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Young Gun
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I did a spline lube. That part went great, but while I was in there I found that the oil seal on the drive shaft end of the final drive is leaking gear oil into the drive shaft.

What did I do? To the Verses!

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1114

also

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3750

These posts are great, and very helpful - if the seal on the wheel side is the problem.

My deal is the other seal.




Clymers manual has nothing on this. The downloaded manual DOES.

I need this special Kaw part ($80+)


to remove this piece:


..And who knows what else. haha. I'm in the process of trying to make a tool to use in place of the the special socket wrench, but it's kinda tough to find something that works. Not sure what all else I'll need to remove to get at that seal...

If anyone has done this before, please help!
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
ok, I haven't made a tool for this specific part, but have made one for a simular nut.. just a lot bigger... find a socket that is the same diameter and weld tabs onto it to go inside the tangs.
 

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Premium Member
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4,778 Posts
Or use a Dremel to cut away the non-tang sections.
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
^ that works even better... if there isn't a lot of torque needed on the nuts... the nut I needed to get off was torqued to an ungodly amount of ft lbs... irrc, the nut I was working on had about 1200 lb/ft. so needless to say the socket broke, hence welding.
 

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Registered
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796 Posts
You could also go to an auto parts store and use a 4X4 hub socket. They loan them for free. Just take the housing with you to match it up.
 

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Young Gun
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
These are all great ideas! Thanks a bunch guys.

Before posting this thread, I had actually already been through a couple "tools". Both were pretty much made with stuff in arm's reach of me at the time, and were thus, pretty awful.

Here's #1:




This was pretty awkward and slipped off easily.

#2 I dremeled out of a PVC end cap because is was really quick and easy to work with. I also thought the square end cap would work nicely in a crescent wrench. Naturally something so quick and easy didn't work at all! Didn't even bother with a pic of #2.

On the next "tool" I was gonna get serious and find some thick walled round tubing the right size and cut the teeth into the end of it. Was gonna weld any random old socket up on the other end and go after it again.

In the morning I'm headed to El Autozone to see if they may have a hub socket that will fit. Assuming that doesn't pan out, I'm going to look for a big effin socket to notch out

Fun fact: The threads on this piece are LEFT HANDED. This is important! lol

I'll let you know how it goes!
 

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Young Gun
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
btw 1200 lb/ft?! Lordy! I think spec on this is around 180 lb/ft.. lucky me?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
^ that works even better... if there isn't a lot of torque needed on the nuts... the nut I needed to get off was torqued to an ungodly amount of ft lbs... irrc, the nut I was working on had about 1200 lb/ft. so needless to say the socket broke, hence welding.
btw 1200 lb/ft?! Lordy! I think spec on this is around 180 lb/ft.. lucky me?
slim is a mechanic in the army. He was probably working on a ten ton truck or a tank. Probably using a 1" drive impact driver too. :wow:

Since you already have the final drive off, phone a Kawi shop and talk to the manager or head mechanic. Find out if that is the only part that has to come out to change the seal. If you carry it in and it only takes a few minutes to remove and replace the part, they may not even charge you for the time. Maybe??
If the Kawi shop is closer than an auto parts store with a loaner tool, you save gas too.
 

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carbon unit
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369 Posts
Dude! I really like how you're going about this. I'm confident you'll get it fixed.
Just remember to not misplace any of the shims and replace them as they were.
 

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Bandito
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160 Posts
Did you ever get it off?
 

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Young Gun
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys,
Sorry for not updating. I was hoping to end my next post with "and then he blasted down the road, never to be seen again", no such luck! Don't have much time now, but will try to give an update tonight.

Here's a pic in the mean time.
 

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Young Gun
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Man I would have already had that thing in a vise and used a big screw driver and a hammer...LOL
I know right! I did actually give that technique some time and effort, but soon gave up. It seemed to be doing more damage and didn't budge the part at all.

I took Slim's advice and went out and found a socket that would work.

1 7/8" to be exact




First I marked the teeth locations on the final drive, then transfered the marks to the socket. I tried to make the teeth so they were on thicker areas of the socket wall.




The socket was surprisingly soft to grind and easy to shape. I used an angle grinder, bench grinder and a little filing. You could do the job using any one of these alone, bench grinder would be easiest.

Take your time shaping the teeth, those biga$$ sockets aren't real cheap.



Finished




Get that sucker to fit perfect and grab a cheater bar. LEFT hand threads remember! (righty = loosen)




With a little patience, the part came off like buttah.


 

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Young Gun
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Success! Well... kinda. I'm about half way there. I was trying to skip a couple steps (and special tools) in the manual. I didn't know what the part would look like when it came out and was HOPING that I would be able to some how get the seal off with out removing this nut:



... because that specific nut requires -2- special Kaw tools to get off.



(I'm referring to page 10-10 (p.183) of the downloaded manual)

If I realllly have to, I'm pretty sure I could make the socket wrench (tool 57001-1213) but I'm at a loss on the Pinion Gear Holder (57001-1186).

It's basically a socket that fits the teeth on the splines of the final drive.

I've tried a few things on this problem so far but want to see what the forum thinks before discussing those.

So, Gurus, I once again kneel before you seeking guidance.

Help a brotha out?
 

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Young Gun
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
BTW, there were 2 shims on the inside of the final drive that were exposed when I took it apart. One of them lays flat, but the other seems to be warped and will not lay flat on a flat surface without pressure applied to it on all sides. (I can show a pic if that's confusing)

Is this a concern?
 

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Young Gun
Joined
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Welp, I bought an impact wrench and used it to get that nut off. I got the seal replaced and got everything back together. Filled the final drive (FD) up with oil and have probably put about 30 miles on it today. Every time I've checked so far the FD oil level is staying full. I don't want to jinx it... but it's lookin good so far.

I neglected to take as many pics as I meant to so I'm leaving this post a little short. In the near future I'm planning on trying my hand at mounting a new rear tire. It will give me an opportunity remove the FD again to double check that the seal is indeed not leaking. I'll also try to take a few more pics and construct a half-decent walk-through thread, since it seems we don't have one for this problem yet.
 

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carbon unit
Joined
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369 Posts
BTW, there were 2 shims on the inside of the final drive that were exposed when I took it apart. One of them lays flat, but the other seems to be warped and will not lay flat on a flat surface without pressure applied to it on all sides. (I can show a pic if that's confusing)

Is this a concern?

shouldn't be. Just put them back when you reassemble.
 
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