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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, after the motor on my bike locked up (not sure why yet) I was like no problem, I have spare thanks to a parts bike I had gotten. So I got the old one out and got the new one mounted when I noticed the shifter could move in and out. I went crap that C-clip came off somehow. I'll have to pull it back apart and reset that C-clip(which made me rather upset and walk away for a day or two). So I pulled the motor back out of the bike, pulled the stator cover again, and attempted to push the C-clip back into it's grove with no luck. The shaft is being held from coming all the way back out to where it should be sitting. so i put the foot shifter back on the shaft and used it to pull and twist the shifter with no luck it's not going back into place. I have never split the case on one of these ( or any motorcycle/ATV engine) so I really don't want to but i have a bad feeling i'm going to have to if i want a running motorcycle. So I guess finally to my question Have any of you guys experienced this before? What did it turn out to be and what did you have to do to fix it? Thanks in advance for any and all help or input/suggestions!
 

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Hate to say it, but it sounds like the internal shift rod may be broken. But you didn't mention how it feels when you try to shift. Will it shift, or does it not rotate at all?

I was thinking maybe with the shaft pushed inward, it's caught in the rotating assembly somehow, so the engine can't turn and the shifter shaft is stuck where it is.
 

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There's nothing on the other side of that case wall that could easily get in the way.
see the corresponding part of Roach's rebuild video on youtube

1985 Kawasaki VN750 Engine Rebuild - pt7 (at the end)
and pt 17 (4:00 for reassembly)

Strangely his doesn't seem to have the two washers that accompany the circlips?
 

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I didn't review any drawings or anything, just figured if the shaft could float inward, it might contact something, more so if the internal rod is broken and floating free on one end. But maybe not.

There's a washer in the pic, behind the circlip.

If it's locked up from some other reason, it has bigger trouble than a shifty shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
so the shifter will go through all of the gears and motor will spin regardless of if the shifter is pushed in or not. I will have to check out those times in the rebuild videos thanks for which spots they are at. I measured the how far the shaft isn't being allowed to be pulled out. one is the motor that's locked up the shorter is motor i'm working on

when pulling on shaft to try to get it out further it feels what i would describe as slightly springy it doesn't seem to stop dead you can pull harder and get it to pull out a tiny bit further(probably less than a mm). I will post video in a few min. I have tried pulling while wiggling it and pulling while shifting /rotating with no luck.
 

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I'm confused.

one is the motor that's locked up the shorter is motor i'm working on
The engine is locked up, and it isn't?

If the first pic in this thread is the inner circlip, it looks like the shaft is pulled out as far as it goes. The washer with that circlip should ride against the inner case, or a lot closer to it.

The outer circlip and washer rides against the inside of the stator case.
 

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He's got two engines, one that is locked up, but has the shifter shaft properly clipped into place, and a second, non-locked up engine that the shifter rod won't pull out far enough to get the innermost clip into it's groove.

I think the first picture is just demonstrating that the groove is not clearing the hole in the crank case, and the circlip was just pulled back for visibility's sake.
 

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He's got two engines, one that is locked up, but has the shifter shaft properly clipped into place, and a second, non-locked up engine that the shifter rod won't pull out far enough to get the innermost clip into it's groove.

I think the first picture is just demonstrating that the groove is not clearing the hole in the crank case, and the circlip was just pulled back for visibility's sake.
Aha! Thanks. :)

yup, misread the first post.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Since everything still works I'm thinking about removing that outer C-clip and putting a spacer then reinstall clip. That way the shifter can't move inward then put the whole thing back together. I know it's not the proper fix for it but if it works it works which means I would be able to ride again and that is something I really want to do.
 

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a working temporary fix is putting an appropriate sized piece of hose on the outside of the case, between shift lever and case, to hold it out into the same position
 

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a working temporary fix is putting an appropriate sized piece of hose on the outside of the case, between shift lever and case, to hold it out into the same position
First thing I thought when I read the title, then I went on to confuse myself reading the post. Coffee before computer, always!
 

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I ran across another video from years ago of someone with exactly the same problem as you, so there's a recurring problem that is more than just a popped-off circlip. Was the bike dropped on the shifter or something similar before this happened? I'm wondering if the dog-leg on the interior end of the shifter rod got smashed against the far case and was bent towards the shift lever, eating up some of the rod's length? There's a window between the two halves of the crank case to allow oil to flow back and forth ... I wonder if you could stick a dentist's mirror through there and see what's happening on the other side.

Or, you know, slap some hose on there and ride. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After I realized there was an issue but before I took the cover back off I had thought about a spring on the outside but decided to open it back up to try to fix it properly I was thinking about a spacer on the shaft because it wouldn't wear as much a hose and it wouldn't rub against the oil seal on the outside of the case. To me, it seems to be a more "permanent" rigged fix (because I know myself and as long as it works I'm not going to worry about it anymore) so as long as there is enough space between the shifter and the gear next to it I shouldn't have an issue. Is there a reason that hose on the outside may be better?
 

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If the seal happens to be slightly below the edge of the case, a washer could be used to prevent rubbing the seal.
 

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I have had to replace that seal, and I *think* the actual sealing surface is recessed a bit. but yes, a washer between hose/spacer and seal should prevent any wear there regardless of whether or not the sealing surface is recessed

also, there is very little movement in the shaft in normal operation, so if you select a hose/spacer thats a tight fit to the shaft, you may be ok, as the hose/spacer will only move (rotate) with the shaft, and not spin freely due to vibration
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think tomorrow I'm going to go to Ace and find a spacer i'll update you guys just so you know how it goes! I'm planning on putting the spacer on the inside of the case (between the inner part of the case and the C-clip on the shaft) so I don't have to worry about that seal ( plus it would be metal and not rubber so might last longer if I can keep this motor without blowing it up that is haha) if I can't get the right spacer then I'll go for a hose on the outside.
 
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