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Knifemaker I read on another post that someone else thought about it and did that, and someone commented on how the frame was not designed to come apart there and it lost around 80% of the strength within the frame.....
I guess it could lose some strength if you just bolt the frame back together....my idea was to cut off part of the left side frame to do the stator replacement and then , using some pieces of steel rod or tubing that fit inside the frame tubing, WELD the piece back...Hit it with some black spray paint and your done.

The weld would actually make the that side of the frame stronger than it was before.

I should also point out that the Vulcans frame is likely stronger than it needs to be in the first place. This is not a 150 hp machine. And most folks here don't toss it over and test the rigidity of the frame at high speeds....and those that have likely could not tell the difference.

And the "engineers" that designed the Vulcan were pinheads anyway...because they made the WRONG SIDE of the frame removable. they did this to speed up assembly....NOT to make working on the bike any easier. Poor planning for sure, a mark of bad engineering.

Cutting holes in factory designed engine pieces? Yeah baby.. that's called "customizing". :smiley_th



KM
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)

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I am gonna try this sometime in the next month with a bit of help from people who know what they are doing. I have one question - the 3 yellow, hot cables that come from the stator - where do they connect? Do this mod somehow relocate that connection on the other end? I guess my real question is - where do they connect to the wiring harness?
 

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The three yellow wires go to the regulator/rectifier. When you actually replace the stator, send your old one to Tim Parrot: http://www.tpe-usa.com/ For a fraction of the cost of a new stator he will rewind it to better than original specs. If you also ask him to put longer wires from the stator, he will. This will allow you to eliminate the bullet connectors in the stator leads. Those connections can corrode, overheat, and lead to stator failure. I can't find my link to replacement six pin connectors that connect the stator wires to the r/r, but in the stock location under the battery box, it often gets eaten by battery acid.

That's another reason to relocate the r/r or get an AGM battery.
 

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Thanks, Slim.
 

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Has anyone tried to make the frame where it's removeable like the right side?
I have talked to a buddy of mine, and he is going to help me draw up some plans to do just that.
It will be similar to the right side with a different aspect. We are going to cut the frame ahead of the downtube in a straight spot, put a piece of rod inside of it, weld it together so it can't move, then drill holes in the tubes to bolt it back together. On the front, we will make it similar to the right side, cut the frame, weld a flat piece on each part of the tube, make them offset where they can be sandwiched together similar to the right side, then bolt it together. He has a buddy that works in a steel shop who can get the right type of steel, and we will make a mockup before we even think about doing any cutting.
I'm going to have him do me up a drawing to show you guys what I am talking about.
It will facilitate getting the engine out easier, and to get to the left side cover off w/o notching or cutting the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
TuxedoSeven or anyone who has done this mod.
(1) Is it absolutly necessary to cut off the original Stator wires (short) and leave in place. I guess there is a reason you have to notch out a new hole for the wires to come through. For some reason this hole scares me the most.
(2) One more thing that I'm drawing a blank on.... The 3 - 6mm X 15mm machine screws and the 3 - 6mm X 25mm ones appear to both go into the same 3 holes .... just from the opposite sides?
(3) Are the holes "threaded" or "tapped"? Do they meet in the middle of a threaded hole? Are there 6mm nuts somewhere, or am I just not getting it. TIA
(1) No, it is not necessary to notch the outer case and reroute the wires, and is not done in the TOC mod where they tell you to fish the wires through the existing hole.
(2) The suggested machine screw sizes will work if you use 16 gauge plate, as I did. If you use a heavier gauge plate, you will need longer screws and a thicker gasket between the inner and outer case.
(3) Yes, the holes of the inner case are threaded all the way through and the machine screws should meet in the middle, or, if you prefer, use one long screw and secure with a nut. Please use thread lock.
 

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(1) No, it is not necessary to notch the outer case and reroute the wires, and is not done in the TOC mod where they tell you to fish the wires through the existing hole.
(2) The suggested machine screw sizes will work if you use 16 gauge plate, as I did. If you use a heavier gauge plate, you will need longer screws and a thicker gasket between the inner and outer case.
(3) Yes, the holes of the inner case are threaded all the way through and the machine screws should meet in the middle, or, if you prefer, use one long screw and secure with a nut. Please use thread lock.
On #1 - It must be a lot easier to not try and fish the wires through the existing wire hole since you decided to notch out a new one right. Or as with the TOC mod do you have to go ahead and do the engine removal the first time to reuse the wireing's original hole. I guess I will have a better idea once I'm inside.

#2 I am using the 16 guage plate. So far I have only found 16mm and 25mm screws. I hope there is room for the extra 1mm of screw. If not I'll keep hunting or try and shorten the 16mm a bit.

THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE MOD AND THESE ADDITIONAL TIPS
 

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Nice vision of easier repair. I ask before ."Where are all the shavings" You will never convince a mechanic that these little shavings wont hurt anything. The smaller the more of an enemy. The bigger ones just plug up bigger holes. Ya know? If it were apart and off the bike that would be the best way to repair for possible replacements.
Amsoil man
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Nice vision of easier repair. I ask before ."Where are all the shavings" You will never convince a mechanic that these little shavings wont hurt anything. The smaller the more of an enemy. The bigger ones just plug up bigger holes. Ya know? If it were apart and off the bike that would be the best way to repair for possible replacements.
Amsoil man
Just one major question? Where are all the dremel shavings or disc shavings?.Ya are not going to wash all those out for sure.Ya think?Inventive way of repair though.
Amsoil man
Most of the debris would accumulate on the inside of the flywheel drum which you could wipe out after the stator is removed. The rest - well, that's what the oil filter is for.
The side cover stator mod would be a good idea even during an engine removal. Stators go bad, sometimes right after an engine removal. I'm a big fan of 10 minute repairs.
I stuffed oily rags into the ports before cutting. Inside I found no shavings and a minimal amount of metal dust which had accumulated in the rotor drum and was easily wiped away. I followed with an oil and filter change.



Nobody's trying to convince you of anything, brother. Take it or leave it,
but maybe you could add something new to the conversation, ya think ?
p.s.: I had a great ride yesterday on the bike that's falling apart from all those shavings.
 

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#2 I am using the 16 guage plate. So far I have only found 16mm and 25mm screws. I hope there is room for the extra 1mm of screw. If not I'll keep hunting or try and shorten the 16mm a bit.
Just a general shop tip here for when you cut or file the end of a threaded fastener.
Screw a nut on first so it will clear the male bolt threads when it is screwed off.:smiley_th
 

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Planning on fishing the wires but if I can't .. where did you get the wiring grommet you used for the hole in the cover? So I can make a exact cut. I didn't see specs for it or the size slot.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Planning on fishing the wires but if I can't .. where did you get the wiring grommet you used for the hole in the cover? So I can make a exact cut. I didn't see specs for it or the size slot.
The Electrosport stator I used came with a new rubber grommet attached.
Most of the go-to guys here recommend Tim Parrott stators.

http://stores.ebay.com/Tim-Parrott-Enterprizes

[email protected]

I don't know if they come with a new grommet but I'm sure someone here can let us know.
I traced the grommet on the outer cover and ground to just inside of the pencil lines so that it would be a snug fit.
If you choose to fish the wires, search the forum for tips. Here's one:

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13318

p.s. This is the best site going.
Doing my splines this week and thanks to fergy in advance for the spot on write up.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274
 

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Thanks. I ordered the electrosport just waiting for it to get here. Trying to line up the ducks so I can get this done and back on the road. I like this forum so far! I'm not a mechanic but I pretend to be .. LOL .. wish me luck.
 

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Congrats on a great mod, but I hope I never have to do one! (knocking on wood)

Can't wait to hear how it works out for different people.
 
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