I don't know but why buy a used one for a total cost of $ 105.40 when you can buy the best new for $ 126.95?Will this regulator work for our bike?
I don't see how. The stator is all output AC. The R/R is the same thing as the R/R used in alternators. The R/R's only purpose is to convert AC to DC and regulate the voltage coming off the stator. So, when you find AC coming off a car alternator, the generator portion is still good, just the R/R died.I agree 100%. Installed this on mine with new stator. I'm wondering if the OEM RR was overworking the stator causing it to fail prematurely (25k mi.) Guess I'll find out.
When checking voltages from the stator wires, the voltmeter must be in AC.You might be able to google the part number and eventually dig up a pinout diagram. Or just find what bike it goes on, then dig up the wiring diagram.
The R/R also has to dispose of the excess current when there is any, that's why they get hot, they're shunting the excess to ground. The stock R/R is a shunt type, and then there's the MOSFET type. MOSFET = Metal-Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor
The way Jack at Roadstercycle explained it to me, we're better off using most of the available current, leaving just enough to keep the battery happy. If we switch to all LEDs or other power saving methods, the R/R has to handle a lot more leftover current because the stator runs at full output all the time. Finding that balance makes a voltmeter on the dash pretty handy.
Hmm, AC voltage out of the stator... How about an AC voltage headlight? I'm sure an electrical guru could come up with a way to wire that. Or just a pair of AC volt deer lights for when there's no oncoming traffic. :q