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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my rear reflector with a trailer indicator part number AL90RK.

I put three leads on it so it can function as a running light and brake light. DOT standard is 10 times brighter for brake lights. So one lead has a series diode and a 1.5K resistor, and the other just a series diode. I put Red (running), Blue (brake) and black wires to match the stock wire colors.

I drilled two mounting holes in the plastic, and I currently have the bolts threaded into the plastic. Long term, I will replace with bolts/nuts/washers.

I cut a notch out for the leads. If done carefully, its possible to keep the original mounting holes to go back to the reflector if desired.

NOTE: THESE ARE NOT BRIGHT ENOUGH TO REPLACE YOUR BRAKE LIGHT! They are intended as a suppliment.

I want to do the same with the side reflectors up front (Amber AL90AK), but these lights are just a bit to big to fit into the reflector pocket.

I also considered mounting two amber lights vertically on this same piece, to supplement the turn signals.

The local store only had one amber light, so that will have to wait for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is a picture to show relative brightness on both running lights and brake lights.

From directly behind, it is quite a bit dimmer. However from the sides, it is fairly close in brightness.
 

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Wouldn't mind one of those, even if just a brake light.

Been working on a way to get more light out of my rear turn signals, would like to make them brake also.

The signals are smaller, sort of cateye and have a non standard bulb/socket. Either I'm soldering wires onto a bulb or making a board trimmed to fit. Probably bulb soldering.
 

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I found some different ones that fit VERY well in the front for the side reflectors. They are also reflectors, but with a built-in LED. These I plan to wire to the turn signals only, and not have a low brightness running light mode. They aren't wired up yet, so I don't have a picture of them lit.

The only modification to the plastic was to drill out the center hole to 1/4", and add a second 1/4" hole for the wires. You can still go back to the original reflector if you want.

The LED model number is C323A.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did a mock up with the amber LED turn signals. The red light has a black trim, while the amber lights have a chrome trim. By itself, the black trim looks really good with the red light. However, the chrome trim looks really nice with the amber lights. The combination with the mismatched trim, does not look good.

Aside from the trim differences, does it look too busy?

One nice side effect of mixing LED with incandescent turn signals, is the LEDs will light up first, followed by the incandescent and they will shut off first, followed by the incandescent. It will create a "movement of light" from inward outward, in the direction of the turn.
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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I like the single red in the back, nice job
I like the amber side marker too.

You asked if it looked too busy?

When you added the two turns next to the new tail/brake to me it looks crowded and busy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wouldn't mind one of those, even if just a brake light.

Been working on a way to get more light out of my rear turn signals, would like to make them brake also.

The signals are smaller, sort of cateye and have a non standard bulb/socket. Either I'm soldering wires onto a bulb or making a board trimmed to fit. Probably bulb soldering.
I am just a bracket away from mounting multi-color LEDs in the rear housing. It uses the lens mounting holes to hold a pair of high power LEDs, one facing inward to utilize the mirror, and one facing outward to face the lens.

I ran all the calculations for how hard you can drive the LEDs before heat is a problem. I sized everything for a red running light, bright red brake, and flashing amber for turn.

You can buy clear or clear smoked lenses for the stock signals too.

I have all the required measurements, but I don't have the drawing/fabrication skills to design/build the bracket.

I like the single red in the back, nice job
I like the amber side marker too.

You asked if it looked too busy?

When you added the two turns next to the new tail/brake to me it looks crowded and busy.
Ya, I am coming to the same conclusion. Crowded/busy. I wanted it to work!
 

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A bracket? Just use a piece of thin cardboard to fold into the shape of the bracket, then use the cardboard as as template. Like cereal box or card paper .

Did my R/R and mount for rear turn sigs this way. The flat aluminum stock is super easy to cut/bend/shape, but steel wouldn't be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
A bracket? Just use a piece of thin cardboard to fold into the shape of the bracket, then use the cardboard as as template. Like cereal box or card paper.
The bracket shouldn't be too hard to make. It uses the lens mounting holes and holds two LEDs, one facing forward and one backward.
The rearward one uses the stock reflector.

I rough sketched the bracket.
The distance between the mounting holes is 2.2125".
The bottom surface of the U bend needs to be about 0.55" below the mounting holes.
The tabs on the top need to extend at least 0.375" from the mounting hole before bending downward.
The bottom portion of the U needs to be at least 0.8" across (inward dimensions) to accommodate the star PCB.

I plan to use two Cree XM-L XML RGBW LEDs per signal.
I did some electrical/thermal testing at work with these. They are INCREDIBLE leds!
I modeled the housing itself too.
You can safely run the Red up to 950 mA on a 120 degree day while stopped!

Here's the circuit:
Everything that is not in the gray boxes is in an aluminum enclosure somewhere on the bike.
The gray boxes represent each signal.

They will run a constant red light at 70 mA (1/10th brake brightness, per DOT standards).
When you hit the brake, it will run the red at 700 mA.
When the turn signal is engaged, it will run the Red at 700 mA and the green at 280 mA (Amber is ~5:2 Red/Green).
It will also run an additional 25 ohm resistor to provide a load so that the built-in flasher doesn't need to be changed.
This is shared between left and right. It can be omitted, along with those two diodes, if the flasher has been changed to an LED compatible one.

Loading is also the only reason for the double diodes for the brake/run signals, to ensure that the turn signal sees the load of both the Red and Green LEDs. Those can be made single diodes with a new flasher.

I even picked out an enclosure: AN-2815-AB.
I haven't purchased any of the parts, so I don't know if it all fits.
It should though.

The values in the picture isn't clear.
Running 120R 2W
Brake 12R 15W
Turn 2x 56R 3W
Load 25R 25W
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Cool, the front has the wig wag effect.

Love this app that streams video and pics from my phone to the TV.

Need a space between the video embed and the YouTube link, can't get it to click right.

That slight delay on the rear might make you more visible. Wonder what's causing that?
 

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Cool, the front has the wig wag effect.

Love this app that streams video and pics from my phone to the TV.

Need a space between the video embed and the YouTube link, can't get it to click right.

That slight delay on the rear might make you more visible. Wonder what's causing that?
For the side indicators, I wanted them lit normally and flashing with the turn signals. The simplest way to do that was to power them from the running lights and "ground" them through the turn signal lights. Whenever the turn signal gets power, the LED has 12V on both leads and turns off. It's a neat little trick. However, it won't work if I switch to LEDs for the normal signals. It also doesn't work if I turn on the hazards AND have the key off.

In the back, the delay is really the LED turning on faster than the regular brake light. You only notice the delay because now the LED turns on instantly. I do wish that extra back light was brighter, but some is better than none.
 

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Thought maybe the tail light was incandescent. Thanks
 
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