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Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
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500 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can somebody tell me how to get the rear turn signals off to relocate them? They seem to be stuck. I've built hardware that's in orbit an even floating around the solar system, but can't figure out how to get these off. Without breaking them that is. I assumed they'd just pull out after removing the screw.:mad:
 

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Senior Member
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2,527 Posts
You have to turn them, i forget if it's left or right, then they pull out.
 

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yeah, just turn them about 90 degrees (i think either direction) and they pop right out.
 

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Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
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500 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Guys

So to do a turn signal relocation, you usually hack off the end that has the locking feature? This has turned into a bigger job than I thought.
 

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483 Posts
Kelly-

Where are you trying to relocate them to? Do you have relocation brackets?

Getting them off is pretty simple.. Just as the other members have said.. You take the screw out and you can turn them either direction about 90 degrees and they pop out..

If you have purchased a relocation kit then they will go into the kit the exact same way.. You don't have to shave anything off.. There are other MODS that you can look up if you don't have the relocation kit like Kanuck69 has in his siggy...

Give some more info on what your trying to do and what tools you have to do it and I am sure we can help you out more.
 

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Senior Member
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2,527 Posts
If you're looking to bolt them on somewhere else, they make aftermarket ones that will do that.
 

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Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
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500 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I've got the Saddlemen license plate bracket. Going to cut off the end to make it flat and use a pen tube through the bracket hole. I have the LED ring brake lights inside the turn signals already and want to keep them.
 

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Premium Member
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3,027 Posts
The signals pop right off after you remove the Phillips screw. That's what I had problems with. Even back when the bike was almost new, and I installed the Kawasaki saddlebag/turn signal relocation brackets, I stripped out the heads on both those screws. And I was using the right size screwdriver. I don't know what they are made of, but it sure doesn't seem like metal. When I finally got them out, I replaced them with Allen head bolts and flat washers.
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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2,501 Posts
The signals pop right off after you remove the Phillips screw. That's what I had problems with. Even back when the bike was almost new, and I installed the Kawasaki saddlebag/turn signal relocation brackets, I stripped out the heads on both those screws. And I was using the right size screwdriver. I don't know what they are made of, but it sure doesn't seem like metal. When I finally got them out, I replaced them with Allen head bolts and flat washers.
That is why you need the right tool, Impact Driver with a #2 bit. Place it over the screw head and then just one tap on the end. The screw will be loose and ready to come out fully intact with just a few hand turns of a screwdriver. Check this out:

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

It is only $6.99 and they have an even cheaper unit at $4.99. You can spend much more but it isn't necessary. This tool sure saves time, effort and eliminates rounding out screw heads. The driver will also take regular socket heads for stuck nuts and bolts. Its a great tool to have around just for saving the mental anguish a stuck screw creates during a simple project.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
I have an inexpensive impact driver from Princess Auto, (Canadian discount place similar to Harbor Freight I believe).
I have not used it often, but have read that higher quality ones work better.
If I were to buy another impact driver now, I would purchase the best one I could find.
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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2,501 Posts
I have an inexpensive impact driver from Princess Auto, (Canadian discount place similar to Harbor Freight I believe).
I have not used it often, but have read that higher quality ones work better.
If I were to buy another impact driver now, I would purchase the best one I could find.
I agree with buying quality but that is something that is not always measured in the selling price. Tools that get very limited use need not always be of the super industrial strength in my opinion. I rather save a little and spend that extra cash on the items that will get repeated and constant use. I guess what I mean is that you should purchase tools with the quality needed for the use you will give them. I paid less than twenty dollars for my impact driver but I also know it will last well past my needs for it. It has been lent out more than I have personally used it and it shows no wear at all.
 

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Premium Member
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3,027 Posts
I have a couple of impact drivers, but these very soft screws are screwed into what is probably very weak cast pot metal rails, and I did not want to break one. In order to actually get any turning action on a handheld impact driver, you have to hit it pretty hard. I may have been able to loosen them just by tapping on them with a regular screwdriver.

As for carbs, I would never get anywhere near one with an impact driver. I have a special box of tools just for working on carbs. I have a tiny pair of locking needle nose pliers that I use to remove the top cover and float bowl screws, and always replace them with Allen head screws when I put them back together. Carb castings are very weak. I would check the price on them before hitting them with a hammer.
 
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