The number one tip we give every new member is to replace your stock wet cell battery with a sealed gel cell battery ASAP. You will avoid a lot of starting and performance problems with this simple modification.
Suggested batteries are... look up stuff to go here...
Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the anti-seize? And why would I use it on the plugs? (Just want to make sure I don't do something stupid while I'm messing around in there.)
I am no mechanic, but I am pretty sure it keeps the plug from becoming one (in a very bad way) with the engine. In other words seizing into the part you tighten it into..
Anti seize it a paste you put on threads that you dont want to stick. DO NOT GET ANY ON THE END OF THE PLUG. Will cause the plug to foul fast, Anti seize is good to use on any bolt you might think might rust. Works good
I didn't mean to jump topics- I thought I was replying to a much earlier post about how well the bikes run after new MF batteries were installed. Sorry.
Anyway, you are correct that anti seeze is put on the THREADS of iridium plugs. Because thay need to be changed out, well... never, since they are good for like 60,000 miles or some ridiculous number. Because of this, there is the fear that not removing them will cause the threads to seize to the heads. A very bad thing.
Load test!
Yeah, That's where I screwed up--as I found out later.
I should have hooked it up to a headlight and watched how long it lasted. (I don't have an ammeter big enough to test it that way.)
Here's the basics of the anti-seize.
Aluminum and steel have an interesting attraction for one another. The steel will cut right into aluminum and "dog up" or "ball up". It seizes tight. Our engines are aluminum. The base of the plugs are steel.
Ordinarily enough carbon & crud gets into the bottom part of the threads to keep them from sticking tightly to each other. But iridium plugs last forever. If you ever want to take them out, they will have been in there so long that they can't come out without stripping out half the threads from the aluminum head.
But all this should be in a different section of the forum.
Sorry about that.
Angky.
I have replaced the battery with a MF gel battery and I agree that the bike ran unbelievably better. If you really want to make it purr, replace the plugs with iridiums. For me, the combination of the two made it start every time, hot or cold. Remember, though, use anti seeze if you change the plugs!
MF gel battery?
I'm interested, but I don't know anything about it.
Can you give some info? What is it, why is it, how does it work, how is it better, etc.?
Thanks,
Angky.
I think Yuasa makes their own batteries, and I haven't heard of any Yuasa's going out yet. But Angky, Rnewell has been holding onto his battery for a while. Nobody wants it - nobody here, that is.
Hey.... my friend last took his Yamaha 850 to Washington and went to the Interstate Warehouse and picked up a battery there... I took a look and well...well....well.. it carries the same number as the Yuasa AGM for our bikes ( YTX14AHL-BS ) and he picked it up for around $56.00!!
I have an Interstate Battery here... but have yet to go see if they have it at that price here...
I should check then I would "assume" that that price would be good else where!!
I have had no trouble at all with the wet cell battery in my bike . Starts right up every time hot or cold I think that I willstick to that type of battery sorry I just cant knock a good thing.................
I have had no trouble at all with the wet cell battery in my bike . Starts right up every time hot or cold I think that I willstick to that type of battery sorry I just cant knock a good thing.................
the main reason we suggest replacement is because of when the wet cell goes bad, it will fry the stator. its more of a preventative mantinance issue then an improvement.
Try to order the Yuasa High Perf Maint free battery YXT14AHL-BS for my Vulcan 1986. However no possibility to obtain in The Netherlands Europe. Ordering by internet in US is no option, due to non-delivery or transport to The Netherlands.
Somebody to help me?
Greetings Peter
Thanks for all the good info. on switching to a sealed battery. I've had problems with keeping my old battery charged for probably a year now. If I didn't ride almost every day, it acted like it might not start sometimes. I picked up a Diehard #44005 today, and it's getting it's initial charge as I type this. I can't wait to get that thing in. I also picked up the 1.5 amp battery tender which has the permanent connectors so you don't have to remove the battery to keep it charged. Great stuff! :smiley_th
I'm really impressed with how my bike fired up today with the new MF battery installed. It started cold (it was around 45 degrees) better than it usually starts after I've been driving it and it's warmed up. Very cool...thanks again for the good info. on getting rid of the old style batteries.
Nobody has said anything about the actual process of swapping my stock battery for a maintenance-free one, and I can't find instructions in the Vulcan Verses. Could this be because it is as simple/obvious as unhooking the pos/neg cables, removing the old unit, dropping the new battery in its place, and rehooking the cables?
Do I need anything extra, like a new/longer strap? And what do I do with the old battery?
I keep my stock battery on a trickle tender all the time in cold weather, so I don't have any questions about charging the new battery.
Could this be because it is as simple/obvious as unhooking the pos/neg cables, removing the old unit, dropping the new battery in its place, and rehooking the cables?
Do I need anything extra, like a new/longer strap? And what do I do with the old battery?
I keep my stock battery on a trickle tender all the time in cold weather, so I don't have any questions about charging the new battery.
That about covers it!! Just fill battery and charge per instructions first.
As to your old battery..... if it is still good, keep it around long enough to make sure you got a good battery.... if it's bad, then take it to back to where you bought your battery and turn it in for recycling.
If you are using a "Battery Tender" charger with permanent mount plug then you do not even need to take it out to keep it charged through the winter!!
Just be sure to disconnect the negative cable first. That way, if ya happen to accidently bump your wrench/screwdriver against the frame while disconnecting the positive cable, ya wont see sparks !
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