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Discussion Starter #1
On Saturday during a short ride, as I was coming up to a stoplight. I was in 3rd and as I pulled up to the light and slowed I tapped down into 2nd then down once more, but only got neutral. with no unusual noise or anything else strange it is now completely stuck in neutral. The shift lever is making the full travel distance needed to shift, but nothing is happening.

Does this sound bad? I searched the forums and verses, but didn't find this exact thing happening. I am woefully non-mechanical. If you can't already see it on the outside of the bike I probably can't fix it, but I do know a couple of guys who could help.
 

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Hopefully someone else will chime in shortly, but here's a couple of thoughts: First, check your clutch cable (if you already have, then I apologize in advance) - it may have stretched slightly or gotten pulled slightly out of adjustment and needs a little tweak. Can't hurt to tweak it, anyway, and see if there's any change. Secondly, it's possible that the shift lever mechanism inside the crankcase came apart -that'll mean splitting the crankcase (ew). Anybody else have any thoughts? Were you able to get a lift home?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The clutch cable seems to OK. It is making it's full range of movement. I should have mentioned that.

If this is a "pull the engine and split the case" problem at this time of year I am going to need therapy...and lots of alcohol!! :(
 

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If this is a "pull the engine and split the case" problem at this time of year I am going to need therapy...and lots of alcohol!! :(
Artman and I will send you the booze... I didn't enjoy splitting the case, and I never even bothered to put it back together (come to think of it, neither did Artman!). :doh:
 

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Simple Solutions
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im thinking its more in the shift pawl area i recomend pulling the tansmission cover off and see if that asembly is working properly .... for the rod to come out or the sheft mechinism to break the amount of movement would have been noticable in the foot (assuming u ride more then a little) the other thing about that is that if it wasnt attached to the other side the range of motiion would be great....

If that spring popped out from behing the prawl it would cause whats happening...
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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If you are feeling normal spring tension on the shift lever, I`m inclined to agree with seebeeare. Drain the oil and pull off the outer transmission cover. Check to see if the pawl is engaging one of the six arms on the end of shift drum and turning it when you try to shift into first gear. The pawl is the large, flat, forked steel piece you will see when the cover is removed. There are some good pictures of this in chapter six of the Clymers manual. Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Would you believe that I was in the middle of taking the ERC course when this happened? We were through with the morning session and headed out for lunch. I was expecting to do a write up of my impressions of the course today instead. Once I am back on two wheels I am going to schedule a retake.

I will check when I get home, but I do think that I have normal spring tension on the lever. I say that because the shift lever is is not hanging losely. It returns to it's normal resting position.

The shaft is also not moving in and out more than would be normal, 1/6th inch movement max.

Forgive my ignorance, but when you take off the cover you CAN look in there without **** coming apart and flying out? That is perceived outcome (in my mind) whenever I try to take something mechanical apart. Get to a certain point then SPRANG! 27 pieces fly out of unknown places.

I do have a Cymers. I'll study the pics and instructions, and see if I can make this happen.

Thanks
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I haven`t pulled it myself, but everything I have read here or in the Clymers manual indicates nothing will fly out.
 

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Simple Solutions
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nothing will fly out....
here is a pic in the lower quadrent there is what behind the tran cover /the one with the sight glass should lool like on the rt u see a gear looking thing and below is an arm with a wheel on te end of it to the left is the pawl and the pawl has a spring between there and that shaft... i hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, I have two more questions before I do this.

First, since the lever is returning to it's normal resting place I assume that the Lever Return Spring is still in there doing it's thing, so I think what I hope for is that the culprit is the Pawl Spring. If that is the case can it be replaced?

Second, is there a gasket or o-ring on the Transmission Cover that will need to be replaced? Not only am I opening mine, but at the same time my friend who also has 750 has an oil leak from that cover. We are going to try to fix do both at the same time.

Thanks
 

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The Professor
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OK, I have two more questions before I do this.

First, since the lever is returning to it's normal resting place I assume that the Lever Return Spring is still in there doing it's thing, so I think what I hope for is that the culprit is the Pawl Spring. If that is the case can it be replaced?

Second, is there a gasket or o-ring on the Transmission Cover that will need to be replaced? Not only am I opening mine, but at the same time my friend who also has 750 has an oil leak from that cover. We are going to try to fix do both at the same time.

Thanks
Transmission cover gasket #11060-1091

Shift Pawl #13165-1120

Return spring #92081-1777

Will cost you about $25.00 for shift pawl, spring and 2 gaskets at a dealer. :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, see, now this is why this site is so friggin' AWESOME!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Allright, I am reporting back that the bike is fixed!! :pepper::pepper::pepper::pepper::pepper:

It took about 2 hours from draining the oil to taking a test ride. The culprit was the little U-shaped spring that holds the prawl against the end of the shift drum. It had slipped partially out of place, but wasn't broken. I just slipped it back in where it goes and closed it up. I do plan to order a new spring since I am assuming the old one has gotten weak, and unless it strands me someplace between now and then I will probably install it the next time I change my oil.

Just a couple of things to add about this for any mechanical novices who have to do this in the future.

First, if you can put the bike up on a jack it will keep you from having to do this while laying on the floor. My riding buddy just found an AC Delco 1500 lb capacity bike/ATV jack at a yard sale for $40!! We put it to good use.

Second, you do have to disconnect the bottom end of the clutch cable to get it out of the way. The armature at the end of the cable slides off the shaft once you remove the set bolt. You do need to be careful to get it back on in the same position.

Third, the cover would not actually come all the way off. You can turn it to allow access to the space, but the shaft that turns the prawl sticks out and holds it against the frame and we weren't able to get it out. The only real problem with this is that it would be difficult (but not impossible) to put on a new gasket. Luckily the gasket was undamaged and the cover went back on with no leaks.

Thanks to Seebeeare, OlHoss, Pick and everyone elso who gave me advice on this. :beerchug: You can imagine how awesome it felt to start it up and ride out of the driveway.
 

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Great job, and congrats on it being something (relatively) minor.

--FA
 

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Simple Solutions
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glad it worked out and was simple ! just keep order that spring and keep her handy i dont think your gonna have an issue now that its back in place also if u dodnt have the gasket ,1 min gasket by right stuff works great (just to Let u know if u get in a pinch... )
 

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Kawika
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man, I hope I have as good luck as you did....my bike just broke down the same way today on the way home from work...I'm already a basket case! :doh: @ 8002 miles

Allright, I am reporting back that the bike is fixed!! :pepper::pepper::pepper::pepper::pepper:

It took about 2 hours from draining the oil to taking a test ride. The culprit was the little U-shaped spring that holds the prawl against the end of the shift drum. It had slipped partially out of place, but wasn't broken. I just slipped it back in where it goes and closed it up. I do plan to order a new spring since I am assuming the old one has gotten weak, and unless it strands me someplace between now and then I will probably install it the next time I change my oil.

Just a couple of things to add about this for any mechanical novices who have to do this in the future.

First, if you can put the bike up on a jack it will keep you from having to do this while laying on the floor. My riding buddy just found an AC Delco 1500 lb capacity bike/ATV jack at a yard sale for $40!! We put it to good use.

Second, you do have to disconnect the bottom end of the clutch cable to get it out of the way. The armature at the end of the cable slides off the shaft once you remove the set bolt. You do need to be careful to get it back on in the same position.

Third, the cover would not actually come all the way off. You can turn it to allow access to the space, but the shaft that turns the prawl sticks out and holds it against the frame and we weren't able to get it out. The only real problem with this is that it would be difficult (but not impossible) to put on a new gasket. Luckily the gasket was undamaged and the cover went back on with no leaks.

Thanks to Seebeeare, OlHoss, Pick and everyone elso who gave me advice on this. :beerchug: You can imagine how awesome it felt to start it up and ride out of the driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Luckily it is not that hard to open it up and put it back together. I ordered a new spring, but I rode the bike for quite a while with the old one put back in before I changed it out. Unless the spring is broken I think you can just bend it out a little bit to add to it's "spring-i-ness" and put it right back in. Be careful not to damage the gasket on the cover when you open it. There are two little tabs, one on each side, meant to use with a screwdriver to pry the cover off. Smear a little oil on it before you close it back up and it won't leak. Let me know if you have any questions. I've done this twice this Summer, so I guess that makes me the current resident expert.
 

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Guess this is worth closing the loop on...Mine was the C-shaped spring. Not broken, not out of position, just old and weakened to the point that it suddenly didn't do its job at all any more.

The gasket pretty well disintegrated on disassembly, but we got the surfaces cleaned up and the new one slid over.
 

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Kawika
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Luckily it is not that hard to open it up and put it back together. I ordered a new spring, but I rode the bike for quite a while with the old one put back in before I changed it out. Unless the spring is broken I think you can just bend it out a little bit to add to it's "spring-i-ness" and put it right back in. Be careful not to damage the gasket on the cover when you open it. There are two little tabs, one on each side, meant to use with a screwdriver to pry the cover off. Smear a little oil on it before you close it back up and it won't leak. Let me know if you have any questions. I've done this twice this Summer, so I guess that makes me the current resident expert.
similar situation here....I bent the spring out a little an put it back in and have about 900 miles on it already with no issues. My gasket was destroyed upon removal, so I had to order a new one. Since I was waiting for parts, I ordered the spring as well, but the dealer accidentally ordered the other spring that goes on the shaft....maybe I will get that new sping on there over the winter, but I'm not having any issues. Before it "stuck in neutral" I had warnings of this coming, but was not aware of the solution. The warnings were, the bike seemed to "miss the gear" when shifting fast, but then recovered after down shifting.
 
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