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Discussion Starter #1
I have an engine that has been out of the bike for a long time. I pulled the rags out of the intake boots the previous owner had placed there. I assumed they were placed there after the engine had been removed, but it was likely an afterthought as the intake valves are very rusty. :(

I'm going to pull the heads off and clean them up the best I can. I'm just wondering how far I should go since I have the engine out and apart.

Should I just do the valves and put it back together with new head gaskets? Or should I pull the cylinders off and check the piston and rings while I'm at it?

It should be noted that the bike has low Kms.
 

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Calif Rider
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Yes check the whole works,the cylinders and rings are most likely the same. A lot of moisture was allowed into the engine. I would also take a good look at the stator through the small cover on the left side of engine. If it is burnt and discolored it is shot and also check the stator wires.You can also do a stator grounding check. Have fun and try to check everything, no fun trying to pull it out again if there are other problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah that's what I figured. If the valve are rusty, everything probably is. I guess I was trying to justify not doing so much work.

Oh well, it'll be a learning experience. :smiley_th

I'll check the stator as mentioned.

Is there any good resources for VN engine rebuilds? I did a quick search on here and Google, didn't come up with anything specific to Vulcans.
 

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jthill has a couple of threads on his rebuild. Lots of pictures and very helpful. Can't remember the title right now. There is an internal shift rod on the early models that was poorly designed. That should be replaced with the improved version that won't break. I'd also replace the balance dampers as they are probably bad as well. Go ahead and do the stator mod that allows you to replace it without pulling the engine (for next time),
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I found those threads.
Thread 1
Thread 2

Wow, these will be very helpful.

If the crank looks good when I pull the cylinders off I'll probably leave the bottom end alone.

I think I'll also make YouTube videos of the entire process.
 

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I'm just going by what our late VN7XX guru, lance said. The internal shift rod will break at some point, and need to be replaced. The balance dampers on the early model bikes, especially if they sat for extended periods, as it appears yours may have, deteriorate. If they go, the balancer will eventually come out the lower end, resulting in serious damage. See the 1987 project bike in my sig.

Your choice.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Linkmeister Supreme
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jthill has a couple of threads on his rebuild. Lots of pictures and very helpful. Can't remember the title right now. There is an internal shift rod on the early models that was poorly designed. That should be replaced with the improved version that won't break. I'd also replace the balance dampers as they are probably bad as well. Go ahead and do the stator mod that allows you to replace it without pulling the engine (for next time),
X2- Change out the shifter tie-rod for the stronger one while the engine is already out of the frame.

Same for the balancer dampers, and inspect the stator too.
You are 90% of the way there, so fix it right now and you won`t be pulling the engine again in a year or two.:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm just going by what our late VN7XX guru, lance said. The internal shift rod will break at some point, and need to be replaced. The balance dampers on the early model bikes, especially if they sat for extended periods, as it appears yours may have, deteriorate. If they go, the balancer will eventually come out the lower end, resulting in serious damage. See the 1987 project bike in my sig.

Your choice.
OlHossCanada said:
X2- Change out the shifter tie-rod for the stronger one while the engine is already out of the frame.

Same for the balancer dampers, and inspect the stator too.
You are 90% of the way there, so fix it right now and you won`t be pulling the engine again in a year or two.

OK, you guys are right. Might as well do it properly the first time. I was trying to cut corners because it is getting nice out and all my friends are firing up their bikes. :(

I think I read on here that there are no gasket kits available? The best bet is to order them one by one from BikeBandit?

So if I order a newer model shifter tie-rod it'll fit without issue? How much newer?
 

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OK, you guys are right. Might as well do it properly the first time. I was trying to cut corners because it is getting nice out and all my friends are firing up their bikes. :(

I think I read on here that there are no gasket kits available? The best bet is to order them one by one from BikeBandit?

So if I order a newer model shifter tie-rod it'll fit without issue? How much newer?
Yes, I believe you have to order all the gaskets individually.

To the best of my knowledge, the old tie-rod has been superceded by a new part number since some time in the 90`s.
The old part should not even be in stock anymore.

http://www.indyoem.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=392693&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=1991&fveh=9040
P/N 39110 on this diagram, but does not indicate a superceded number like some others on this site. ($4.80)

Bike Bandit has the same diagram with number 39110, but the parts list has an entirely different p/n??
Still not a supeceded number shown though?? ($7.50)
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1991-kawasaki-vulcan-750-vn750a7-us/o/m4555#sch51723

Email or phone the supplier to confirm you are ordering the new heavy duty tie rod.
 

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There is an internal shift rod on the early models that was poorly designed. That should be replaced with the improved version that won't break.
I'm just going by what our late VN7XX guru, lance said. The internal shift rod will break at some point, and need to be replaced. The balance dampers on the early model bikes, especially if they sat for extended periods, as it appears yours may have, deteriorate. If they go, the balancer will eventually come out the lower end, resulting in serious damage. See the 1987 project bike in my sig.
flitecontrol,
I would be highly interested to know what model years should be considered early. I have a '91 that sat for a long time, and I am now somewhat alarmed. I do not want my balancer sticking out my case :wow:
 

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It varies. The balancer came out of the 1987 project bike early in 2009. My 1989 has shown no indications of damper failure (rubber chunks or metal shavings on the oil screen) even though it's now just as old as the '87 was when it failed. If you don't need to pull the engine for some other reason, just monitor the screen and change the oil regularly. If you already have pulled the engine, like the OP, it just makes sense (to me) to go ahead and take care of these other known issues while it's out.

Haven't had to pull the engine yet, but you can bet when I do, I'm going to replace the shift rod and balance dampers while it's out!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, I believe you have to order all the gaskets individually.

To the best of my knowledge, the old tie-rod has been superceded by a new part number since some time in the 90`s.
The old part should not even be in stock anymore.

http://www.indyoem.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=392693&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=1991&fveh=9040
P/N 39110 on this diagram, but does not indicate a superceded number like some others on this site. ($4.80)

Bike Bandit has the same diagram with number 39110, but the parts list has an entirely different p/n??
Still not a supeceded number shown though?? ($7.50)
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1991-kawasaki-vulcan-750-vn750a7-us/o/m4555#sch51723

Email or phone the supplier to confirm you are ordering the new heavy duty tie rod.
Thanks, I imagine that part number is just unique to BikeBandit.

So same goes for the dampers? They changed them in the later models? or they just go bad eventually?
 

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They deteriorate over time and faster if the bike isn't ridden often.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, so I'm making a list of things to do while the engine is out. So far...

-Swap shift tie-rod for HD version.
-Replace Balancer Dampers.
-Convert to MCCT

Anything else I should consider?
 

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