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rider
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
sorry in advance everyone. this post will serve no useful purpose other than allow me to vent. for the past three hours i've been trying to remove my carburetors for cleaning/rebuilding. all cables/hoses are unattached, i just can't work the carbs out through the right side of the bike. the rubber hose attached to the front carb/cylinder is supposed to remain attached to the cylinder; the rubber hose attached to the rear carb/cylinder is supposed to remain attached to the carb. unfortunately, in the process of working the carbs out, the rear hose became unattached from the carb and remains attached to the cylinder. this is what is preventing me from removing the carbs and despite my best efforts, i'm unable to work the extremely short hose off of the rear cylinder. this is ridiculous.

i'm sweaty, hungry, and completely frustrated. i'm taking a break because if i don't, i know i'm going to break something.

cheers!
 

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Calif Rider
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725 Posts
What you did was a good Idea. You most likely would have broke something, soon. My bike is a lot newer and I have no knowlage of what you are having a problem with. I am sure somebody will jump in and give you some good advice. I have not had any major problems at this time. My most aggressive job so far was to lube the splines, and some modes that you can see in my ID to the left. Lots of luck with the complete removel.
 

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Premium Member
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3,505 Posts
Hey, Paul - I never can pull the carbs and get the boots to stay where they're supposed to stay, and come off where they're supposed to let go. So don't fret too much about that - that's an easy fix when you reinstall.

Two thoughts on getting the carbs past that boot: one is you can still pull the boot off the engine block if you can get in there to loosen the clamp between the boot and block. As I say, it's easy enough to reinstall. You might also make sure to pull the clamp that was holding the boot onto the carb - sometimes, that metal band offers just enough resistance that you can't pull the carb past the boot. Oh, and thirdly, relax when you're trying to work the carb out - it's weird, but that's definitely one of those things that the more you force it, the harder it is.

Good luck!! (And good job stepping away from the bike! :) )
 

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572 Posts
i rejetted my bike by myself about a month ago. my problem wasnt takin the carbs out its puttin em back in. good luck man
 

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93 Posts
yeah that air box is a pita to work around. you might want to think of shaving while you have the carbs out (well almost). it makes things alot easier to get them back in.
 

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rider
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
can anyone tell me what this part is?

no... it's not a mechanical heart! they are my carburetors [please note how they are in fact _out_ of my bike]! finally got them out with much twisting and prying. for anyone attempting this... the rear boot which attaches the carb to the rear cylinder was pretty much stuck onto the cylinder. my bike is a 91, so apparently over the past 16 years it's been fried onto the cylinder. it really required a lot of working and prying with a flathead to get it off. once it's out of the way, some careful maneuvering and a few twists helped to get the carbs out.

thanks to everyone who offered words of encouragement. appreciate it, as always. i'm sure i'll be back when i'm trying to get these suckers back in. i ordered new gaskets, o-rings, and diaphragms... plan to clean them thoroughly over the next week. thanks again everyone!
 

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Premium Member
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1,647 Posts
Just be sure to line up the little bumps on the boots with the bumps on the intake pipes. If you don't, the carbs wont' seat properly and it becomes a nightmare to try and get it to run right. Don't ask me how I know this!!!
 

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Zen and the art of VN750 carb removal and installation.
 

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rider
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
the saga continues...

during the initial stages of carb disassembly this evening i stripped a screw. badly. beyond salvation, i'm afraid. i'm going to take a trip to home depot tomorrow to see what sorts of fun 'stripped screw removal kits' they carry. those things exist, right? 'stripped screw removal kits'? fun ones, i hope?
 

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Premium Member
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3,505 Posts
They exist, but they don't work very well (IMHO... and experience). Which one did you strip? One on the float chamber? I did the same and finally yanked it off with a pair of vise grips and replaced it. I won't say what I did with the other one I mucked up (although I will say that JB Weld was involved...).
 

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115 Posts
Sometimes.. if the head is still there but the grooves are stripped I use a sharp chisel to grab on the side of the head to turn it. Used this method several times ;) And of course since your replacing the screw who cares!!
 

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yep, cindy... one of the screws on the float chamber.

anyway... so... i'm picking the carbs up from the machine shop tomorrow after completely obliterating that screw. they were able to get it out apparently.

the saga continues...
Hooray for machinists!! It's a saga many of us have shared, so you're in plenty of company here. Keep asking, and folks will keep providing suggestions along the way to make it easier.

good luck - and have fun!! :)
 

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rider
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
disassembling carbs, following the clymer manual instructions.

two questions:

1. i'm having problems unscrewing the main needle jet holder [see pic]. it looks like i'd need to fit a socket over this thing to unscrew it, but the appropriately sized socket won't fit due to the main needle jet holder's proximity to the wall of the carb. i've tried needle-nose pliers and a wrench without success... what's the best tool for this job?

2. 'use a small screwdriver or awl and carefully pry the float pin free from the float chamber.' [see pic]. is this pin essentially shaped like a staple? should i just be able to pull it straight up? i've tried leveraging a small screwdriver in there without success. if i get a grip on the pin with pliers, can i just pull it straight up?

thanks! wondering if i've gotten myself in too deep with this project... i'm concerned i'm not going to be able to put everything back together correctly. too late to turn back now. here's one other question... i've read a lot about people rejetting on here... is there reason for me to invest in different needles? i'm thinking i should take care of this now while the carbs are out.
 

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Hey, Paul -
I had the same trouble with the main jet holder and just left it alone. You might try splooting a little acetone or carb cleaner in there to see if it loosens up some of the gunk, but mostly just make sure any holes or vents are clear in there (lots of gas residue on parts fom your pics, so definitely check all vents - manual cleaning is fine as long as you don't leave any little bits in there). Do you have a Clymer's? If you look on page 362, picures 38 and 39, you'll see how the pivot pin goes in - it's long on the end that is sitting in the plastic float (right by your arrow), and short on the end going into the metal. And, yeppers, it's straight so just pull up; when you reinstall, press down on the two raised areas in the metal section (the mounting boss). That'll keep it straight on the way in.

And, sorry, yep, too late to turn back, so push on ahead! But you've got lots of support -when in doubt, shout out! No reason to rejet if you aren't having any problems with the bike running (i.e., if you just pulled the carbs to clean them and didn't change anything else like your exhaust system, ear shave or anything like that). Just get everything cleaned up, make sure to install new gaskets, and you'll be good to go.
 

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rider
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
cindy, you rock. thanks so much for the response.

i actually was having problems with the bike running. there was always the strong odor of gas, the bike wouldn't idle properly and every once in a while it would stall and i wouldn't be able to get it started unless i pulled off the vacuum tube that connects the carbs to the petcock. i assumed something was going on with the carbs and figured it wouldn't hurt to take them out and give them a good cleaning.

anyway, thanks again... i'm going to dig back into this.
 

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Don't fret none I stripped 2 screws on the float cover, Craftsman screw out to the rescue got mine out with out to much trouble. The stupid thing I did was forgot to remove the two factory lead plugs and clean the last two adjustment screws and I put the carbs back on. Boy was i a tad pi--ed off.. well live and learn..
 

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Premium Member
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1,647 Posts
Sounds like a stuck float valve.
You are on the right track. If you manage to pry the pivot pin out, be warned it can sometimes come out suddenly and go flying. It took me about 10 minutes to find mine!!! :)
I never pulled the main jet holder, I just cleaned everything out really good and then blew some compressed air through the openings. It seems to have worked as I haven't had any problems since.
I agree with Cindy in that there is a lot of gas residue in your carb bowls that needs to be cleaned. Make sure you get as much out as possible before you put it back together.
Make sure you get all the tiny cotter pins reset before you put the carbs back on as it's another carb pull if you miss any.
 

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rider
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
here's the latest:

i've disassembled and cleaned both carbs. they look good. on the second carb i worked on (at this point i don't know which is front and which is back), the main jet needle came right out with the needle holder.

few questions:

1. both of my vacuum valve diaphragms look good... no cracks in the rubber as far as i can tell. i don't know much about the whole 'vacuum' process... i do know that when my bike would occasionally stall, removing the vacuum tube from the carbs to the petcock would immediately solve the problem and the bike would start right up. even though these vacuum valve diaphragms look good, should i suspect them as part of this problem?

2. i'm going to reassemble tomorrow. should i use any gasket sealer/maker for the o-rings (or any other part?)? clymer's didn't specify as far as i saw.

3. related to the reassembly... loctite on the screws?

4. here's a stupid one: those tiny cotter pins... where can i get those? clymer's says throw the old ones away. can i get these at autozone or a hardware store? i might have also lost one or two of those little plastic washers and i definitely need to replace at least two of the screws for the float valve cover. are these all standard things i can get at home depot?

5. jim: you mentioned you thought my problem sounded like a stuck float valve. that's the little pendulum thing which ends in a cone attached to the float? upon examination, those look pretty good to me. no wear as far as i can see. is there something specific i should be looking at? anything i should do now that i have the carbs disassembled?

6. the rubber hosing attached to the carbs... thinking i should probably replace this... is this just standard tubing or would i have to order this from ron ayers?

thanks again everyone... really appreciate the help.
 
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