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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After watching buldogs rebuild and hearing the horror stories from others about flying parts, I figured there has to be a better way.

I suggest having a manual handy for rerference and visial aid, Clymer" is what I use.

STUFF YOU WILL NEED


1 Litre of 15w Fork Oil (it is enough for both forks)

2 Fork Oil Seals

2 Fork Dust Seals

2 cap retaining rings

6mm Allen Wrench Preferably 6mm Allen for 3/8 ratchet

24 oz. or 600 ml. clear measuring cup

Funnel

Dental pic or pic set

Blue Loctite

2 Foot length of 1-1/2" PCV pipe ENDS MUST BE SQUARE (to drive seals in place)

4 Foot piece of 3/16" dow rod or cleaning rods from a shotgun/rifle cleaning kit

1 roll of shop or paper towels

latex or nitrile gloves

Bearing grease or vaseline

Drain tub

Duct Tape

newspaper

1 quart mineral spirits

Jack


1) Place bike on center stand

2) Break loose the 6mm Allen bolt at the very bottom of the outer fork tube. "do not remove just break free" do the same for the axle nut, pinch bolt, caliper bolts.

3) Place a piece of wood and jack under the front of the engine and raise the wheel about 1" off the ground.

4) Remove both calipers

5) Remove the axle pinch bolt and axle, slide wheel foreward then remove the speedo drive from the wheel.

6) Place several layers of newspaper and drain tub under the forks.

7) Remove the 6mm allen bolt from the bottom of the forks and drain plug at the lower rear.

8) Remove the fender and slowly push the lower tube upward a couple times to pump out the fluid.

9) Use a screwdriver and hammer to remove the fork dust seal, slide seal up to the lower tree.

10) Use dental pick or small screwdriver to remove the retaing ring above the oil seal in the outer tube.

11) Grab the outer tube and slide all the way up, using a couple of downward blows the oil seal will seperate from the outer tube.

12) In the bottom of the outer tube there are three parts, (the ones that go flying with other methods) place some paper towels on your bench or floor and turn tube upside down to get the parts.

13) Turn tubes upside down on paper towels and let drain.

14) remove the cap at the top of the forks

15) Use a 10mm socket, extension and ratchet to press down on the fork cap and remove the retaining ring with a dental pick. The cap is under a little spring pressure so lift up slowly.

16) Remove the spacer tube that is under the fork cap.

17) loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts and remove the fork tube.

18) Remove both seals from the inner tube, then remove the washer and slider bushing. (leave the fork bushing on the fork tube)

19) There are five parts inside the inner tube (damper rod, damper rod piston, rebound spring, fork spring and fork spring seat "washer") turn tube upside down on some paper towels and newspaper, then remove the fork spring seat, fork spring, damper rod and spring. "they will come out in this order, leave the damper rod piston attached to the damper rod"

20) Time to thoroughly clean both tubes, damper rod, and the three valve parts that were in the bottom outer tube, the other parts just wipe clean.

21) For the tubes, wad up a couple paper towels and place inside the tube, pour in a little mineral spirits (to soak the towels) push down with a broom handle and back up with the dow rod. Do this a couple times wet and then with dry towles until clean. "use new towles each time"

After all parts are clean we can now begin to assemble.


1) Slide the small rebound spring inside the inner tube, use a small amount of fork oil to lube the damper rod piston and slide the damper all the way down the tube.

2) Install the long fork spring, spring seat "washer" and spacer tube into the inner tube. Use a couple of pieces of duct tape and press the spacer tube even with the fork tube and tape in place.

3) Place newspaper on bench or counter and lay the fork tube in it's side on the paper.

4) Use a little bit of grease on the oil lock piece "tapered end" and slide on the damper rod.

5) Take the spring "tapered side" and press on the valve, put a little grease on the flat side of valve and install in the oil lock piece.

6) Take the outer tube "slider" and install the small drain bolt then slide over the the damper rod and inner tube until it hits bottom.

7) After you have cleaned and dried the 6mm Allen bolt apply blue Loctite and install bolt to proper torque specs. I use an impact gun for this, you made need to use a vise or an extra pair of hands. If using a vise take every precaution not to damage the inner tube surface.

8) Remove the tape from the top of the tube and apply some fork oil to the inner fork tube and slide the "brass" outer fork bushing and washer down the fork tube.

9) Apply some fork oil on the inner wipers of the Fork Oil Seal and some extra oil at the top of the fork seal. You can use a piece of sandwich bag at the top of the fork tube and then slide down the seal or slide the seal without it. Make sure the small groove is facing up and the large groove on the seal is facing down.

10) Make sure your piece of PVC pipe is clean and slide down on top of the oil seal. put a piece of cardboard on the floor and set the fork on top of it. Use the flat side of your hammer or 2lb hammer and press the seal into place.

11) Install the retaining ring, make sure it is seated.

12) Slide the fork dust seal down and repeat above process for oil seal.

13) Clean and dry the inner fork tube and install back into the triple trees and tighten bolts to spec.

14) Take your measuring cup and mark 12.5 oz with a piece of tape. ( 1/2 inch will do) Pour in fork oil until it reaches the tape. Air bubbles should be above the bottom of the tape line.

15) Install funnel into the top of the fork tube, slowly pour oil into fork, once oil is out of the measuring cup continue to hold and count to 30. 1 1000, 2 1000 and so on. With the residual oil in the cup and funnel this will give you the correct amount of oil. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN AND DRY THE CUP AND FUNNEL and repeat process for the other fork to ensure the same amount of oil.

16) Install the fork cap and NEW retaining ring and chrome cap.

17) Install the fender, speedo drive, spacer, wheel, axle, pinch bolt, and brake calipers and tighten to SPEC.
 
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Premium Member
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4,778 Posts
Superb posts like this and professionals like Lance make this forum uniquely special.

:beerchug:
Amen. I'm collecting all these nice bits of information so I'll have 'em when I need 'em! Thanks, lance.
 

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Registered
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409 Posts
Awesome. Thank you.
 

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Registered
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491 Posts
Amen. I'm collecting all these nice bits of information so I'll have 'em when I need 'em! Thanks, lance.
Me Too!

Nice contribution to the forum, Lance! You may want to add a link for this write-up to your signature block, Fergy style!

Thanx Lance! :smiley_th
 

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Premium Member
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1,766 Posts
Superb posts like this and professionals like Lance make this forum uniquely special.

:beerchug:
ditto, most excellent ! I have done this job and this is great.

Jon
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Great write up lance. I'm not sure if I read it in the Verses or elsewhere, but someone said that spraying a silicone lubricant on the fork tubes of a bike when new, and doing it regularly thereafter, extended the life of the seals at least double or triple compared to identical bikes on which it was never done.

So clean the bug guts off folks, and lube or shine up the fork tubes.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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369 Posts
Good write up Lance. I did read from somewhere a good tip for pressing the new seal in place: Put the old seal between the new one and the pipe. That way there is little chance that you can damage the new seal. I used it myself and it worked great.

Related to this thread, I have been playing with the idea of having a thread of the symptoms people have had with their bike and the cause/fix of the problem. Could be useful for tracing down the source of your problem. If anyone thinks it might be a good idea, you are welcome to refine it.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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4,133 Posts
I replaced my seals. I did not go into that much work. I just pulled them out the top with out dissambly. But I did print this out for later use incase I have to rebuild some other forks.
Thanx Lance.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
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7,960 Posts
OK, I found the printable version in the Thread Tools at the top of the page.
Is there a way to highlight and print only the first post in this thread.
I want to conserve this expensive printer ink.
 

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Premium Member
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4,778 Posts
OK, I found the printable version in the Thread Tools at the top of the page.
Is there a way to highlight and print only the first post in this thread.
I want to conserve this expensive printer ink.
Being technologically challenged, I copy it (highlight and right click) and paste it into a Word document.
 

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Rogue Warrior
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130 Posts
Great write up! Thanks!!
 

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Registered
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278 Posts
Man-O-Man -- how great is it to have access to this kind of expertise?! Thanks Ron, I'm saving this for later. What a great forum!
 

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Premium Member
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81 Posts
Hi Gordon,

If you go to the thread you want, highlight the text you want by clicking at the start of the text, hold down the left key & drag down to the end of the text to turn it all blue. Release the left key. The text needs to stay blue.

Hold the arrow over the highlighted text and do a right click. In the dialogue box, left click on copy.

Open up Word, or whatever software you use for letter writing. When you see the cursor flashing, select Paste (or Ctrl+V). The text should appear in the document.

It can then be edited or printed if you want from there. Why not save it in your Forks section of your VN750 Folder I mentioned yesterday!
 

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Premium Member
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81 Posts
Addition!!!

I really must read to the end of a bloody thread before sticking my oar in!

:doh:
 

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1985 VN-700
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418 Posts
I need to do mine. I was thinking of putting black boots on like the ones on dirt bikes. I saw a Harley Sportster with these and it looked slick
 
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