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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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Replace Alternator / Stator Without Removing Engine
A simple mod for my 1990 VN750 / Vulcan 750 A6 using a Dremel rotary tool and about $20- in supplies from Walmart and Home Depot can be viewed at :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN-JEBCnhDI

16 gauge 12" x 12" steel plate / Home Depot / $10.
3(6mm x 15mm) + 3(6mm x 25mm) machine screws / Home Depot / $4.
High Temp silicon / Walmart /$4.

Use a compass to measure and make perfect circles.
Use modeling clay(play doh) to transfer hole locations to steel plate for drilling.
This is cool ,but not for the inept or faint of heart.That being said I'd tackle it if faced with a stator failure. Good job!
 
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I would like to order your ready made kit complete with plate etc. How much?
 

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I am interested in tools that are used to open holes and what is the diameter of the hole and that the thickness of sheet metal?
 

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Replace Alternator / Stator Without Removing Engine
A simple mod for my 1990 VN750 / Vulcan 750 A6 using a Dremel rotary tool and about $20- in supplies from Walmart and Home Depot can be viewed at :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN-JEBCnhDI

16 gauge 12" x 12" steel plate / Home Depot / $10.
3(6mm x 15mm) + 3(6mm x 25mm) machine screws / Home Depot / $4.
High Temp silicon / Walmart /$4.

Use a compass to measure and make perfect circles.Use modeling clay(play doh) to transfer hole locations to steel plate for drilling.
I am interested in tools that are used to open holes and what is the diameter of the hole and that the thickness of sheet metal?
Use a compass or tape measure to measure the outside diameter of the bolt heads pattern on the outside of the stator cover to get a good estimate of diameter of the steel holding plate needed once you get inside. (See youtube video). TuxedoSeven bought a 12"X12" piece of 16 gauge, but I bet you can get at least 4 discs out of a piece that big. Can`t get to my bike right now to measure myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)

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Brilliant!
 

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My plate is 5 1/4" across (circle with 2 5/8" radius)**. I used 16 gauge because that's what they had at my store. Heavier gauge would be fine and would only require a thicker gasket and longer screws.

Holes are 6mm (to accommodate 6mm machine screws) made with drill press through clay impression.

I'm a little concerned that we might be overthinking this because at no point during modification did I need to know what the exact dimensions of the plate were. Best to measure everything with a compass from the center of the rotor bolt so that the results are good circles of correct size.

It really is as simple as the slideshow makes it out to be.
Thanks for the measurement TS. I realize this conversion is not rocket science, and the Youtube pictures do a good job of explaining the procedure. That 5 1/4" diameter of the plate is what I wanted to estimate, to be sure I had piece in my junk drawer that was big enough before dismantling the stator case. Maybe you can add this dimension to the youtube details like you did with the 16 gauge spec.:)
 

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You guys are F'n sharp! When my stator goes, am I gonna try this mod ?
... you betcha!

I think I will use a milling bit for cleaning up the cut of the engine casting, and I will have a tool and Die shop make the plate to exact dimensions.

I do have some concern that I might get metal filings in the engine. I'll just protect as best as possible, and maybe do an oil & filter change afterward.
 

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That's one of the most exciting bits of news regarding fixes for our bikes that I've seen. I bought a '93 recently and am almost ready to put it together and test it out. One of my fears (fear of a great inconvenience more than anything else) was that the stator might be worn out. I didn't get any history on the bike. If it comes down to it I'll use this method. I've already contrived a rig to hold my shop vac hose as close as possible to the work area when cutting. Metal filings was a concern and I can't help but think minimizing the intrusion would be a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tuxedo, good job on the stator mod.

Your sig file states that you're "Inventor of the Perfect Stator Cover Mod 11/2010." We have been discussing this for a couple of years:

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?p=60633#post60633

So you're the first to try it?
I have often discussed world peace with my friends in the local pub, over a pint .
Should peace break out someday, I will not claim credit for it and I will applaud those who gave it to us.

ps: Very impressive stator oil cooler system that you developed. Thank you for posting the pics and sharing it with the community.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7306&highlight=tubing
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157605602927618/
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Tux...

I'm in the middle of the process and have an interesting situation. After cutting the inside case, I'm getting a resistance like almost a spring loaded feeling and am unable to pull the stator. I've cut the the stator wires and have moved the p/u coil wires... Am I hanging up on something. The service manual shows no spring behind the stator? I've got a '01 750... HELP!!!
I'm guessing that one of the inner case ribs isn't completely severed. This thin piece of metal will give a spring effect. Get in close with a flashlight and check that out. If that isn't it, then the hole that you cut isn't wide enough and the stator is hung up. Working the small cutting wheel to the outside of the hole (reaming) will enlarge it.

 

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Just one major question? Where are all the dremel shavings or disc shavings?.Ya are not going to wash all those out for sure.Ya think?Inventive way of repair though.
Amsoil man
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just one major question? Where are all the dremel shavings or disc shavings?.Ya are not going to wash all those out for sure.Ya think?Inventive way of repair though.
Amsoil man
Most of the debris would accumulate on the inside of the flywheel drum which you could wipe out after the stator is removed. The rest - well, that's what the oil filter is for.
I stuffed oily rags into the ports before cutting. Inside I found no shavings and a minimal amount of metal dust which had accumulated in the rotor drum and was easily wiped away. I followed with an oil and filter change.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well, you were right about the case ribs. Got those done and out cleanly. Unfortunately, I didn't get the mounting holes right and boned my stator after my third test run. Now, I'll have to fabricate a new plate and use the wear marks on the stator to modify the mounting hole location....a drag, but still having fun. I would recommend that anyone else attempting this should do a short static test run, then pull the stator again to check for wear marks before proceeding down the road. I saw that another guy had to do four plates, so having to make a second one really isn't that bad.
Sorry for your troubles.
As stated in the slideshow: Make plate before cutting engine. Modeling clay on steel plate. Press against engine. Drill through impression with drill press.
Please do not try to freehand this.
 

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Simple?

I would think just cutting the frame would be alot simpler...;)

KM
Knifemaker I read on another post that someone else thought about it and did that, and someone commented on how the frame was not designed to come apart there and it lost around 80% of the strength within the frame. Im not sure how accurate that is since i am no engineer, but it leaves that question in your head, since both downtubes would be cut and weakened, and im sure that the designers of the frame made it so that the right side piece would come out and keep its structural rigidity (check spelling). Just a thought. It would also seem it would just be a better idea to pull the engine to get to know more about your bike and how the internals of the engine fit together instead of cutting holes in factory designed engine pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)

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I have no problem changing things and doing some mods, all im saying is i personally wouldnt cut the frame down tube or the engine cover, buts just my personal preference. I have nothing against your mod, it seems like it would work great, but some mods are just not for some people.
 
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