay. Key on, starter button pushed.

Bring the answers back here.

edit- all your fuses are good, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So with key off main fuse I'm assuming is the 30 fuse bottom right 12.03 vpc
White wire on ignition switch 12.09
IC red 12.04
Y/R starter with and with out start button and either configuration of the run/off button reads 12.01
And all fuses are good
 

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Y/R starter with and with out start button and either configuration of the run/off button reads 12.01
You are talking about the Y/R wire plugged into the starter relay, right? If so, unplug it until we find why it has power. Once unplugged test to see if the key turns it off/on. If the key controls it, we will move to the right handlebar controls connector. Leave it disconnected.

I wonder why the starter was not engaged? Might as well go ahead and jump across the two large cables on the solenoid and see if it cranks. Make sure it is in neutral.
 

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You are talking about the Y/R wire plugged into the starter relay, right? If so, unplug it until we find why it has power. Once unplugged test to see if the key turns it off/on. If the key controls it, we will move to the right handlebar controls connector. Leave it disconnected.

I wonder why the starter was not engaged? Might as well go ahead and jump across the two large cables on the solenoid and see if it cranks. Make sure it is in neutral.
well looking at the diagrams the only way Y/R wire has power... the starter button is making constant contact, or his IC is backfeeding power (which it shouldn't do because of its diodes, but still possible).
 

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well looking at the diagrams the only way Y/R wire has power... the starter button is making constant contact, or his IC is backfeeding power (which it shouldn't do because of its diodes, but still possible).
Yes, except for one thing. If I read his post correctly, the Y/R wire has power with the off/run in either position. This powers the start button.

We are on the same page.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thank you for the ideas ill be looking into it some more today my plan is to finish everything up thise weekend and ill look into the y/r wire again and make sure of my indications.
also my rear Ignition Coil may be wired backwards i was having trouble finding a picture to show which lead goes to which point on the IC's and the picture i did find had the IC positioned differently physically from the orientation on my model so that maybe it if someone could send me a picture of there IC's on a 95' 750 American version it might Help clarify that
 

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Thank you for the ideas ill be looking into it some more today my plan is to finish everything up thise weekend and ill look into the y/r wire again and make sure of my indications.
also my rear Ignition Coil may be wired backwards i was having trouble finding a picture to show which lead goes to which point on the IC's and the picture i did find had the IC positioned differently physically from the orientation on my model so that maybe it if someone could send me a picture of there IC's on a 95' 750 American version it might Help clarify that
Not sure of this but, I don't believe it matters.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Discussion Starter #11
well looking at the diagrams the only way Y/R wire has power... the starter button is making constant contact, or his IC is backfeeding power (which it shouldn't do because of its diodes, but still possible).
so just redid the test power goes away when the key is in the off position for the y/r wire but the switch i took it apart even took the switch out of the whole thing and it is still reading the 12vdc to frame ground
and also when i disconnected the y/r wire from the starter motor it still had the 12vdc
but when disconnecting from the fuse box it does go away and returns when installation of another fuse box
 

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You are talking about the Y/R wire plugged into the starter relay, right? If so, unplug it until we find why it has power. Once unplugged test to see if the key turns it off/on. If the key controls it, we will move to the right handlebar controls connector. Leave it disconnected.

I wonder why the starter was not engaged? Might as well go ahead and jump across the two large cables on the solenoid and see if it cranks. Make sure it is in neutral.
W/O punctuation, your posts are hard to read.

I think we are back to my quoted post above. See if the engine cranks as noted above.

I would leave the JB plugged in, key on, neutral, no start button pushed and test for current at the 10 pin (smallest) connector. Test the Y/R and BK wires. If there is no power to the BK, but there is power to the Y/R, the JB is bad.

If there is power to both, you will have to move to the right handlebar control connector. It is a 6 pin connector and you will need to probe for current on the R, Y/R and BK wire with the stop/run switch in both positions. This is the test for what Slim was talking about.

Get back to us.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Sorry about the Punctuation.
I am currently not at a point where i can crank the engine. There is no oil in the engine. no carburetor , no fuel tank, and the coolant system is not fully plugged in(or filled)
i can get back to here with the test points tomorrow
 
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