So many carb issues and questions

556 Views 28 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Beaker, 16 d ago

Drew M.

Discussion Starter · 1 mo ago

Hello everyone! It as been so long! My bike has been sitting for about 2.5 years. Its pretty much a stock '03. It turns over and will start when I spray starter fluid in the air box. So I figured I needed to clean the carbs. The outside of the carbs looked terrible. I bought an ultrasonic parts cleaner and put it in there for about 15 minutes. Disassembly was pretty easy. I don't remember which carb it was but one was fine. The other had a gross white, grainy looking substance all over the top of the coaster enricher/air cut off valve. The space between the diaphragm and the cover was full of this stuff. On that same carb, the vacuum valve diaphragm had some hard deposits around the seal, on the underside. I soaked both of those diaphragms in simple green overnight. They both cleaned up well. I ended up using a 4:1 muriatic acid to water mixture to clean up the outside of the carbs once I had all the rubber and plastic off. It worked really well. Then I put everything back in the ultrasonic cleaner to neutralize the acid and to clean out all the little bits and pieces after I sprayed them all really well with carb cleaner. I did run in to one issue. The idle screw/pilot air screw on my carb is all the way in. I know my bike runs lean. Now I know why. Unfortunately, I cant get either of them out. And to make it worse, I just snapped off one side of the head. so...

1. How do I get the air screws out now that I only have half of a slot head left on them?
2. Less important, what was that crap all over the air cut off valve?
3. Once I get the carbs back on, I guess I need to sync them, right?
4. Anything else I should do while I'm here?

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

Spockster

· #2 · 1 mo ago

2) Evaporated gas with ethanol

Was probably the carb for the rear cylinder, if the bike is stored on the side stand, that carb is tilting to the high side and always dries out fast.

Not sure about removing the broken mixture screws. A really small reverse twist drill bit? Don't want to drill too deep and get into where it's tapered. That's going to be a tough one.

I never synch CV carbs, as long as the throttle plates open equally, they should be good.

Reactions: 1

Buddy

· #3 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

i recently went through a carb remove and re-install but i sent my carb out to old school expert in texas he went through and completely rebuilt them all new parts cost me 350.00 but it was worth it. If you cant get the idle screw out the guys website is wiredgeorge.com google him real old school.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
https://www.wgcarbs.com

O' Darkness

· #4 · 1 mo ago

Buddy said:
i recently went through a carb remove and re-install but i sent my carb out to old school expert in texas he went through and completely rebuilt them all new parts cost me 350.00 but it was worth it. If you cant get the idle screw out the guys website is wiredgeorge.com google him real old school.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
https://www.wgcarbs.com

For $350, I could buy brand new carbs!!!!

I'm sure he's good at what he does, but man, that's steep.

Reactions: 1

O' Darkness

· #5 · 1 mo ago

Drew M. said:
Hello everyone! It as been so long! My bike has been sitting for about 2.5 years. Its pretty much a stock '03. It turns over and will start when I spray starter fluid in the air box. So I figured I needed to clean the carbs. The outside of the carbs looked terrible. I bought an ultrasonic parts cleaner and put it in there for about 15 minutes. Disassembly was pretty easy. I don't remember which carb it was but one was fine. The other had a gross white, grainy looking substance all over the top of the coaster enricher/air cut off valve. The space between the diaphragm and the cover was full of this stuff. On that same carb, the vacuum valve diaphragm had some hard deposits around the seal, on the underside. I soaked both of those diaphragms in simple green overnight. They both cleaned up well. I ended up using a 4:1 muriatic acid to water mixture to clean up the outside of the carbs once I had all the rubber and plastic off. It worked really well. Then I put everything back in the ultrasonic cleaner to neutralize the acid and to clean out all the little bits and pieces after I sprayed them all really well with carb cleaner. I did run in to one issue. The idle screw/pilot air screw on my carb is all the way in. I know my bike runs lean. Now I know why. Unfortunately, I cant get either of them out. And to make it worse, I just snapped off one side of the head. so...

1. How do I get the air screws out now that I only have half of a slot head left on them?
2. Less important, what was that crap all over the air cut off valve?
3. Once I get the carbs back on, I guess I need to sync them, right?
4. Anything else I should do while I'm here?

If it were me, I would get a stainless steel machine screw (or just a steel rod of some kind) and use a dremel to make a half-circle on the end of it. If it fits snugly enough, you might get enough force on it to turn it. Did that make sense?

Reactions: 1

Buddy

· #6 · 1 mo ago

O' Darkness said:
For $350, I could buy brand new carbs!!!!

I'm sure he's good at what he does, but man, that's steep.

Brand new carbs if you could find them are from Kawasaki cost 1500.00 .I have once seen them on eBay for 1200.00 .

The guy I used is very fair he really puts in the time and all new parts . I just did not want
to tackle it and I am not sorry bike runs better then new . I wish you good luck on getting yours straightened out . Keep us posted

O' Darkness

· #7 · 1 mo ago

Buddy said:
Brand new carbs if you could find them are from Kawasaki cost 1500.00 .I have once seen them on eBay for 1200.00 .

The guy I used is very fair he really puts in the time and all new parts . I just did not want
to tackle it and I am not sorry bike runs better then new . I wish you good luck on getting yours straightened out . Keep us posted

I wasn't talking about the original ones that came with the Vulcan. There's plenty of aftermarket carbs out there, because I spent WAY too much time looking at them. Many of them are much less that $350.

You said he puts all new parts in? How much is that little box of parts??? I had mine professionally cleaned, rebuilt and all new parts for $140

$350 just seems excessive to me, but to each their own! At the end of the day, all that matters is that you're happy!

Buddy

· #8 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

I cant speak for others but it todays world i know of no mechanic that would do it for $140.00 . OEM carb parts from kawasaki are not cheap and i dont think i would trust aftermarket parts. I have done all the work on my two vulcan 750
except for the carbs and the stator. This was the first carb i had to pull on my 1989 vulcan and it was challenge to do .
I just felt i would spend the money and get it done right . Take a look at the web site of the guy i recommended see what his process is. i was really happy with the end results [ [email protected] ] I understand many forum members want to do it all themselves . i used to be that way but i am 78 years old now and time is important to me i love to ride and still am able but wrenching carbs is not for me now. Keep on riding

Buddy

Home

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors specializes in vintage Japanese carburetor rebuilding and sales.

www.wgcarbs.com

Reactions: 2

Buddy

· #9 · 1 mo ago

When i say all new parts i am including the diaphragms enrichers all new SS JIS screws choke pads springs etc when i got them back i wanted to put them on display in the curio cabinet wife threw me out and the carbs LOL They were really like new.

Reactions: 1

O' Darkness

· #10 · 1 mo ago

Buddy said:
When i say all new parts i am including the diaphragms enrichers all new SS JIS screws choke pads springs etc when i got them back i wanted to put them on display in the curio cabinet wife threw me out and the carbs LOL They were really like new.

I looked through the website, yeah he does good work.

Reactions: 1

mmart

· #11 · 1 mo ago

O' Darkness said:
For $350, I could buy brand new carbs!!!!

I'm sure he's good at what he does, but man, that's steep.

Pro Tip: Let folks spend their $$ however they want, none of us are taking it with us. 😉

Reactions: 2

O' Darkness

· #12 · 1 mo ago

mmart said:
Pro Tip: Let folks spend their $$ however they want, none of us are taking it with us. 😉

That's a good point!

Reactions: 1

Buddy

· #13 · 1 mo ago

I am spending all of my money hear from what i figure there's no money where i am going and cant take it with you .

Reactions: 1

Drew M.

Discussion Starter · #14 · 1 mo ago

Thank you everyone! SPOCKSTER!!! Man, Its been a minute. That is exactly what happen. The bike sat in a garage on its side stand for 2.5+ years. As I was cleaning up I looked again and it was the rear carb.

OP'Darkness, thanks for the idea. I am not back at the shop again until end of next week. But I am going to look in to making a custom tool of some sort. That is certainly the spark I needed to get my brain working again. I'd rather not drill it out, but I can. I have all the right tools, just seems a little delicate for that.

I certainly appreciate the notion that we cant take our money with us. I grew up on a farm and in an automotive repair shop. so paying people to do what they do, especially when they do it better than you can, is what kept food on my table as a kid. But for me, that also means I grew up with a screw driver in my hand and have been taking apart carbs since I was 6. I don't do it every day, which is one of the reasons I love this site. you guys can tell me exactly what to look out for. I will say that I had to replace the fuel inlets about 7 or 8 years ago. Holy Cow, 7 or 8 years can do a number on your back! It certainly wasn't as painful 7 or 8 years ago to get those carbs off. If I ever have to do it again, it might be worth it to me, just to pay someone else!

Ill keep you posted on the broken screw. Thanks again!

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Reactions: 2

Drew M.

Discussion Starter · #15 · 1 mo ago

Update: The idle screw/pilot air screw was a pain in the rear! I made a little half round tool. That just snapped off the other side of the screw. So I drilled it out and tried to use a screw extractor to get them out. The screw extractor broke. I bought a solid carbide drill bit to drill that out. Finally I just gave in, drilled them both completely out as best I could and used my little mechanic picks to pick out the brass. Once I got the threads out the little point was still down in there and wouldn't come out. My long skinny needle nose pliers were to big. So I had to use the carbide drill bit to drill part of that out so I could grab it with the pliers. On the first one I did, I broke off the top of the aluminum body, picture below. The screw sits down inside the body so I think I am fine. I did a much better job on the second one. Had to do all the same steps but I didn't break the aluminum and I didn't screw up the threads as bad. In case anyone ever needs to know that little idle screw thread is m6-.75. I bought a tap and re-threaded both holes. It seems to have worked out in my favor. I was able to re-thread both carbs and was able to get the screws in and then reset to 2.5 turns out. I did run in to a problem putting the bike back together. I shattered the air box. 🤦‍♂️I know many of you have done the ear shave modification to your bike. I am hoping one of you will be willing to part ways with your non-CA air box, now that it isn't all that useful to you. I will certainly trade you cash for it.

I also posted something in the classifieds looking for an air box. I'll look on ebay too. If I ever get this thing running again, I'll let you all know.

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O' Darkness

· #16 · 1 mo ago

Wow, tough break man. Glad you got it worked out, though!

Buddy

· #17 · 1 mo ago

What part of the air box did you shatter . The air box has the filter inside it and the. The. Brome cover did you break the air filter side plastic or the corrugated portion that connects to the surge tank ?

Drew M.

Discussion Starter · #18 · 1 mo ago

Buddy said:
What part of the air box did you shatter . The air box has the filter inside it and the. The. Brome cover did you break the air filter side plastic or the corrugated portion that connects to the surge tank ?

I shattered the main duct, pictured below. The black plastic box that goes over the top of the engine and the carbs. Not the ears, or air filter housing, but the thing they connect to.

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Buddy

· #19 · 1 mo ago

I have seen them on eBay from time to time I once bought one for 7.00 shipped but when I moved I figured I would never need it so I trashed it. The current prices range from 20.00 to 39.00 I myself would not pay more then 20.00 If you do the ear shave you don’t need that surge thing and you don’t need your cutoff switch. Then if you ever have to do a Carburetor pull easy with that surge tank not in the way

Spockster

· #20 · 1 mo ago

I've got an airbox in one piece.

The chips broken at the end of the holes shouldn't hurt anything, as long as the screw doesn't leak.

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