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Discussion Starter #1
It's no secret that I'm not some big time mechanic.... but I can figure out the simpler things most of the time. If it is straightforward I can usually fumble my way through it. Having said that.... Houston we have a problem.

So I replaced the regular battery in my 750 with a brand new AGM battery like a month ago, right after I got the bike. A couple days ago she left me stranded and would not start. It turned over once or twice but then just clicking. I decided the battery was dead and had to call someone to come jump me. I got her back home after the jump but when I stopped to back into my spot to park her she just died.

Yesterday I had enough scratch to get a battery charger and I charged the battery up. The battery seems to have charged ok and it now sitting here with a full charge on it ready to go back in the bike.

Obviously I am VERY hesitant about riding her anywhere since she stranded be but I would love to figure out why the battery seems to have lost its charge or why it didn't keep its charge.

The only thing I have changed since then is to add the Kaw saddlebag/signal relocation kit to the bike. The extenders I added are both hooked up the same and they are insulated so that a ground out would not be possible.

Where do I start?
:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the bike was doing good and all I did was change the battery, rewire some lights, I would check for parasitic drain first. Then check the charging system.
To be honest with you, I don't know if the bike was going good. I just purchased it from a sketchy looking guy. Sorry for my ignorance but what is a parasitic drain?
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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I'll have to see if I can hunt one down cheap. Money is pretty tight right now! I do have a multimeter, couldn't I just check to see if the bike is making 12v?
Absolutely. Now we are getting somewhere.

Charge the bat and install it. Test for voltage, key off. Should be 12.6v or higher, fully charged. At idle, should be about the same or a little higher. At 4k rpm's it should read 14-15v.

cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Battery draining itself with the key off. While parked, etc, all the time.

edit-the only reason I would check this first, it is easy to do with test light or VOM. Probably going to be the charging system, dunno.
Oh that makes sense, like a parasite!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Absolutely. Now we are getting somewhere.

Charge the bat and install it. Test for voltage, key off. Should be 12.6v or higher, fully charged. At idle, should be about the same or a little higher. At 4k rpm's it should read 14-15v.

cool.
I'll go check this out and let you know what I find. When you say test for voltage, can I just do that on the battery posts?
 

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Absolutely. Now we are getting somewhere.

Charge the bat and install it. Test for voltage, key off. Should be 12.6v or higher, fully charged. At idle, should be about the same or a little higher. At 4k rpm's it should read 14-15v.

cool.
x2 While doing this I would check the cable connections to the battery and especially the two ground connections. The negative cable from the battery to the frame and the cable from the battery box to the engine. If all is well I would re-check your new lights wiring.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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since you have a voltmeter read this thread
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24093

if you check for ac voltage at the stator wires as in the outline in that thread you will eliminate the possibility of loose/corroded grounds. A simple voltage test at the battery will tell you if it is charging or not. Remember to test it with the engine running at 3k RPMS or better when you test the battery voltage test with the engine on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The grounds seem sound, if there were grounding issues the bike would not even start at all right? At minimum my Fluke Multi-meter would report a poor ground. I did double check all connections on the extended lines for signal relocation and they are sound, and unmarred. The insulation on the whole run is perfect. The connections are very tight and are completely sheathed in rubber.

Here is what I found from the Multimeter testing:

  • :confused:Battery charged, NOT installed in bike: 13.30v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, key NOT ON: 13.28v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, key ON: 12.65v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, idle: 12.50v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, 1K RPM: 12.52v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, 2K RPM: 12.54v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, 3K RPM: 12.59v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, 4K RPM: 12.65v
  • :confused:Battery installed on bike, 5K RPM: 12.xx (Voltage was not steady)
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I'd check the r&r connections first.minewent through 2 that had bad terminals on the positive wire.was doing the same thing as yours. bought new r&r and problem solved.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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First disconnect the white plug with 6 wires from the R/R (rectifier/regulator) behind the left side cover and look closely to see if the plug is clean and in good shape. They've been known to burn a bit. If it looks good and the contacts are clean plug it back in before doing the following test.

Behind the left side cover there are 3 yellow wires (they are 3 of the 6 wires in the plug you just unplugged). These are the wires from your stator that go to the R/R and then on to your battery/fusebox. Each wire has a bullet style connector you can easily find in the middle of the wire.

Charge your battery first, with bike off it should be reading at least 12.5v before testing. Connect your voltage meter black wire to a good ground on the frame or the battery neg. post. With the bike running at least 2500 rpm (crank up your idol (black knob left side of carbs)) slip the red voltage meter wire into a connector and wiggle it deep in there so it touches the metal inside the connector. you should see more than 6.3v and probably 7v+. Test each of the 3 wires. If any of them reads less than 6.3v your stator is going or is gone.

There are other ways to test the stator with an ohm meter but if all you've got is a voltage meter this is the way to do it.

If the stator checks out then you may need a new r/r.
 
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