[Spockster]

What's the big benefit of the Tuxedo pod? That you don't have to remove or tilt the engine to replace the stator?

That's it.

Has to be done just right for stator alignment and to prevent oil leaks.

 

[Grizzlyonu]

I tried reaching out to the guy on this forum (Tim?) that rebuilds them, but he's not around and his website is down. What do you recommend for a stator replacement? EBay?

 

[Grizzlyonu]

Im trying to test my charging system.
To test I unplugged the R/R my pulling this connector off of it:

Then I attempted to locate the bullet plugs. I think these are the right wires, behind the Vulcan vanity plate, coming up from the underside of the bike and connecting to the the wiring harness, but they aremt bullet plugs at all. what do you call these? Maybe they are bullets but theyre too dirty.

So i tried testing those three wires by unplugging the R/R, setting the meter to ohms at 2k (200 was my only other option down from that), and touching the other lead to the engine along one of the cylinders:

I didn’t really understand the readings. When I saw “1” I turned the meter down, as in when it was reading 1 on 2K, I turned it to 200. Then I was getting readings like 20 or 30 on a couple of them. What should I be seeing?

 

[Spockster]

Im trying to test my charging system.
To test I unplugged the R/R my pulling this connector off of it:
View attachment 56043

Then I attempted to locate the bullet plugs. I think these are the right wires, behind the Vulcan vanity plate, coming up from the underside of the bike and connecting to the the wiring harness, but they aremt bullet plugs at all. what do you call these? Maybe they are bullets but theyre too dirty.
View attachment 56044
View attachment 56042

So i tried testing those three wires by unplugging the R/R, setting the meter to ohms at 2k (200 was my only other option down from that), and touching the other lead to the engine along one of the cylinders:
View attachment 56041
I didn’t really understand the readings. When I saw “1” I turned the meter down, as in when it was reading 1 on 2K, I turned it to 200. Then I was getting readings like 20 or 30 on a couple of them. What should I be seeing?

You should see no connection between a stator lead and ground.

Meters use different ways to display an open circuit, mine just shows OL for open loop.

I would retest on a higher scale, and check between the battery negative and engine block to make sure there's a ground for the test.

If it passes the ground test move on to the other tests.

Those three yellow wires are the right ones. Looks like they've been redone, could be bullet or spade connectors, and a lot of tape.

 

[Grizzlyonu]

Here’s my meter. Set to ohms 200 here’s what I get (with the RR unplugged):
Each wire to engine block: they all start high and start settling around 1.8 but then slowly tick down to 1.5 or so as I sit there.
Battery negative to the same spot on the engine: starts around 1.2 and slowly ticks down to 0.9

 

[Spockster]

View attachment 56045
Here’s my meter. Set to ohms 200 here’s what I get (with the RR unplugged):
Each wire to engine block: they all start high and start settling around 1.8 but then slowly tick down to 1.5 or so as I sit there.
Battery negative to the same spot on the engine: starts around 1.2 and slowly ticks down to 0.9

If we trust the meter, unfortunately it's showing the stator is shorted to ground. Seems unusual to have all three legs shorted to ground.

 

[Grizzlyonu]

Can you elaborate on why you're saying that and thereby educate me?

 

[mmart]

Instead of an ohm reading does the meter have a continuity test? Not sure if that’s the symbol right above the “ON” switch. Usually it’ll read continuity and beep if it detects ground. You don’t want to read continuity between the stator and ground.

 

[Spockster]

Instead of an ohm reading does the meter have a continuity test? Not sure if that’s the symbol right above the “ON” switch. Usually it’ll read continuity and beep if it detects ground. You don’t want to read continuity between the stator and ground.

That's the diode test, diode symbol.

What does your meter show when you touch both leads together on the same setting?

 

[Spockster]

Can you elaborate on why you're saying that and thereby educate me?

Not sure I trust the meter.

I meant it's not usual for all three leads on the stator to be shorted out. It's usually just one.

 

[Grizzlyonu]

When I set the meter to 200 ohms, the same as I've been doing on the bike, it reads the same as the bike, and as the battery: 1.5 or so which ticks down to 1.2 or so.

 

[Spockster]

When I set the meter to 200 ohms, the same as I've been doing on the bike, it reads the same as the bike, and as the battery: 1.5 or so which ticks down to 1.2 or so.

It looks to me like the meter is showing continuity to ground on all three stator fields, or "legs". Each wire is a leg.

It reads a solid connection on the stator to ground, battery to ground, and meter lead to meter lead.

There should be no connection on this stator ground test. According to this meter, the stator is dead.

 

[mmart]

That's the diode test, diode symbol.

What does your meter show when you touch both leads together on the same setting?

Sorry Sir, I’m going to have to respectfully disagree, that’s the continuity symbol. A reading of “1.” Means “infinite resistance” or “open” so that’s what to want to see from the leads to ground. Here is my meter on that setting. I didn’t have it in front of me to look earlier.

 

[Spockster]

Sorry Sir, I’m going to have to respectfully disagree, that’s the continuity symbol. A reading of “1.” Means “infinite resistance” or “open” so that’s what to want to see from the leads to ground. Here is my meter on that setting. I didn’t have it in front of me to look earlier.

View attachment 56046

Yours does have the audio symbol beside the diode symbol.

He got 1.xx on all three tests... Lead to lead, battery negative to engine block, and each stator lead to ground.

If 1.xx is open, then the entire test is invalid because there was no ground for testing. Meaning the engine isn't grounded.

Or I'm confused.

 

[mmart]

Yours does have the audio symbol beside the diode symbol.

He got 1.xx on all three tests... Lead to lead, battery negative to engine block, and each stator lead to ground.

If 1.xx is open, then the entire test is invalid because there was no ground for testing. Meaning the engine isn't grounded.

Or I'm confused.

I think we just need to talk him through the meter for sanity. When my stator was dead I did the resistance test between leads of the stator but continuity from the lead to the chassis (ground). Maybe I misread the posts but thought he was testing resistance using the 200ohm setting and touching a lead to ground instead of lead to lead.

 

[Spockster]

I think we just need to talk him through the meter for sanity. When my stator was dead I did the resistance test between leads of the stator but continuity from the lead to the chassis (ground). Maybe I misread the posts but thought he was testing resistance using the 200ohm setting and touching a lead to ground instead of lead to lead.

For the ground test, he should be touching one lead to ground and one lead to each stator wire. A good stator will show no connection to ground.

For the stator resistance test he should be testing between each stator wire. A good stator will show resistance values in the range listed in the manual. (higher than 1.xx)

 

[Grizzlyonu]

If the same resistance shows on the multimeter when I touch the leads as when I test any other circuit, the multimeter must be bad, or I can assume there's the same amount of resistance in all the scenarios?
I hate to crowd this thread with trial and error. It's such a helpful thread. I will get a better multimeter that at least passes a resistance test and I will test again.

 

[Spockster]

If the same resistance shows on the multimeter when I touch the leads as when I test any other circuit, the multimeter must be bad, or I can assume there's the same amount of resistance in all the scenarios?
I hate to crowd this thread with trial and error. It's such a helpful thread. I will get a better multimeter that at least passes a resistance test and I will test again.

Either the meter is bad, or all three of those grounds are solid. Except the stator fields shouldn't be grounded.

I just realized what thread we're in.