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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I am a new member of the Forum even though I have VN700-A1 for over eight years without any problem until recently when the bike fell down as a result of strong wind I started having problem with the stator. I purchased a stator plate for mod from gcextreme and I am going to do the mod tomorrow without removing the engine. I am asking for any advice on what to and what to avoid. I heard that I have to drain the engine oil, anything else I shall do before I start cutting with Dremal.
Thanks
 

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Dr. Vulcanstein
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Hello everyone, I am a new member of the Forum even though I have VN700-A1 for over eight years without any problem until recently when the bike fell down as a result of strong wind I started having problem with the stator. I purchased a stator plate for mod from gcextreme and I am going to do the mod tomorrow without removing the engine. I am asking for any advice on what to and what to avoid. I heard that I have to drain the engine oil, anything else I shall do before I start cutting with Dremal.
Thanks
I would avoid doing this mode without removing the side case from the engine. You risk getting metal in the engine. Some have done this with success, some without. I wouldn't chance it, it only takes about 2 hrs to pull the motor.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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Glory Rider recently did this and posted the process with pics. He ran into a few bumps and went the extra mile by rewinding his stator at home (even more pics).

All of the pros, cons, and members thoughts about the process are here.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44450&highlight=glorious+electrical+issues

You will see a lot of negative thoughts on the issue but trust me when I say his bike now runs great, I rode it today
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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I would avoid doing this mode without removing the side case from the engine. You risk getting metal in the engine. Some have done this with success, some without. I wouldn't chance it, it only takes about 2 hrs to pull the motor.
All of the pros, cons, and members thoughts about the process are here.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...critrical+issues
X3

Read the verses !

90% of experienced Vulcan Riders/ mechanic's will/do advise NOT to perform stator Mod W/O pulling the Cover....which involves an engine tilt @ minimum !

fyi: ...most would + approve if you installed a TPE Stater. (TPE.com)

How many miles on your engine....How's your damper's ? (mine went out @ 13K miles....sucks when they do go out).

Dampers = $40.00 for 6

:smiley_th
 

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Banned
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Hay...another Limey...cool....welcome brother !!!!...a few from the UK here btw....if the bike got wonky afer it went down, get it to operating temps when on the centerstand, if you have one, if not the sidestand....then bleed the cooling system....

One time, my bike went over when I was just moving it in the carport (thats UK lingo for garage for you US dolts, lol)....ran like sheit after, until I bled the system, then after ran like a raped ape (no idea where thats from, but describes perfectly)....try doing a proper bleed before anything else....
 

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Glenn C.
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If you are going to do it without removing the engine, and cut it out on the bike, then have a vacuum/shopvac running right there to suck up the debris.

Yes you may get filings in the engine, be best to suck it out and run a few quarts of oil in it and drain it out a few time.

Can it be done without removing the engine, YES, is it 100% recommended, NO.
But if done right you can avoid any damage.

Take your time, be patient, and if you have a friend to help thats even better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys thank you all for your respond and support. I finally took my time and decided to remove the stator without removing the engine. I must admit is mentally challenging but I trust myself I can do it. Well, I did it but not just yet finished everything. I am very sure there is no debris in the engine because I cover all the gaps with tape used vacuum plus I flushed with two cans of break cleaner. I still haven, pull out or cut the power cables yet. I need to carefully study how to pull the entire power cables out. By next week I may get the bike ready for my daily ride to work.
 

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I did mine while the engine was on the bike 14000 miles ago. Had just put in a new stator by engine pull and it failed at 400 miles. Said I wasn't pulling the engine again. If I had my bike lift at the time I would have pulled the engine again I suppose. Had both knees replaced and can't get down on them very well. Anyway, had no problems to date. Granted I used old oil (10 gallon) from our shop and flushed the casing by pouring it through the stator hole and out the drain. I also filled the case up to the point of running out the stator hole to stop any dust from blowing around in the engine while cutting. Shop vac and oil soak rags to seal the holes. Changed oil and filter after 5 minutes of run time. Then changed filter after 3 miles of riding. Complete oil and filter change after 100 miles of riding. No problems. THEN I wished I had pulled the casing so I could have done the balancers. I questioned myself for the first 1000 miles as to will everything be OK. I never had a single shaving in the drain screen. Thank You Lord.
Trick is to cut very slowly. Filter will caught the remaining dust. It will caught the shaving. But shaving get in the oil pumping before they get to the filter. Is it doable? Heck yeh! Is there a chance problems can become of it due to shavings? Heck Yeh! CUT SLOWLY! NO SHAVING!!! FLUSH WELL!

Oh, one more thing I would like to suggest. Don't use brake cleaner or fluid such as brake fluid. They will cause rubber to swell and the balancers are rubber. Diesel fuel would be better and can be flushed out with used oil. It is oil based.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Chuck, thanks a million. I am going to flush the engine with diesel and engine oil then do as you did changing oil and filter at 5 minutes run and 100 miles. At the moment because of work I haven't got the time to try to pull the stator power cables yet. I would try to do it on Saturday, may be I have to unscrew the engine side cover a little bit to pull the cables. Once again thanks all for your support especially Glenn for encouraging me to joing the forum, it has been a great support from you all.
 

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I used the existing rubber grommets. I cut the bullet connectors off the stator wires, soldiered a 3 foot piece of wire to them and pulled the wires out through the case. Tie the loose end of the 3 ft piece to something so that you don't pull it all through the hole. Makes a pull line. Then I cut the connectors off of the rebuilt stator and soldiered them to the pull line and pulled them back through the grommet. I soldier the stator wires to the harness wires, no pulls. Worked really easily.
 

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I used the existing rubber grommets. I cut the bullet connectors off the stator wires, soldiered a 3 foot piece of wire to them and pulled the wires out through the case. Tie the loose end of the 3 ft piece to something so that you don't pull it all through the hole. Makes a pull line. Then I cut the connectors off of the rebuilt stator and soldiered them to the pull line and pulled them back through the grommet. I soldier the stator wires to the harness wires, no plugs. Worked really easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just an update of the progress of my mode project. I did managed to pull out the stator power cables together with the grommet, but only by slightly unscrewing the side engine cover just enough to open about 4mm. I took the stator for rewind, hope to get it back on Wednesday or Thursday next week. I would like to attach fuse on the stator power cables when I put back on the bike. What is the recommended Amp for the fuse. Also I want to move r/r to the left side. I appreciate any guide.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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Not really sure fuses on the 3 yellow wires coming out of the stator will be useful but each yellow wire runs at about 6.8v each. If a factory stator puts out about 24 amps after rectifying to 12v that's about 16 amps at 6v per leg of the stator. Using 12v fuses on a 6v wire will slightly change the fuse amp capacity but I'd suggest using 12v 20A fuses with the stock 18??? ga stock wire although the charts show you should be ok with a 25A fuse as long as the wire is at least 18 ga. I've messed with those wires and I doubt the stock stator wires are much thicker than 18 ga.

Several people here have made a little bracket to bolt the R/R to the left side exhaust mount but I just used a glob of epoxy to glue my R/R on the backside of my left side cover.

Once again,,,, I'm not really sure using fuses between the stator and R/R would in any way be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You guys are genius, everyone of you is so helpful. I think I am going to abandon the idea of putting fuses on the stator power cables. I like the idea of gluing the R/R on the backside of the left side cover with epoxy. I will buy a new R/R and glue it there and leave the old one under the battery case. At my last oil change I used epoxy glue to repair a crack on the oil screen mesh before I ordered new one from Kawasaki UK. Thanks a lots.
 

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I bent a plate from aluminum and bolted the r/r behind the left side cover. Pretty simple to do.

each yellow wire runs at about 6.8v each. If a factory stator puts out about 24 amps after rectifying to 12v that's about 16 amps at 6v per leg of the stator. Using 12v fuses on a 6v wire
???

Those stator wires carry 40-70v ac.

There's an old post about fusing the stator legs, one guy did do it, but the consensus was, a blown fuse could possibly take out the whole stator by overloading the remaining two legs.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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I bent a plate from aluminum and bolted the r/r behind the left side cover. Pretty simple to do.



???

Those stator wires carry 40-70v ac.

There's an old post about fusing the stator legs, one guy did do it, but the consensus was, a blown fuse could possibly take out the whole stator by overloading the remaining two legs.
They only carry higher voltages when left to an open lead. When they are hooked to the R/R and battery the load holds them down to about 6.8v or half the system battery voltage.

That's the way all permenate magnet alternators work. Even a car alternator puts out over 100v when the leads are open. The battery sucks them down to the required voltage.
 

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Sparky!!!
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you are wrong Fool. Input into the Rectifier part of the R/R is 40-70 VAC... the stator itself never produces DC voltage.. if it did, there wouldn't be a need for the rectifier and only a Voltage Regulator would be used. A car alternator has a rectifier bridge soldered into it. So the voltage coming out on the battery terminals is already in DC voltage instead of AC voltage, the Voltage Regulator, not the battery, Regulates how much voltage is produced. Also on a car alternator, they don't use permanent magnets, but rather electronic magnets, hence there is a field wire in the voltage regulator.. when voltage goes above spec, it collapses the field and the alternator doesn't produce any electricity, when the voltage drops below a certain voltage the field wire closes and and the alternator starts producing voltage again.

Now if we are talking automotive generators, you are a little more correct, but the voltage regulator, still is the part of the system that drops the voltage from 60-70 volts DC to 6 Volts DC (generators were used for 6 volt systems originally then briefly used for 12 volt systems before alternators started becoming the norm).
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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you are wrong Fool. Input into the Rectifier part of the R/R is 40-70 VAC... the stator itself never produces DC voltage.. if it did, there wouldn't be a need for the rectifier and only a Voltage Regulator would be used. A car alternator has a rectifier bridge soldered into it. So the voltage coming out on the battery terminals is already in DC voltage instead of AC voltage, the Voltage Regulator, not the battery, Regulates how much voltage is produced. Also on a car alternator, they don't use permanent magnets, but rather electronic magnets, hence there is a field wire in the voltage regulator.. when voltage goes above spec, it collapses the field and the alternator doesn't produce any electricity, when the voltage drops below a certain voltage the field wire closes and and the alternator starts producing voltage again.

Now if we are talking automotive generators, you are a little more correct, but the voltage regulator, still is the part of the system that drops the voltage from 60-70 volts DC to 6 Volts DC (generators were used for 6 volt systems originally then briefly used for 12 volt systems before alternators started becoming the norm).
In this case I suspect you've got your electrical theory wrong SV. I've been designing and building PM generator sets for years now using only a rectifier to convert the 3 phase AC to DC direct using the battery to control the system voltage. A controller then takes excess power and burns it off like our R/R's do.
 

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The battery sucks them down to the required voltage.
I'll have to disagree there, and on other points. Why bother with voltage regulators if the battery is going to regulate voltage? Batteries (12v) can't handle 15v for very long before they'll burn out. Maybe that works on your design of genset, I really don't know, but not automotive and bikes. I have my own background with batteries and charging systems.

What happens when you take a battery cable loose on a running car (pre-computer age)? You're not sending 100v ac through the car's system.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I don't have my theories wrong Fool, A stator produces AC voltage, a battery can not convert AC Voltage to Dc voltage, other wise there would be AC batteries... and no need for Phone chargers, and other kinds of battery chargers...

I want you to do something when You get the time... I would do it right now, if my bike was actually running, but since it is torn down to the frame and getting completely rebuilt (hopefully this year it will be done if I can finish my gas tank)... Take the R/R plug loose from the R/R and unplug the three stator legs from the R/R harness..
Make 4 jumper wires about 6-10" long. 3 wires have bullet connectors on one end, and 1/4" female spades on the other, the 4th wire has a 1/4 female spade and an alligator clip. Plug the 3 jumper wires with the bullet connectors into the Stator leads, and the other ends onto the R/R on pins A1, A2, and A3. The remaining wire plug into R/R pin G and clip to and engine case bolt. Pins A1-3 are going to read 40-70 VAC while pins G and B are going to read 12.5-14.5 VDC. Now take and make another Jumper wire with an alligator clip and 1/4" Female spade and hook it up to pin B on the R/R and clip it to the positive battery terminal... redo the checks, the voltage reading will stay the same as with the battery wire unhooked (if you have a good battery, a bad battery will bring the charging voltage down).

By doing the first test you have completely removed the battery from the equation and proves your theory wrong..I have done these tests, along with making my own system load tester.

One thing you also forget Fool, I am Master ASE certified in Computer/electronic troubleshooting and repair, Hydraulic/air brake systems, Power Train, Steering suspension, Heavy Equipment, Small engines, and many many more. I am currently Self employed at a well established repair shop making 90 bucks an hour flat rate. Yes the owner might be my Dad, but I set my rates to other shops in the area, and am still cheaper than any one else in the tri-state region. If my customers didn't think I was worth 90 buck an hour they wouldn't bring me their stuff to work on...
 
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