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I'm not clear on what's happening with the sight glass. In what way does it cloud up? Is it because the glass is completely full and you can't see an air bubble? Or the glass is somehow hazed over? If the glass isn't hazed, and the glass isn't full, you should still see an air bubble even with jet black oil.

This engine does have that air entrainment phenomena where the air whipped into the oil on startup makes the oil look milky after running a couple of minutes, but it goes away after full warmup. Will look like coolant in the oil.

Oil getting black right away points toward sludge buildup. You could try pouring diesel, gas, or kerosene through it with bottom oil drain removed and see what comes out. Or fill it, and then drain, maybe shake the bike around as violently as you can first. Even some soak time wouldn't hurt it, then shake it before draining. Rock it around and slam on the front brake, etc.

Black can also come from deteriorating clutch discs. In the transmission shops, they call it black death.
 

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I'm not clear on what's happening with the sight glass. In what way does it cloud up? Is it because the glass is completely full and you can't see an air bubble? Or the glass is somehow hazed over? If the glass isn't hazed, and the glass isn't full, you should still see an air bubble even with jet black oil.

This engine does have that air entrainment phenomena where the air whipped into the oil on startup makes the oil look milky after running a couple of minutes, but it goes away after full warmup. Will look like coolant in the oil.

Oil getting black right away points toward sludge buildup. You could try pouring diesel, gas, or kerosene through it with bottom oil drain removed and see what comes out. Or fill it, and then drain, maybe shake the bike around as violently as you can first. Even some soak time wouldn't hurt it, then shake it before draining. Rock it around and slam on the front brake, etc.

Black can also come from deteriorating clutch discs. In the transmission shops, they call it black death.
the glass is not completely full. what i see in the sight glass is a hazey brown, like if a light coating of oil/gunk is on it. when i drain the oil and let it drip, the glass clears up. when i fill with oil, i see the air bubble. it's almost like the churning of oil throws it everywhere and then it never clears up until i drain it. I'll see if i can take a pic of the sight glass.

i am pretty confident there is sludge build up. i was considering doing exactly what you were saying about gas/diesel and shaking. there's got to be gunk around the PNF
 

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Yes, if those balls in the PNF stick in their slots, it's the same as not moving.

Strange though, the glass won't clear up without an oil change. Have to assume you tried a flashlight to see the oil level. I usually have to do that anyway. I could see the seafoam loosening varnish and making a problem, but that should be gone with the next oil change.

It might take a few flushes to make a difference, I've been amazed at how bad sludge can get, left long enough, it turns into hard carbon.

Side to side shaking should help also. You could even over-fill with the flush liquid. If you could fix a rag under the drain, you might be able to see what sort of particles come out, and gauge your progress.
 

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Yes, if those balls in the PNF stick in their slots, it's the same as not moving.

Strange though, the glass won't clear up without an oil change. Have to assume you tried a flashlight to see the oil level. I usually have to do that anyway. I could see the seafoam loosening varnish and making a problem, but that should be gone with the next oil change.

It might take a few flushes to make a difference, I've been amazed at how bad sludge can get, left long enough, it turns into hard carbon.

Side to side shaking should help also. You could even over-fill with the flush liquid. If you could fix a rag under the drain, you might be able to see what sort of particles come out, and gauge your progress.
my thoughts exactly with them sticking in the slot.

i'm thinking there is a bunch of gunk in the crankcase so when it gets tossed around, it just sticks to the sight glass. i was considering actual engine flush rather than straight gas. think it would make a difference? and i was going to use an old t-shirt to filter what gets drained out. it's finer than the oil screen but would still let oil through it . i'm just bummed that i have to spend my good riding days fixing more than riding.

i know! get another bike! A backup bike! i'll have to run it by the wife, of course...heh
 

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I'm not sure about using a flush product, have never used one, and they've weakened flush chemicals so much. I don't use radiator flush any longer, I use white vinegar.

Gas. diesel, etc., won't hurt it and should dissolve sludge. By accident I've run my VN and a V8 both overfull with gasoline in the oil. The V8 was so full, it began running rich as hell, probably a gallon or two overfull. I almost rebuilt the carb until I found out it was a bad fuel pump. I don't recommend running with fuel in the crankcase however.

Using fuel as degreaser has always been very effective. Most soft gunk just melts.

If you happen to have a really good power massager around the house, vibrations might help a lot. An orbital sander placed against the bottom of the engine? Something that would vibrate well, without hammering.

You might also remove the round stator cover and see how much might be caked on the stator.
 

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gas/diesel is probably cheaper than engine flush anyway.

i tried unscrewing the round stator cover when i first got the bike and the screws were not cooperative. i consider an impact driver, but didn't want to break anything.

thanx for the help. i'll let you guys know what i do or come up with.
 

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Impact driver should work, just use the right bit.

You tried a round or so of seafoam didn't you?
 

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Impact driver should work, just use the right bit.

You tried a round or so of seafoam didn't you?
I bought it, rode it home, then it started gettin cold. I did the ear shave and other stuff, and then changed the oil, adding in seafoam. the weather got better, so i rode it for a couple hundred miles. changed the oil again, just as black as the first oil change. so, it only really had a 200-300 mile dose of seafoam in the oil. the first several rides were learning the bike, so i attributed failure to get into second to my learning. it got worse, i added a little oil, it got a bit better. the next ride it was near impossible to get into second unless i was revved to 7k in 1st, about 30 mph.

in a nutshell, it shifted ok before i used seafoam, now it's trouble. so maybe the seafoam degunked some settled gunk and deposited it in the PNF. Time to fight back with some harsh chemicals and violent rocking/shaking to degunk the PNF!
 

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Does it go into 3rd? Or do you only have 1st and N.

200 miles should be a good seafoam run, I did that at the end of the oil change life.
 

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Does it go into 3rd? Or do you only have 1st and N.

200 miles should be a good seafoam run, I did that at the end of the oil change life.
I can get to 3rd once i get into second. Once i'm passed the PNF, everything shifts beautifully, up and down.

The ONLY problems i have with my bike (so far) are the PNF, and oil is leaking passed the exhaust valve seal on the rear cylinder. 9800 miles on the meter. I've done all the mods people say to do, and i've learned how to start it while hot, so i any hot start issues i had were operator error.
 

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What conditions allow you to get into 2nd? How do you get there?

Some soak time with the flush liquid would be good too. Extra full, and if you could spin the engine/trans some, it could help. Remove two plugs, spin back wheel? Or if your nanny switches are disabled, use the starter in gear, ignition disabled.

Trying to guess what might have happened with such a low mile engine. I wonder about internal condensation, clutch disc deterioration, and maybe rust in the PNF.

Seems like the oil would have never been changed to create sludge this bad. Condensation - Do you have large temperature swings in the winters over your way?
 

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What conditions allow you to get into 2nd? How do you get there?

Some soak time with the flush liquid would be good too. Extra full, and if you could spin the engine/trans some, it could help. Remove two plugs, spin back wheel? Or if your nanny switches are disabled, use the starter in gear, ignition disabled.

Trying to guess what might have happened with such a low mile engine. I wonder about internal condensation, clutch disc deterioration, and maybe rust in the PNF.

Seems like the oil would have never been changed to create sludge this bad. Condensation - Do you have large temperature swings in the winters over your way?
To get into second, most of the time i just have to ride fast, at least when the engine is warmed up. I go about 25-30 mph, then lift the shift lever like normal. sometimes it takes a couple tries while coasting in neutral.

super full with caustic chemicals in the crankcase. will do. and i have the nanny switches bypassed. i never tried to turn it over without the ignition turned on (on purpose) but it'll do it. Spark plugs out would probably make it easy on the starter. I'll probably put it on the center stand on a block to make sure the rear tire is off the ground.

i do have crazy weather sometimes. the whole winter it was inside while i worked on it, but we have had days that range from high 40's to high 90's in the span of a couple days.

i wonder about however many previous owners. The speedometer housing is cracked, and the front turn signals were gone when i bought it, but there aren't any weird scuff marks or scratches to indicate it was laid down. if it was laid down, it wasn't at any kind of speed.
 

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Less than 10k on the motor, it's obviously sat for a while. I presume you've done an oil change, but have you gotten any good uptime on the motor so far? I wonder if some good fresh synthetic or a bit of seafoam and some good old fashioned engine heat wouldn't free up whatever has the PNF sticking?

In other words, get 'er hot and see what she's got, shifting thru the PNF as much as possible to free it up a bit just to work out the kinks.
 

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Less than 10k on the motor, it's obviously sat for a while. I presume you've done an oil change, but have you gotten any good uptime on the motor so far? I wonder if some good fresh synthetic or a bit of seafoam and some good old fashioned engine heat wouldn't free up whatever has the PNF sticking?

In other words, get 'er hot and see what she's got, shifting thru the PNF as much as possible to free it up a bit just to work out the kinks.
i've probably put 500 miles or more on it since i got it. the guy i got it from said he got it from a guy who let it sit (a 1995 with less than 10k miles...it either sat for a long time or had low miles put on it each year). it's had many heat cycles since i got it and after the seafoam, it might have lossened some gunk, but it hasn't escaped the PNF yet, or gunk got circulated into the PNF. Gonna run some gas through the crankcase and give the bike a jostle for a few. i'll try to screen what comes out to see if anything large comes out. gonna make some messes today!
 

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I have a pic of the "cloudy" look that just about makes it impossible to read the oil level (of course, now that i zoom in on the pic i can see the normal air bubble, even though the bike wasn't on level ground at the time i took the pic). I also attached a pic of what it looks like with about a quart of gas in the crankcase and a bit of shaking. Huge difference as far as i can see.

I'll be sure to add a bit more gas and some extra sloshing! i'll probably drain the oil, refill with gas and the remnants of oil left after draining, and hopefully get gunk out. Thanx for all the pointers and help. Hopefully this will be the end of my PNF probs.
 

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