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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

She died today. :crying:
My bike started beautifully today, way better than many other times...
I rode off, but before leaving the street she started to hold back.... When I stopped and she tried to run stationary (is that correct english?) the engine started to run irregular. like... tada.. bam ... tada ... bam. Just like she missed a blow each cycle.

After a minute she just died... and now when I turn the key, nothing reacts, no ligths, no startengine, nothing...

Will put the battery on the charger today, to see if it charges then... If this works, it's likely the battery is empty and is not being charged underway... That would suck. The dynamo is just over a year old.
Any other ideas what could be happening here? I know something, but am not too technical.

Cheers,
 

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Hi,



She died today. :crying:

My bike started beautifully today, way better than many other times...

I rode off, but before leaving the street she started to hold back.... When I stopped and she tried to run stationary (is that correct english?) the engine started to run irregular. like... tada.. bam ... tada ... bam. Just like she missed a blow each cycle.



After a minute she just died... and now when I turn the key, nothing reacts, no ligths, no startengine, nothing...



Will put the battery on the charger today, to see if it charges then... If this works, it's likely the battery is empty and is not being charged underway... That would suck. The dynamo is just over a year old.

Any other ideas what could be happening here? I know something, but am not too technical.



Cheers,


Check if there is charging power 14,5 v at 4000rpm if not check the regulator rectifier (R/R) if that is not the problem chech the stator


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2014 KLR 650!
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Have you cleaned the ignition switch? The puck under the key? You would be surprised at the havoc that fkin thing throws at you.
 

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the ignition switch is 2 parts, the lock cylinder (where key goes), and the switch itself (looks like a hockey puck with wires).

many people think the lock cylinder is the switch. that is incorrect. cleaning the lock cylinder does not clean the switch itself.

you can remove the switch fairly easily, without a lot of other stuff needing to be removed first.
 

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How old is the battery and what type of battery is it?

Your problem could just be a dead battery. These bikes will not run without a battery. I got 7 years out of my Yuasa AGM before it died and left me stranded (thank you AAA). The bike started up just fine on that day with no indication that the battery was failing (e.g., weak starter noise). The volt meter indicated proper charging conditions throughout the ride. When the battery finally died (and the engine along with it), there was barely enough power to faintly light up dash.
 

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2014 KLR 650!
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There are ball bearings and little springs in the ignition switch so be careful not to lose them!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, had it checked by a repairguy. An honest one, that is ;-)

The good news is, it was just the fuse. She's running again.

The very very bad news is that the fuse that burned was a 15A fuse. There should be a 10A fuse in it.
His words:" the inner of this engine is litterally taped together and I don't know where to start to check things out. Everything seems even rotten".
It's not that he really does not know of course, it's more that he cannot give any guarantee to find the culprit quickly and he advises not to spend any extra money on this bike since he does not know where it ends.

So, that was a very short lovestory of me and my vn750.
I think the only option left is the see if someone is willing to pay a few bucks for a projectbike.
I'm sad, because I loved the way it rides, but do not have the money at the moment to get another one.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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why not just buy a wire harness on ebay?not a hard replacement. they're going from about $40 to $100

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There are some easy places you can check yourself. Check around the front neck where the wire harness comes up from the frame and into the headlight bucket.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow.... Died again.

Was just this weekend making deals with someone with space and a motorcycle to work on our bikes during this winter to do some things (wire harnass among them). And this morning no luck with starting.

So started with help of my car, worked like a charm. Even started like never before.
After about 4 km riding, died again... called dutch AAA.

There recharged the battery and checked if the thing was charging.... NOT.
So he said: dynamo dead of regulation rectifier dead or maybe both.

Back to you: will a dead RR make this happen? Or is this definately the dynamo? (Should not be over 2 years old). And what is this staor thing I keep reading about in this forum?

Voltage regulators seem pretty expensive here (around 100$)
However, uncle Ali has one as well... https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-For-Kawasaki-VN-750-1988-2006-VN1500-1987-1999-KLF300-Bayou-1986-1992/32674864212.html

Anyone has experience with this one?

Regards
 

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The stator/rotor assembly is also known as the dynamo, generator, alternator, etc. It's the mechanical portion of the charging system for the bike. The rotor is attached to the crankshaft and rotates along with the engine. It has magnets in it which generate electrical current within the stator. The stator then sends that current to the regulator/rectifier (aka R/R) which then converts it into usable DC current in order to charge the battery.

The R/R is known to be a weak spot on these bikes, and the factory R/R is a very outdated model. You can test if the stator is good with a voltmeter, there is a good writeup somewhere in these forums. If the stator is good you can replace the R/R (or upgrade to a MOSFET/Series style R/R, which is a vast improvement and improves reliability)

Test your stator and let us know how it turns out. If it's still good, you can just replace/upgrade the R/R, as a dead R/R will not charge the bike at all.

If you do, though, DO NOT BUY THAT CHEAP R/R. Get a high-quality one, or else you will be replacing it again or possibly damaging other components.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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did you check the plug to the rectifier?

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Jumping from a running car can cook the R/R.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Jumping from a running car can cook the R/R.
can also break your leg,or your arm,or your head...

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Discussion Starter #17
did you check the plug to the rectifier?

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Not yet. I really had no time past weeks (several personal/family issues). And besides I would not know how to ;-) I can use tools and dissamble and assemble things :p But the elecktronic stuff is kind of little known to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The stator/rotor assembly is also known as the dynamo, generator, alternator, etc. It's the mechanical portion of the charging system for the bike. The rotor is attached to the crankshaft and rotates along with the engine. It has magnets in it which generate electrical current within the stator. The stator then sends that current to the regulator/rectifier (aka R/R) which then converts it into usable DC current in order to charge the battery.

The R/R is known to be a weak spot on these bikes, and the factory R/R is a very outdated model. You can test if the stator is good with a voltmeter, there is a good writeup somewhere in these forums. If the stator is good you can replace the R/R (or upgrade to a MOSFET/Series style R/R, which is a vast improvement and improves reliability)

Test your stator and let us know how it turns out. If it's still good, you can just replace/upgrade the R/R, as a dead R/R will not charge the bike at all.

If you do, though, DO NOT BUY THAT CHEAP R/R. Get a high-quality one, or else you will be replacing it again or possibly damaging other components.
Is this that Mosfet thingy?
SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER KIT REPLACES FH012AA | eBay
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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pull the connector off the r&r and check for corrosion or melting

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That looks like a good MOSFET kit, yes. Roadstercycle is one of the best sellers, but with you being in the Netherlands that ebay link looks like a better option for you (because of shipping costs associated with buying from a US distributor)
 
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