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Discussion Starter #1
....as most of you know, Ive completely flipped my bike around...I have many Harley lights on it...now....Harley used the frame/fender grounds for the (-)...Kawi adds an extra wire for that...Ive already used single wire Yama signals on mine without issue...front and rear signals on the Harley are single filament, so Im guessing no running lights, right ?....thats ok...I can deal with it...

Main question...is that I want to run my front "passing lights" as theyre called, switched, off of the aux lighting in the healight housing...I can do that...but I need to know if I can hook up switched LED accents to the aux leads by the battery, and safely run them both together...I know I could run each individualy that way, but can I do both simultaneously ?...the accents wouldnt draw hardly any more amps, but would it cause a short ?
 

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Shouldn't cause a short IMO. Your main concern would be the total electrical load. But alas, I'm no expert and I'd listen to a more seasoned electrical guru.
 

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Why not run the 'switched' aux leads to a relay coil, then send bat power to the relay contact Normally open, then the common of the relay out to your load?

This way the 'aux' circuit is not so burdened with lighting loads.

I have an extra automotive relay. Used one to get more power to my head light.


Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not 100% sure, but I think the Aux already goes thru a relay....dont matter....had everything new unhooked, key off....soon as I touched the ground on my charger to the (-) bat terminal, dash lights went on and the tach went to 8k....I got a short obviously somewhere, but cant find it....my eyes aint good enough anymore to see old dirty wire colors either....I can only figure I pinched something when I put the fairing on...I may yank it off tomorrow too...really only wanted it for just before, during, and right after winter....mebbe real long trips....just 5 bolts...best do that so I can see all the wires better....this sucks....

Just gonna get drunked up for tonight, and will hit it again in the morning...
I hate frickin wiring...especially on this thing...too many unneeded wires !....bikes were so much easier 30 yrs ago...siiiiiigh.....
 

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I set mine up with a relay in the headlight bucket so that the relay only energizes when the key is turned to run (I used the dash lights wiring).
The power went through a handlebar mounted switch then throught the relay.

Driving lights only turn on with my new switch on AND the ignition set to "run".

You can run the LED accent light off the same switch if you want, or a seperate switch and a seperate realy under the seat.
 

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Not 100% sure, but I think the Aux already goes thru a relay....dont matter....had everything new unhooked, key off....soon as I touched the ground on my charger to the (-) bat terminal, dash lights went on and the tach went to 8k....I got a short obviously somewhere, but cant find it....my eyes aint good enough anymore to see old dirty wire colors either....I can only figure I pinched something when I put the fairing on...I may yank it off tomorrow too...really only wanted it for just before, during, and right after winter....mebbe real long trips....just 5 bolts...best do that so I can see all the wires better....this sucks....

Just gonna get drunked up for tonight, and will hit it again in the morning...
I hate frickin wiring...especially on this thing...too many unneeded wires !....bikes were so much easier 30 yrs ago...siiiiiigh.....
even my bike has less wiring, those 750's are like space ships.


Very weird that with the ign off your lights on the dash went on... very weird.


kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its a pinch somewhere, and I think I found it....the wiring mess going to the tach housing is all funky looking (I pulled the fairing off)...too pissed off, and tired and blind right now to mess any more today....but gotta be it....all other wires were basically direct replacements for what I already had...this just really blows dead moose...story of my frickin life....and Laconia so close...

Fenris will enjoy this...some may have Murphy, I got frickin Loki sittin on my shoulder !!!!

Vodka and Darvocet for dinner tonight...night boys....thanks....
 

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I am surprized that those wires have power with ign off, even if they were all tied together or anything weird.... with ign off I did not expect that power would get up there.

Take your time, use a test light or a meter and you will get it.

call me this weekend if you need help I can try to take a look. If I get parts, I will be a busy man.

Still need to get the high spots on this thing, tomorrow night is out, meeting a new gal and then the weekend should be mine....
Kenny
 

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....as most of you know, Ive completely flipped my bike around...I have many Harley lights on it...now....Harley used the frame/fender grounds for the (-)...Kawi adds an extra wire for that...Ive already used single wire Yama signals on mine without issue...front and rear signals on the Harley are single filament, so Im guessing no running lights, right ?....thats ok...I can deal with it...

Main question...is that I want to run my front "passing lights" as theyre called, switched, off of the aux lighting in the healight housing...I can do that...but I need to know if I can hook up switched LED accents to the aux leads by the battery, and safely run them both together...I know I could run each individualy that way, but can I do both simultaneously ?...the accents wouldnt draw hardly any more amps, but would it cause a short ?
Wolfie my man... I have posted up this diagram hundreds of times... and to tell you the truth you would only need to use the accessory leads in the headlight bucket to make it work... Were Volt Meter is system load.. or in your case the new lighting circuit. the brown wire in the digram would go to the grey parking light wire in the stock harness, and the switch would go on pin 85 to break the ground.
 

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Wolfie my man... I have posted up this diagram hundreds of times... and to tell you the truth you would only need to use the accessory leads in the headlight bucket to make it work... Were Volt Meter is system load.. or in your case the new lighting circuit. the brown wire in the digram would go to the grey parking light wire in the stock harness, and the switch would go on pin 85 to break the ground.
What does this do? It does not do anything to reduce the load on the aux wire. I do not see the point of the relay. Please describe what your thoughts are in the circuit you posted /// please go through it explaining the thought process.

BTW, I do not like to hook live power to #30, reason? Because when the relay is not energized power will be going to 87a as it is the NC contact. Now if you run the power to pin 87 instead of 30 and make 30 the load, then the load will tie to pin 87a when relay is de-energized and you can't get a 'short' then if you do not cap off 87a. Just an extra safety i do when using these relays.

thanks, Kenny
 

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Merc, the Accessory leads are a always hot fused 10 amp lead... but the wiring to the lead can support up to 30 amps, just switch the fuse to 25 for added security. by using the relay it will make the always hot lead only be hot after the relay until the headlight circuit is activated because the trigger wire is connected to the headlight circuit.

Another idea is to run a wire from the battery to the relay, and then from the relay up to the lights, and use the frame for the ground on the lights and the relay. Personally I like redundancy for my grounds, that way I know for sure that I have a good ground if something were to fail... IE run a wire from the battery negative to the relay pin 85 then tap that wire to frame ground as well. Then Run another wire from frame ground junction to the lights ground, splitting off and making another frame ground on the forks. This would be overkill, and not really needed, but since electricity flows from negative to positive you wouldn't overload the grounds this way... any left over power would then be pushed to the frame instead of through the the wiring harness.
 

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Merc, the Accessory leads are a always hot fused 10 amp lead... but the wiring to the lead can support up to 30 amps, just switch the fuse to 25 for added security. by using the relay it will make the always hot lead only be hot after the relay until the headlight circuit is activated because the trigger wire is connected to the headlight circuit.

Another idea is to run a wire from the battery to the relay, and then from the relay up to the lights, and use the frame for the ground on the lights and the relay. Personally I like redundancy for my grounds, that way I know for sure that I have a good ground if something were to fail... IE run a wire from the battery negative to the relay pin 85 then tap that wire to frame ground as well. Then Run another wire from frame ground junction to the lights ground, splitting off and making another frame ground on the forks. This would be overkill, and not really needed, but since electricity flows from negative to positive you wouldn't overload the grounds this way... any left over power would then be pushed to the frame instead of through the the wiring harness.
Oh in your diagram you said running lights, I guess that's the same 'cicuit' as 'head lamp' so really this relay will only be active after the bike is started, not a bad idea. However if the light bar / wolfies accessories has an on off switch, then the relay (in my humble opinion) is not needed in this config. However to get the most voltage to the light bar lights he is adding, I would run a separate wire from battery (fused) through a relay (so that it is not always hot) then to the load.



I like using a lead from the battery (fused of course) to the relay then through the relay to the load. This way the wire to the relay can be larger in size. I do not know what size wire the 'aux' wire is, but I did this same concept for my high beam, I used a 10 gauge wire from battery to relay in headlight bucket, coil driven off the high beam light wire. The larger wire - brightness / voltage difference made a huge added light difference.

So in reality, other then starting the bike with an extra 'load' wolfie can tie right into the aux leads and call it a day? No relay needed. He will likely have a switch on the light bar, therefore he can leave that 'off' to start the bike. Only issue is during the day if he leaves it 'on' then he will have a dead battery after walking back out of the bar.

I assume wolf will only be using the light bar at night, to keep un-necessary loads off the stator.

Really, it is up to him what his plans are, and I am sure we can come up with something that will work fine.

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Slim and Merc...both electrical geniuses....
I pulled the instruments and panel off today, and what I thought was a bad wire, wasnt....so, its somewhere between the Tach and mebbe the coil ? Mebbe when I put my tank back on, I pinched somethin...but, as soon as I disconnected the tach plug, the problem was gone....meh....who needs a tach and temp gauge anyway....
I got instrument pieces all over my bed right now...gonna just put em all in a box and reinstall tomorrow, after I pull the tank and check under there....

Oh, btw...all my lights worked great after I unhooked the tach plug (using just a 4A feed)....the driving lights will rarely be used, so not too worried about the draw....besides, I think I already have an upgraded stator in (as its been kickin ass), and a Shindagen RR...so I think the PO already replaced it...At 2500rpm I get about 14v kickin out...14.9 at 5k....so I think my stator will be able to handle it...

I hate electrics...its my major weak point...mebbe its because I got electricuted when I was 12...lol
 

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Thanks Slim and Merc...both electrical geniuses....
I pulled the instruments and panel off today, and what I thought was a bad wire, wasnt....so, its somewhere between the Tach and mebbe the coil ? Mebbe when I put my tank back on, I pinched somethin...but, as soon as I disconnected the tach plug, the problem was gone....meh....who needs a tach and temp gauge anyway....
I got instrument pieces all over my bed right now...gonna just put em all in a box and reinstall tomorrow, after I pull the tank and check under there....

Oh, btw...all my lights worked great after I unhooked the tach plug (using just a 4A feed)....the driving lights will rarely be used, so not too worried about the draw....besides, I think I already have an upgraded stator in (as its been kickin ass), and a Shindagen RR...so I think the PO already replaced it...At 2500rpm I get about 14v kickin out...14.9 at 5k....so I think my stator will be able to handle it...

I hate electrics...its my major weak point...mebbe its because I got electricuted when I was 12...lol
as long as that 4A feed is shut off with ign, or that you remember to always turn off your driving lights then go for it.

I like a relay driven off of ign, so that when you shut the bike off, you got no power up there, but I am anal I guess. Or I had to push start my bike too many times cause I left the heated suit on by accident heh

Take your time, make sure the wires you plugged all back together are the right colors, I assume many of the wires are actually plugs so you can't screw it up, but any of those buttt type plugs, they can be tricky.

kenny
 

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Tach wire is BLACK wire coming from IC ignitor and front coil.
I hope you didn't think it was a ground wire when you hooked up your lights.

All the gauge lighting wires are red/blue for positive and black/yellow for ground.

The accessory leads are white/blue (always hot) and black/yellow (ground)

You must have accessory power going to your tach and dash lights somehow....make sure you don't have the black tach wire tied into a black/yellow wire someplace.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got my gauges and instruments all back together today....then was on the phone with a few different folks for the rest of the day...my Mom aint doin too good...gotta go down there on tues....I got all day tomorrow and Monday to find the problem....
 
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