[Matthew Madalinski]

Okay I know someone out there can give me a few pointers . I need new cam chain tentioners , I bought the bike 2 years ago the guy said he changed them but as I looked at the one behind over flow bottle the guy never changed that one so now we have a slight slapping noise . 1st question should i replace both at the same time ? 2nd til i get my new one in the mail someone told me to pop them .. To back out the 10 MM. Bolts and the can chain tentioners will back out a bit til you hear a click or pop if not take a very small flat screwdriver and ever so gently pry it loose til it pops and then tighten back down your 10 mm . Has anyone done that does it work ? I know its not a fix but from what i understand ill get a few more good slapping free miles outs if it without harming the bike since cam chain is just slightly tighter . Also does anyone have an pointers when i do put new cam chain tensioners in ? Thanks alot ..
Your fellow Vulcan Rider

 

[mmart]

If I’m understanding right, it sounds like the left side tensioner has been changed and the right hasn’t. You asked do you need to change them together. The answer is “no”, you only need to address the one that is being a problem at the moment.
As far as pointers, either type (manual or automatic” have one the two bolts. Installing either side has its tricks lol, the right side is in a weird angle and it’s easier to loosen the bolts on the overflow bottle and move it some. On the left you have the oil line, this isn’t a problem but you just want to make sure you don’t bend or kink the line when swapping the tensioner. If you’re using an ACCT then once it’s in you’re done, if an MCCT, the once you finishing installing it, you’ll need to adjust it. You can do this by listening to the motor when it’s running, if it’s loose you’ll hear it slapping, if you make it too tight, the idle will drop and you’ll hear a “whirring” sound. Adjust it until you hear no chain noise then take a short ride to get the bike fully hot and tweak it if necessary. Once it’s set right there’s very little reason to touch it.

 

[Matthew Madalinski]

If I’m understanding right, it sounds like the left side tensioner has been changed and the right hasn’t. You asked do you need to change them together. The answer is “no”, you only need to address the one that is being a problem at the moment.
As far as pointers, either type (manual or automatic” have one the two bolts. Installing either side has its tricks lol, the right side is in a weird angle and it’s easier to loosen the bolts on the overflow bottle and move it some. On the left you have the oil line, this isn’t a problem but you just want to make sure you don’t bend or kink the line when swapping the tensioner. If you’re using an ACCT then once it’s in you’re done, if an MCCT, the once you finishing installing it, you’ll need to adjust it. You can do this by listening to the motor when it’s running, if it’s loose you’ll hear it slapping, if you make it too tight, the idle will drop and you’ll hear a “whirring” sound. Adjust it until you hear no chain noise then take a short ride to get the bike fully hot and tweak it if necessary. Once it’s set right there’s very little reason to touch it.

Wow great explanation thanks again cause i will be doing it myself , everyone keep telling me to go with MCCT.. That their better and last longer .. Thanks again though really .

 

[Matthew Madalinski]

Im getting a knew one to tomorrow so im just clear the guy only has the ACCT he said it doesn't come with instruction .. So im am basically going to screw clockwise til spring is all the way back then bolt on with 10mm then turn center screw counter clockwise til i hear a click then tighten back down ? I have the manuel but that is for the oem cct.