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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I got my carb in the mail yesterday and after a good bit of cursing, got the freaking thing in. Actually it was the air box part that was a serious pain in the booty. Anyway, the choke cable was difficult to get on as well and I have a few questions about its operation.

When I'm starting up a cold bike, do I want the choke lever to be closer to me or further away? In other words, the triangle graphic on the side of the choke represents more choke as the lever is away from you and less choke the closer it gets to you right?

It started with the lever in either position, but the less choke position (pulled closer to me), caused the engine to race, it seemed, to about 3 or 4k rpms. Maybe something needs to be adjusted there?

Also, when the choke is all the way let out and the cable is at its longest point, the two plungers on the carb don't go all the way in, is that right? It seemed like the choke lever should be able to operate those plungers through their full range of motion, but instead the only go about half way in. Is that right?

Thanks!
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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I'm not really sure on how much the lever should operate the plungers, but I can say, you pull the lever towards you when starting cold, and push away from you when you're ready to go (push forward to go forward).
 

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The choke is on when you pull it towards you and off when away from you. The triangle I suppose is meant to represent an arrowhead: 'this way for more choke'.

When the choke is off, the plungers on the carbs should go all the way in, with some free play before pulling the choke lever starts to pull them out.

Edit:
That't what happens when you write in a foreign language - someone is faster than you!
 

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It will race/run faster with the choke closed, (towards you), that's normal.

Just hang around and push the lever forward a bit at a time, to keep the engine speed down while it's warming up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the plungers on the carbs should go all the way in, with some free play
Is the little screw part on the cable at the handle the only way the adjust the choke? Seems like I've got the bugger screwed all the way in and there's not enough slack. Also it's got a fair amount of binding going on in the casing of the cable, would that effect the amount of slack I could get some one of way? If I was goin to lube my cables, what would the best lube be? I've got some spray on lube, would that work or should I use a petroleum lube like sewing machine oil or something else? I don't have one of those cable lubers, how can I make due on a non-existant budget?
 

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take the handle bare end lose and make a funnel around the cable housing with tin foil and tape around the small end of your makeshift funnel and point the big end up and secure it to the handlebars out away from the rest of the bike ,because this will leak some in spite of every effort you make to seal it.fill your fancy homemade funnel with penetrating oil of your favorite brand and hope it seeps down the cable hosing around the inner cable. if that doesn't work take the whole cable off and soak it in whatever,I have put them in the bath tub and used hot soapy water and worked the cable back and forth and all kind of gunk will come out of it then hang it up and let it dry real good for a day or two and proceed to lube the cable,before you go to all this trouble just make sure the cable isn't twisted or kinked any where.I know it sounds like it is a lot of work but poor folks have poor ways ,Denny
 

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Nobody mentioned it but it seems to me that 3-4K is way too high on the rpms. Full choke on should bring you up to 2,000 rpm. You may have it too tight.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Nobody mentioned it but it seems to me that 3-4K is way too high on the rpms. Full choke on should bring you up to 2,000 rpm. You may have it too tight.
Once my bike's warmed up, if I have it on full choke it'll reach 2800-3200 rpms. Before it's warmed I have to let off some choke to keep it at 2000.

Maybe mines a lil' tight too, but it's always been like that and seems to work fine otherwise. Although, as I said, I never really looked at the plungers :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
take the handle bare end lose and make a funnel around the cable housing with tin foil and tape around the small end of your makeshift funnel and point the big end up and secure it to the handlebars out away from the rest of the bike ,because this will leak some in spite of every effort you make to seal it.fill your fancy homemade funnel with penetrating oil of your favorite brand and hope it seeps down the cable hosing around the inner cable. if that doesn't work take the whole cable off and soak it in whatever,I have put them in the bath tub and used hot soapy water and worked the cable back and forth and all kind of gunk will come out of it then hang it up and let it dry real good for a day or two and proceed to lube the cable,before you go to all this trouble just make sure the cable isn't twisted or kinked any where.I know it sounds like it is a lot of work but poor folks have poor ways ,Denny
I have a gallon of wd-40, is that a penetrating oil? People always tell me that wd-40 isn't a lubricant, though. Should I use an additional lubricant?
 

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Since no-one who knows better answered..

I use the same oils as for the engine. Works just fine for me.

For a rusted cable, I have removed the cable from the bike, run penetrating oil through the cable and push/pull the wire rope at the same time to get as much dirt as possible out of the cable. Let dry several days, then lubricate with motor oil. Some say motor oil will collect dirt, but as I said, it works for me. Others might say that if it is rusted get a new one.
 

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The Reanimater
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One of the best oils I found to lube/clean a cable with is Type F Transmission Fluid.
 

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D2u
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A cable luber is like $6.00,or $7.00 at most bike shops,and a spray can of wd40 is all you need to lube your cables.:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #13
A cable luber is like $6.00,or $7.00 at most bike shops
I just went to a local bike shop yesterday and they priced a cable luber at $22! Sure, it comes with the can of fancy cable lube, but why would they want so much for it? The guy went into detail about the differences with the ones that have one screw and the ones with two screws. I told him I would wait on it.
 

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I just went to a local bike shop yesterday and they priced a cable luber at $22! The guy went into detail about the ones that have one screw and the ones with two screws. I told him I would wait on it.
How badly does he think the customers need to be screwed?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When the choke is off, the plungers on the carbs should go all the way in, with some free play before pulling the choke lever starts to pull them out.
Well, I played with the choke cable today and managed to accidentally disconnect one of the choke plungers from the little carb linkage fork (while the carb is installed on the bike) and so I can see that the choke lever pulls the choke out at least a cm when it's in it's full choke *off* position. So I cursed up a storm and tried to get it back on without taking the carb off. That didn't work too well. So I cursed some more and went ahead and did it to the other side too. So now my choke is totally not working at all.

On the plus side, I was having a problem with it that has now totally cleared up: before, when the bike was fully warmed up and the clutch lever all the way towards me in the off position, there was still a full cm of choke plunger sticking out of the carb and when I went to open up the throttle, if I went too fast it would kill the bike. I had to ease the throttle open very slowly in order to prevent it from killing. Now it seems to work just like it should, with very good throttle response.

So, a.) do I need the choke? It seems like it starts fine without it. It's about 90 degrees outside right now. b.) if I need it, how can I get the plungers back on those little forks without pulling the carb and associated air box stuff? c.) is it possible that my choke cable is too small? I put a carb from an '88 into my 2000 vulcan, perhaps they have different choke cables or choke levers or something?


I'm pretty stumped.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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So, a.) do I need the choke? It seems like it starts fine without it. It's about 90 degrees outside right now. b.) if I need it, how can I get the plungers back on those little forks without pulling the carb and associated air box stuff? c.) is it possible that my choke cable is too small? I put a carb from an '88 into my 2000 vulcan, perhaps they have different choke cables or choke levers or something?


I'm pretty stumped.
I'd have to say YES, you need a choke. You'll have a heck of a time getting the bike started when it cools off a bit. Unless you plan on riding only when it's that hot out.
As for you having a shorter choke cable from the older bike....I doubt it, I would check to see if you have it routed properly...no sharp bends or kinks. As straight as possible.
 

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the doctor
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supa... choke is off when pushed away from you, arrow indicates how open the choke is small arrow = little ; large amount of arrow = full choke.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
supa... choke is off when pushed away from you, arrow indicates how open the choke is small arrow = little ; large amount of arrow = full choke.
when the choke lever is fully in the off position, what is the position of the plungers that are controlled directly by the choke lever and cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As for you having a shorter choke cable from the older bike....I doubt it, I would check to see if you have it routed properly...no sharp bends or kinks. As straight as possible.
Yep, it seems to be routed as straight as it can go. Also as far as I can tell, the only way to adjust it is the screw part on the cable, right where it hangs from the handle, right? I have that bit all the way screwed in so that there's as much slack as can be.
 

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The Professor
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when the choke lever is fully in the off position, what is the position of the plungers that are controlled directly by the choke lever and cable?
Plungers are down in the off position. :beerchug:
 
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